What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Fuel Selector Lever/Plate/Indicator

JackinMichigan

JackinMichigan

Well Known Member
I have a late 2012 RV-10 kit.

I have installed the stock Van's fuel selector valve.

I really like the fancy indicator plate and red selector pointer and I called Van's and they said it would work with the stock valve.

It doesn't, and I can't figure out how to make it fit with out extensive modifications. My stock configuration has a spring loaded pointer that has to be lifted to turn, with a positive stop with a pin that goes into a hole in a small plate for all 4 positions. (which I like by the way)

I called Vans tech support and the guy said he is unfamiliar with that stock Vans valve selector. The design must have changed.

Has anybody else encountered this. The Vans tech guy said just send it back and make your own fancy indicator plate, which I plan on doing if somebody else doesn't have a simpler answer....
 
Now I'm confused. The stock handle design may have changed but my kit was delivered in 2010 and the stock selector didn't include a lift-and-turn feature. I replaced it with the Andair selector which does have that feature (available from Van's catalog but you also want the extension, so I ordered direct from Andair). In any case, this is what some RV-10 builders have been doing; replacing what comes in the kit with the Andair unit. You can search for that to find plenty of discussion in the VAF forums.

My initial install of the valve.
It was quite some time after that before I got far enough to fit the extension and mount for the indicator; it's in the third picture in this entry.
Sorry I don't have a picture of the final installation yet.
 
It changed. Mine has the lift feature which is a flat, square alum piece about a inch on a side and has a cloverleaf shaped pattern on the inside that you rivet onto the top of the fwd tunnel cover over the selector handle shaft hole. The cloverleaf doohicky provides the detents for a screw sticking out of the handle to ride in.

So the problem using the stock indicator plate is the pre-drilled hole is just a bit larger than the handle shaft (maybe 1/2" or or so) but much smaller than what's required to clear the detent doohicky. My own plan is to simply enlarge the hole in the indicator plate to make it fit. Shouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Thanks for the replies

I don't know when things changed but I have the "cloverleaf" plate as described by Auburntsts and I want to keep it.

So, I figure that I can cut out the center of the indicator plate to clear the little "cloverleaf" plate, and paint the Vans pointer a nice red. Should look good.

By the way, can someone tell me the advantage of using the Andair valve? My Vans valve is installed in the tunnel (along with wires, insulation, stick controls) and I have no intention of getting in there and replacing it.
 
Fuel Selector Plate

I wanted to use the Vans valve because it has a third port that I intend to use for an aux ferry tank. So, I drew up a simple design for my own plate with the Aux position marked and the 4 indent holes machined right into the plate. Sent it off to Front Panel Express and had it made from anodized plate for about $60 total. Works and looks even better than I expected.
 
Here is what I did. I made a decal and printed it on clear semi-gloss adhesive backed paper. I sure like the idea of using Front Panel Express.

IMG_2662.jpg
 
Wow, looks great!

Bill.Peyton.. That's a neat installation, so now I have no problem keeping the Vans pointer. Do you have the Aerosport center arm rest console? If you do, I would like the dimension where to cut the valve hole. I don't have my instrument panel yet.

Paddy.. any chance I could get a picture of your plate? I have no pride, I copy other peoples things...
 
Bob straightened my out by pointing out that it wasn't the valve that had changed, it was the lever. Since I had ditched the lever along with the valve, I hadn't even paid attention to how it worked; I guess I thought it was the same simple lever as in my -6A.

Anyway, let me address the valve itself. The original brass valve was notorious for sticking and being difficult to operate (anecdotal evidence via Matronics and VAF, not my own experience). The current kit valve is, as I understand, improved with some nylon bits inside. It's what I have in the RV-6A and I've had no problems with it. However, for the RV-10 I wanted to do better.

Andy's valves are a work of art; precisely machined, available in several configurations, and the connections are configurable as well by style and size. And the detent mechanism is nice; lift a button to unlock. But, and I will be the first to admit, you are paying a lot for mostly looks. It's partly worse because of the shipping, but the cost of making these machined beauties is naturally going to be higher than the cast bronze valves.

So if you already have the Van's valve and lever installed, I'd say leave it alone. Otherwise, it's a personal decision. I don't regret buying the Andair valve but I can't really say I needed it.
 
Jack,
I do have the Aerosport console. Just mount the selector per the plans! and when you do receive the console, just cut the hole in the appropriate spot.
Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top