fuel gauges, dynon, vans

[allbee]

I have the Dynon D180. I currently have things hooked up to the Vans gauges, which I feel are incredably accurate. Dispite what others might think. Mine are accurate from 15gals on down. Now I would like to put my Dynon system into use. I have the variable pickup in the tanks from vans. I wish I would have known about the issues of parrallel of the vans gauges and the Dynon when I built the tanks. I would have put capacitive sensors for the Dynon in the tanks. Oh well, I can't go back on it now. So, I have this problem of what to do.

Should I:

Put a switch in and have it toggle between the Dynon and vans gauges when I want to check supply against each other.

Or, is there a capacitive sensors I can install in the tank from outside with the wing root covers removed that I can purchase and install for the Dynon.

Right now I'm trying to get a handle on the fuel flow, not sure if it is right. On take off I have about 12gal an hour rate and at 23square I'm burning about 9.2gal an hour, lot of times I'm running 23rpm-25 at about 10.5, seems high, I usually put in 8gal an hour at fill up. I have the xp360 fuel injection, plasmaIII, cc prop hartzell. I have all wheel pants except wheel covers on the mains.

 

[Radomir]

You should be able to hook up those SW sensors to Dynon.. you would have to disconnect the other gauges though.. but I dont' see a need to go capacitance ones.. (IIRC you actually would need a converter w/ capacitance senders.. whereas you hook these up directly)..

 

[jthocker]

Steve,
I have the Dynon D180 with resistive floats, if you think your vans gauges are accurate the Dynon is at least as good and probably alot better.
Regards,

 

[allbee]

Steve,
I have the Dynon D180 with resistive floats, if you think your vans gauges are accurate the Dynon is at least as good and probably alot better.
Regards,

which brings me back to the original thought. I want to be able to trust the dynon, it needs to have a track record in my airplane, so I guess a double throw up or down switch until the dynon proves itself. than I can get rid of the other gauges.

Now, the duty of calibrating the gauges on the dynon. They say to do 2 gal at a time. Would it be possible to empty a tank and calibrate that one at the pump with 2gal intervals and than go back to the pump another day and do the other one. In other words can you calibrate each tank at different times.

 

[DennisRhodes]

Fuel Guage

I have the SW resistive senders and use a Dynon 180 . The calabritation was done 1 gallon at a time. Buy you enough 100LL in containers and use a one gallon tupperware container and go for it. Be sure the airframe is in the flight level config. The file generated by the calibration method can be saved and reloaded if needed as per Dynon instructions. That worked very well. The accuracy of the sender and dynon seems to be right on . As you probably already know the float resistive guages will top out at about 15 gallons when installed in the RV9 tanks. The capacity being 18 per side. You'll never see anymore change on the Dynon when the float tops out, whenever that is. But from that piont down will be rock solid accurate.

 

[SMO]

On the D10.....

Would it be possible to empty a tank and calibrate that one at the pump with 2gal intervals and than go back to the pump another day and do the other one. In other words can you calibrate each tank at different times.

....the answer to this question is YES, you can can calibrate each tank independently and do it at different times. One thing to watch is to be sure you have the correct wires hooked up to the correct tanks, at least on the D10 this is not a software setting.

 

[allbee]

....the answer to this question is YES, you can can calibrate each tank independently and do it at different times. One thing to watch is to be sure you have the correct wires hooked up to the correct tanks, at least on the D10 this is not a software setting.

one last question along this line, how about leaving one tank on dynon and one on the vans guage until things are squared out and working good. Than do the other at my convenience? Oh if you are wondering, I fly the plane every day. Hopelessly addicted

 

[jthocker]

I've personally witnessed/assisted with the calibration and and subsequent flawless operation of the Dynon fuel gauges in 5 aircraft in the last year. All used the Standard float senders. In addition to that, the Dynon fuel flows, once calibrated with 4 or 5, 25 gal. fill ups are accurate to .5 gals.

Steve, you spent big bucks on the D180, trust it!

Regards,

 

[N941WR]

I've personally witnessed/assisted with the calibration and and subsequent flawless operation of the Dynon fuel gauges in 5 aircraft in the last year. All used the Standard float senders. In addition to that, the Dynon fuel flows, once calibrated with 4 or 5, 25 gal. fill ups are accurate to .5 gals.

Steve, you spent big bucks on the D180, trust it!

Regards,

Funny, I was thinking about starting a post regarding my D10 EMS with the Dynon Capacitance senders.

My tanks were calibrated in 2 gallon increments and they are amazingly accurate.

Much better accuracy that anything I have ever seen.

Regarding using the D180 with another set of fuel gauges and resistance senders. A friend tried to do the same and gave up. It came down to using one set of gauges only.

 

[DennisRhodes]

Another thought

After you callibrate the Dynon 180 with your 2 gallon increments. Drain it all out and check your accuracy by refilling in 2 gallon increments and see how well the Dynon reads it back. I think you will like the accuracy. Also remember you can set the yellow and red arc on the round icon at any level point you want. I notice that in a bank that the redistribution of fuel on each side still adds up to the total for what its worth!

 

[PCHunt]

Say What?

....... I notice that in a bank that the redistribution of fuel on each side still adds up to the total for what its worth! .......

What kind of turns are you doing that "redistribute" fuel. Not sure I know what you are describing In a coordinated turn, the fuel should stay put. If you had a glass of water on the instrument panel, the water would stay level in the glass.

Fuel should be "redistributed" only if you mash on the rudder and skid around the turn.

 

[N941WR]

One warning about the Dynon fuel gauge.

If you set the audio alarm to go off when the fuel gets into the red zone, you are not going to like it.

The reason being is that the audio alarm comes on each time fuel hits the red level. Meaning that as the fuel sloshes around, moving the gauge in and out of the red, the alarm goes off. Reseting the alarm only works, if the fuel level were to say in the red but it doesn't.

This is most annoying and Dynon has it on its list of improvements.

In my case, I have set it to give a red warning bar on the bottom of the screen but no audio when a tank gets below five gallons.

 

[allbee]

Ok, I'm set for using the dynon system. But, I need to calibrate. Now, I need the plane in level flight, so I need to level according to the pitch that I set in the dynon as level flight. so to do this I need 21 gals in my hanger set to put in the wing of choice, how to do this. I can't go to the fuel depot. I have to put the plane in level flight, or do I. I have a nose wheel, it's close but not close enough for level flight. So that leaves me with how to do this. Should I have lets say 5 gals in the right tank, I'm starting with that one. Fill the left one. Have my 5 gal steel tanks and my 5 gal 4wheeler fill tank with long plastic hose. Empty the right tank into the steel tanks until empty. Start my calibration on the right tank, 2 gal at a time, than when I run out of fuel, remove the fuel check on the left tank and fill an empty steel tank and continue filling using my 4wheeler tank that has graduates of 1 gal for accuracy for the 2 gal fill.

Now, comes another question that I asked. Is the fuel flow sensor critical on using the dynon system. If so, I need to comfirm that the flow meter is accurate before doing anything. I said previously that I'm showing a burn rate of 9.2 when 23square constant speed prop xp360 fuel injection and plasmaIII. I was told to fill up and fly for an hour and go back for fuel and check on the dynon for fuel used and what I put in. I guess I should do that first.

 

[N941WR]

Steve,

I still haven't set the Dynon fuel flow. But that is because I have found the gauges so accurate.

To calibrate your tanks, you do want to level the plane and drain the tanks.

When you start the calibration process the Dynon will tell you how many gallons to put in at a time. With the -9 it was two gallons at a time. I "calibrated" two gallon milk jugs so I knew I was putting in exactly two gallons every time.

After telling the Dynon you are going to calibrate a tank (either left or right) it will tell you to make sure it is empty and press the button. Then it will tell you to add some fuel (two gallons for me, as I said) and press the button after the fuel stops sloshing around. You repeat this until that tank is full.

Then you do the same thing for the other tank.

The good news is the setting is not lost when you do software upgrades on the Dynon.

 

[allbee]

I had another thought, if the vans gauge in the tank tops out at 15gals, than after that I can just hit the button for the 2 gal calibrate and do the same thing as add the fuel, is that true. In other words, you are just calibrating for the first 15gals.

Also, the fuel flow has nothing to do with the tank calibration, is that true.

Meaning, if the fuel flow is wrong, I can always fix that after the calibration.

 

[N941WR]

I had another thought, if the vans gauge in the tank tops out at 15gals, than after that I can just hit the button for the 2 gal calibrate and do the same thing as add the fuel, is that true. In other words, you are just calibrating for the first 15gals.

No, you need to do it from empty tanks. You will never know if you have 15 or 14 or 16 gallons in there.

I know, it is a pain but do it right and do it once, and you will be very happy with the results.

lso, the fuel flow has nothing to do with the tank calibration, is that true.

Meaning, if the fuel flow is wrong, I can always fix that after the calibration.

Correct, they are different "systems", they should match but they don't have to. In fact, mine don't. The fuel flow always tells me I have less fuel than I have. Also, if you forget to reset the fuel flow when toping the tanks, it will show that you are out of fuel or have negative fuel.

While that is going on, your fuel gauges will show you have full tanks. They are a good cross reference to one another.

 

[jthocker]

Steve,
Somehow, get your tanks to empty, haul your plane over to the fuel pumps, get a buddy to man the fuel hose and begin the procedure in the Dynon install manual. Follow the on screen instructions. Reasonably level is close enough, do what you can by inflating/deflating tires if you must, but that will be close enough.

For the fuel flow, again follow the Dynon procedure. Start with full tanks, burn approx. 20 gals, note what the Dynon says is remaining, subtract that number from full capacity(42?), write that number in 1 column then fill the tank and write down the number of gals it took to fill up. Put that number in a second column. Repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times. Total each column up, then divide one by the other(I forget which way), then multiply that number times your original fuel flow sensor number(around 30,000). That will be your new fuel flow sensor number. If you keep an accurate fuel used/remaining log against fuel actually added you will have an extremely accurate fuel system.

I'm thinking that you might be confused and think the Dynon fuel level gauges have something to do with the Dynon fuel remaining number. THEY DO NOT! Your fuel level sensors relate only to the Dynon TANK levels. Any other fuel number anywhere on your Dynon relates to the fuel flow sensor.

These things work great, and will give you a confidence in your fuel remaining that you've probably never had before.
Good luck,

 

[allbee]

No, you need to do it from empty tanks. You will never know if you have 15 or 14 or 16 gallons in there.

I know, it is a pain but do it right and do it once, and you will be very happy with the results.


Correct, they are different "systems", they should match but they don't have to. In fact, mine don't. The fuel flow always tells me I have less fuel than I have. Also, if you forget to reset the fuel flow when toping the tanks, it will show that you are out of fuel or have negative fuel.

While that is going on, your fuel gauges will show you have full tanks. They are a good cross reference to one another.

what I was trying to say in this, if you start with empty tanks, and start putting in fuel, after 15gals the sensor is topped out, so you end up with just adding fuel with no increase in the sensor. In theory you can stop putting in fuel after 15gals and just hit the add 2 gals of fuel until you get to full.

 

[allbee]

Steve,
Somehow, get your tanks to empty, haul your plane over to the fuel pumps, get a buddy to man the fuel hose and begin the procedure in the Dynon install manual. Follow the on screen instructions. Reasonably level is close enough, do what you can by inflating/deflating tires if you must, but that will be close enough.

For the fuel flow, again follow the Dynon procedure. Start with full tanks, burn approx. 20 gals, note what the Dynon says is remaining, subtract that number from full capacity(42?), write that number in 1 column then fill the tank and write down the number of gals it took to fill up. Put that number in a second column. Repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times. Total each column up, then divide one by the other(I forget which way), then multiply that number times your original fuel flow sensor number(around 30,000). That will be your new fuel flow sensor number. If you keep an accurate fuel used/remaining log against fuel actually added you will have an extremely accurate fuel system.

I'm thinking that you might be confused and think the Dynon fuel level gauges have something to do with the Dynon fuel remaining number. THEY DO NOT! Your fuel level sensors relate only to the Dynon TANK levels. Any other fuel number anywhere on your Dynon relates to the fuel flow sensor.

These things work great, and will give you a confidence in your fuel remaining that you've probably never had before.
Good luck,

Yes, that's it, there is a way to calibrate the fuel flow. thanks.

 

[SMO]

In theory you can stop putting in fuel after 15gals and just hit the add 2 gals of fuel until you get to full.

Sounds right to me. If the resistance value of the sensor quits changing after 15 gallons, then there is no point in carefully adding a calibrated amount of fuel after that point as the Dynon will just tell you the sensor did not change. Instead of hitting "add" you might as well hit "full" on the Dynon after you have added the 15 gallons. Of course your fuel gauge is only effective from 15 gallons on down.

 

[N941WR]

Sounds right to me. If the resistance value of the sensor quits changing after 15 gallons, then there is no point in carefully adding a calibrated amount of fuel after that point as the Dynon will just tell you the sensor did not change. Instead of hitting "add" you might as well hit "full" on the Dynon after you have added the 15 gallons. Of course your fuel gauge is only effective from 15 gallons on down.

What Mark said is correct.

Sorry, I forgot that those things stop reading after 15 gallons.

 

[uk_figs]

Individual aural alert control

I wasnt aware that you could individualy turn of the aural alerts per sensor with the Dynon (I have the D100, D120 and HS 34), how is this done? I have the aural alerts output of the HS34 wired into the intercom which sums the D100 and D120 aural alerts. Is the setting through the D120 or the D100/HS34?
Thanks

 

[N941WR]

I wasnt aware that you could individualy turn of the aural alerts per sensor with the Dynon (I have the D100, D120 and HS 34), how is this done? I have the aural alerts output of the HS34 wired into the intercom which sums the D100 and D120 aural alerts. Is the setting through the D120 or the D100/HS34?
Thanks

The fuel levels are in the EMS D120. Check the setups, it is in there at the same place where you set the green, yellow, and red fuel limits.