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Fuel tank screws

s10sakota

Well Known Member
I'm curious why the manual states to only put screws in about every other hole when I install the tanks?

Yes I know that later they will all be installed! But why only every other one for now?

Do the tanks come back off later for some reason?
 
I'm glad you asked, because I've wondered the same! The manual makes NO mention of the fuel tanks again. When I read to put in only half the screws, I sort of expect that later on the manual will say to put in the other half! I wonder if there are any RVs flying out there with only half the fuel tank screws installed (esp. the hidden z-bracket ones)? ;-)

I can only guess that sometimes the tanks need to be removed again, perhaps when fitting the wings to the fuselage? However I've talked to some quick build builders who told me they never had to remove the tanks.

I still have only half the screws installed, but I keep thinking I'll go ahead and install the remaining ones, since it doesn't take long anyway, and if I ever do need to remove the tanks again, it'll probably be years from now.
 
I wondered about that too. I'm sealing up my tanks right now, and unless someone has an idea why not, my plan is to install them for good with all the fasteners once they pass the leak test.
Any reason not to?
 
I can't recall needed to remove the tanks after they were installed on the wings. I would just put all of the screws in now.
 
Yep I wondered the same and just went ahead and installed them all. I also torqued and torque-sealed the tank bolts just so that's one less thing to forget.
 
I did not put that many screws in while the wings were in the stands.
I think there were a couple in the spar caps, a couple in the gap plate and a couple of bolts in the inboard Z bracket.

In regards to not needing to take the tanks back off, I think that depends on a couple of things.

1) The wings fit in my pickup truck bed with no tanks. Moving was easier.

2) I think final wing assy to the fuselage is easier with no tanks.

3) Running the wires next to the spar at assy was easier because I didn't have to bend over the tank.

4) It allows the opportunity to put a gallon of gas in the tank and do the "shake..shake..shake" and drain the fuel to rinse the tank interiors.
See the link below for a picture of what came out of my "clean" tanks.
Gas tank crud
 
Cruds-ville!

I just closed up my tanks and was thinking of doing the same, too, to get any residuals out of the tanks. Now, I'm convinced! I'm doing a tank cleaning before mounting to the spar.
 
I just got done with this also. It was a real head scratcher. I think Vans uses a little jedi mind tricks sometimes on us.
Notice the sub-heading: INSTALLING THE LEADING EDGE here he refers to the whole leading edge assembly, tanks and all. The heading on pp7-8 is RIVETING THE WING SKINS Down below installing the leading edge is riveting the top skins. Paragraph 1 states, "With the outboard leading edge riveted in place and the tanks installed it's time to rivet the top main skins".

I think the writer must have taken a coffee break in between the two sub sections and then got back to work. :D

Before I started the skins, I torqued and screwed everything down. It's ready for the paint shop. Now on to the skins....
 
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