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Fuel Tank question

cjmccorkle

I'm New Here
Howdy everyone. New RV (project) owner here. I pulled the fuel tanks yesterday with the intention of sending them off to weep no more but I have read some forums saying new tanks would be the way to go. there are quite a few leaks on the bottom, and a few spots where it looks like the previous owner just thumbed some proseal on the outside to plug up some of the rivets. The primary leak is on the fuel sump. Also, what is the lighter colored material? it doesnt appear to be slosh? I would greatly appreciate some advice.

-Clayton
 

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Yep - from the photos it seems there have been many attempts to fix leaks - unsuccessfully based on your post. Time to build new tanks.

Carl
 
Yep - from the photos it seems there have been many attempts to fix leaks - unsuccessfully based on your post. Time to build new tanks.

Carl
Agree. I think it would be easier to build new than clean all that mess of sealant up. Also not sure if it’s just the photo, but the skins look pretty rough too.
 
Howdy everyone. New RV (project) owner here. I pulled the fuel tanks yesterday with the intention of sending them off to weep no more but I have read some forums saying new tanks would be the way to go. there are quite a few leaks on the bottom, and a few spots where it looks like the previous owner just thumbed some proseal on the outside to plug up some of the rivets. The primary leak is on the fuel sump. Also, what is the lighter colored material? it doesnt appear to be slosh? I would greatly appreciate some advice.

-Clayton
You didn’t mention what RV model you’re working on, but from the double row of mounting screws visible in your photo, it is probably an RV – 4 or RV – 6.
It is not impossible, but fitting a new tank to a 4 or 6 is a much bigger undertaking than it is to all of the later models.
 
You didn’t mention what RV model you’re working on, but from the double row of mounting screws visible in your photo, it is probably an RV – 4 or RV – 6.
It is not impossible, but fitting a new tank to a 4 or 6 is a much bigger undertaking than it is to all of the later models.
Yep, fix them -----will simply bolt back on. Fitting new ones will make you throw tools around the shop.
 
I agree with the above posts about fitting new tanks to a -4 or -6 being quite the challenge.......but wow......those are really ugly tanks......

I would build new tanks then cut the aft flanges off the old tank skins and use them as drill templates for the new tanks (or make new templates with plexi). There are also some unacceptable edge distance problems on the old tank we can see.
 
You didn’t mention what RV model you’re working on, but from the double row of mounting screws visible in your photo, it is probably an RV – 4 or RV – 6.
It is not impossible, but fitting a new tank to a 4 or 6 is a much bigger undertaking than it is to all of the later models.
**IF** you have the Phlogiston spar in a 6 **AND** if you get lucky, with some trimming and persuading, you can get it to work but as "rvbuilder2002" said, it is an undertaking.

BACKGROUND: During a practice back in the Team AeroDynamix days, "Speedy" used my plane (we had the ONLY RV6 side-by-sides and his plane was down for some reason). While inverted in a formation loop, a big bird tried to take him out and did great damage to one of my tanks. (He just kept flying his position and landed safely.) Busted rivets, banged up badly, not repairable without removing and replacing skins. So I purchased a tank that was already drilled with the hope that it would work. I can tell you, I got LUCKY! Took some work, but I was able to get it to fit.

So, if you "just" have leaks (and it is a 4 or a 6), someone who is good at it can make the leaks go away and as mentioned elsewhere, you can "bolt on and go". Now, if you have a later model, you can just buy a new tank and fly by the end of the day! :):)
 
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