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Fuel tank removal....

kentb

kentb

Well Known Member
Well, I am going to bite the bullet and remove my right fuel tank to find the slow seep and repair it. Even though it is the most perfect weather for flying here in Oregon now.

So the plan is the use a razor blade to cut the paint along the skin line. Not sure how best to cut the paint at the screws. Looks like it is required to remove the push tube before trying to get to the bolts.

Any advise out there for the removal process?

Should I remove the bolts first and then the screws?

What type of wrench is needed to remove the tank bolts with the wing on the plane?

Kent
 
Kent I helped a friend remove his tank on a -4, here's what we did:

Used an X-Acto knife to cut the paint around the tank edges.

Used a "paint cutter" to cut the paint around the screws.

Removed the fuel from the tank, and disconnected the lines and sender wires.

Removed all of the bolts holding the tank to the spar.

Removed all the screws except one, in the center on top just to insure the tank wouldn't fall, then the two of us held the tank to the spar and removed the last screw.

Hmmmm, the tank still didn't want to come off! Just the dimpes in the countersink's held the tank tight! Also discovered later that some proseal was bonding the tank skin to the spar.

After a lot, and I mean lot of tuging, pulling, beating with a fist and "talking" to it the tank was off. We feared the paint would be a disaster after all that but it held up quite well.

I hope this helps.

Larry
 
Last edited:
tank removal

I've done this several times on my 9A for various reasons. The hardest part in my mind is removing the bolts through the spar. A small air ratchet tool will really, really help ($20 at harbor freight) and if you have a small air hose and/or swivel fitting on the end that will help too. Try to have a couple of small socket extensions (1", 2") on hand and a universal joint. You might also want to remove the bolt holding the outboard aileron pushrod in place so you can move it out of the way a bit.

I didn't have any issues with paint around the screws, but I asked the painter to slightly back out the screws before painting.

The tank won't fall off. (as long as you've removed the fuel first!) You'll have to pull it off, but don't forget the furthest inboard bolts that (on the 9A at least) are screwed in from the front of the spar, not the back.
 
Kent, I know I'm preaching to the choir, but be careful around an empty fuel tanks. You have a bomb (with vapors inside) waiting for an ignition source. Purge it with positive air pressure, don't use a shop vac and suck it out, the electric sparks from the motor will ruin your day, and your tank.

Just a heads up.
 
Thank you....

Larry, I'll do the purge. Yes I hadn't thought of that.

Clay, I'll head over to HF at lunch today.

Larry, I'll use your process as a guide.

I don't want to wait for shipping time from Avery, so I guess that I will just use the Xacto knife to cut the paint around the screws.

Kent
 
And if or when

you've pulled all of your hair out chasing minor weeps and you send it off to Evan Johnson for repair, make sure you have lots of insurance. UPS destroyed the crate my tank was in and trashed the tank. There was no record of any damage in their system even though the tank was delivered taped to the lid of the crate. The rest of the crate is unaccounted for.
I'm still trying to get the insurance money out of them after 4 months.
 
Understood Steve...

shamer said:
you've pulled all of your hair out chasing minor weeps and you send it off to Evan Johnson for repair, make sure you have lots of insurance. UPS destroyed the crate my tank was in and trashed the tank. There was no record of any damage in their system even though the tank was delivered taped to the lid of the crate. The rest of the crate is unaccounted for.
I'm still trying to get the insurance money out of them after 4 months.
Click to expand...

Don't use UPS.

Kent
 
For future referance.

The removal of the tank was not that bad.
I used the H.F. small air ratchet more most of the bolts, but also found my box end ratchet worked well on some that I could position the air ratchet on.
Removed all the screws (cut paint with single sided razor blade) and the bolt. The tank still stayed on, but a little prying and wiggling it came off.

Kent
 
lrfrey said:
Kent I helped a friend remove his tank on a -4, here's what we did:



Removed all of the bolts holding the tank to the spar.



I hope this helps.

Larry
Click to expand...

Huh?

What bolts, RV4 has only screws attaching the tank to the spar, none from the back ala RV9 style.
 
Watch out!

Be very careful cutting the paint with a blade. I've seen several transport category planes get major sections of their skins replaced because someone used a blade to remove aerodynamic sealer and at the same time scored the aluminum underneath creating a stress riser. Everyone now uses plastic scrapers.
 
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