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Fuel Tank Leak

W

Walt Shipley

Active Member
Well I finally got around to the dreaded task of doing the latest fuel tank mod, and my worst fears were confirmed - I have a leak. It's down in the bottom, inboard front side of the tank.

I wish I could just order some pro seal and smear some over the leak on the outside, but I'm thinking the best way to do it is to remove the fuel sender plate and the mechanical gauge so I can see what I'm doing, and spread some more pro seal over the leak area.

Any one have a similar situation, and how did you fix it?

Walt
 
Walt Shipley said:
I wish I could just order some pro seal and smear some over the leak on the outside,

Any one have a similar situation, and how did you fix it?

Walt
Click to expand...

I did exactly that but... the leak was caused by a rivet shank missing on the top skin. Checked the sealing after repair, worked OK. Not sure I would have done that if the leak had been on the bottom skin...
 
Leak

First time building the RV12 tank I had a similar leak. Could not bear the thought of opening up the tank. Searched this forum and found a way to fix it with diluted pro seal. Do not remember the exact process. It is in there somewhere. The process worked - no more leak.

With the benefit of lots of experience redoing tanks in the past year (removing slosh and doing multiple mods on my RV6 tanks last summer, followed by the tank mods on my RV12 last winter) I have found that for me, doing it is not as bad as thinking about it.

So, my opinion now is that I would remove the sender and add proseal from the inside (a sharpened putty knife is your friend in removing that sender plate).
 
I own a Cherokee 180. I have heard the Cherokee tanks are notorious for developing leaks. Fortunately mine is an exception ( at least since 1985!). If you ask an A&P he might be able to tell you how they slosh them to stop leaks.
 
Open up the front port and fix it properly -- it is not a big deal. You might want to carefully drill out the flawed rivet and reinstall the correct sealed-end rivet applying sealant as you go.

There are many suggested tips on the VAF web site for fixing spot leaks such as applying a slight suction within the tank and drawing in thinned sealant or instant glue into the leaking spot, etc. -- some seem to work on certain types of leaks. I would avoid any sloshing -- it seems to be more problem than it is worth.
 
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Here's another data point to consider. I built a steel refueling tank to go inside the bed of my truck so I can refuel my -12 from the local gas station. My welding skills are not what they used to be 40 years ago when I was a pipeline welder and I had a few leaks along the top edges. I smeared the outside edges with Proseal that I had left over from building the -12 fuel tank and it sealed the leaks up like a champ. They have held up well too. We won't even mention the ethanol in the fuel. :eek:

I suspect you would be just fine slathering some up on the outside if you wanted too. Not the neatest fix and if it were me, I'd just take the cover off and fix it from the inside because it's very easy to do. However, you could probably get away with it on the outside and it would seal just fine given the proper prep. Just my opinion.

Ditto what David said on the slosh. DO NOT slosh your tank. Just search the archives for "slosh".
 
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I read somewhere about one of the Loctites, can't recall which one, that could wick its way in and seal a minor leak. May be worth doing a search.
 
Paul LeDoux said:
Green Loctite is good to seal leaking rivits from the outside.
Paul
1200495:)
Click to expand...

I might try the green locktite. I have a tube of pro seal coming from ACS, but I could try the locktite and do a leak check, and return the pro seal if it works.

The leak is not around a rivet, but in the extreme corner of the tank at the front left inboard side where the fuel lines are. It's a very tiny leak, so this might do the trick. Worth trying. I probably did too good a job removing the old pro seal in order to install the doublers and then failed to smear enough goop into the corner.

MANY THANKS TO ALL RESPONSES. YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!
 
RFSchaller said:
I own a Cherokee 180. I have heard the Cherokee tanks are notorious for developing leaks. Fortunately mine is an exception ( at least since 1985!). If you ask an A&P he might be able to tell you how they slosh them to stop leaks.
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For leaking PA28 tanks, Hartwig is the place to send them for overhaul. Never "slosh" them, as that's only temporary and will ultimately result in bigger headaches down the road. A proper resealing job is well worth the expense and they'll come back better than new.
 
Corner fuel tank leaks

Corner leaks on the RV12 fuel tank. Had good success in fixing several corner leaks by fabricating a piece of .025 aluminum into a three cornered (for lack of a better word) cap to fit over the corner. I fitted it over any rivet heads which provided for a 1/8 inch gap between the "cap" and the tank itself. After a vigorous sanding and cleaning of the tank skin and the "cap" I attached the caps on top of a generous layer of pro seal. Let it set for about a week, leak checked the tank, re installed the tank and have been flying for 12 months without any problem. I did not drill any new holes in the tank, no new rivets, no attempt to open the tank for fear of introducing additional leak points. I have had good luck with this fix, you might consider using it.
Paul Johnson 270 hrs. on 177PP and going strong.
 
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