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Front gear leg fairing

cholladay

Well Known Member
After installing the front gear leg fairing I noticed I have to apply considerably more right rudder. I have adjusted it twice, which has not helped. I removed it again last night for the last time. I will either build a new one or I may just go without a front gear leg fairing. I see no speed increase with it installed, which may be a product of the increased rudder input.
I was curious if anyone else has had this problem?
and
Has anyone decided to just leave it off?

I purchased Geoff Colmes rudder trim system that I could use, but with the gear leg fairing off I really do not need to apply any rudder at cruise speeds.
 
Chad,
I would not just leave the front gear leg fairing off.
A slightly misaligned fairing on the nose gear can have a considerable effect on "rudder trim". This brings me to a point you might consider.
Some builders have successfully used the alignement of the nose gear fairing to counteract the need for a wedge on the rudder to trim for cruise flight.
It appears that your fairing is misaligned far enough where you actually need more trim not less.
Since this fairing is an inexpensive part and not a whole lot of work, I would consider fitting a new one.
The 10 even looks faster with all the fairings on ;)
 
Chad,
I agree with Ernst. If your existing fairing is causing you issues, use it to determine how far off you are by drilling new holes and experimenting. The nose wheel fairing really adds a lot to the looks and it does add some speed. I know when I added it on after flying for the first 10 hours, I noticed a slight improvement. I never did try to quantify it, but there was a difference. It should be extremely easy to fill the old holes, especially if it is not yet painted. I suspect if you need right rudder you would want to move the trailing edge of the fairing to the left. BTW, I noticed the other day while I was flying along and everything was trimmed and the ball was centered, the plane did an un-coordinated steep turn when I engaged the autopilot. Immediately following this incedent the ball moved to the right by one half ball width. I spoke with Vans after I could not find anything wrong. They Ken told me it was the nose wheel preload had loosened and the nose wheel and fairing had moved in the turn, but had enough tension not to return to neutral. I tightened the nose wheel back to spec and the problem was solved.
 
I have this exact issue after adding the nose gear leg fairing to my RV-14a about 15 hours into phase 1 - I have to hold a fair amount of right rudder to keep the ball centered. I adjusted the fit of the fairing once and it maybe improved a little. Curious to hear how the original poster resolved the issue?
 
I have this exact issue after adding the nose gear leg fairing to my RV-14a about 15 hours into phase 1 - I have to hold a fair amount of right rudder to keep the ball centered. I adjusted the fit of the fairing once and it maybe improved a little. Curious to hear how the original poster resolved the issue?
You need to follow the std string method for aligning that fairing. Fortunately that is MUCH easier for the nose leg fairing. Just moving it around will not get you there. How did you adjust it?
 
I've been using laser levels for all the alignment of the wheelpants and gear leg fairings. Once I have the airplane level side to side and in flight attitude (pitch) I put a laser level on the floor near the rear of the plane. It lasers a vertical plane that I align with the centerline of the fuselage, and then I set the trailing edge of the nose gear leg fairing to be in this plane.

When I flew it and found I needed considerable right rudder to keep the ball centered (and did not need to before adding that fairing) i adjusted the trailing edge slightly (3/16") to the left. That maybe improved the issue by 20% but doesn't seem like it's going to get me all the way there even I made a drastic adjustment.

Next I'm planning to re-check the castering tension on the nosewheel, as some people on this forum have mentioned that it can sometimes get loose enough that the nose gear can get slightly skewed during flight.
 
Next I'm planning to re-check the castering tension on the nosewheel, as some people on this forum have mentioned that it can sometimes get loose enough that the nose gear can get slightly skewed during flight.
That will definately put the ball out if too loose and wheel allowed to move in the breeze. But seems oddly coincidental that it got loose at the same time as putting on leg fairing. Thaty is often a gradual loosening with the ball progressively moving out over time. Though it can happen quickly the first time it gets loose, which is mot that many hours into testing. Did you notice the change when putting on just the nose fairing or all three?

Are you sure the laser is level in all planes? If the vertical is off just a bit, the laser plane would also be off. Great that the laser hits fuse center, but need to also be sure the laser base is directly below that center line to insure a true 90* from level. Can drop a plumb bob from the center line to confirm
 
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That will definately put the ball out if too loose and wheel allowed to move in the breeze. But seems oddly coincidental that it got loose at the same time as putting on leg fairing. Thaty is often a gradual loosening with the ball progressively moving out over time. Though it can happen quickly the first time it gets loose, which is mot that many hours into testing. Did you notice the change when putting on just the nose fairing or all three?

Are you sure the laser is level in all planes? If the vertical is off just a bit, the laser plane would also be off. Great that the laser hits fuse center, but need to also be sure the laser base is directly below that center line to insure a true 90* from level. Can drop a plumb bob from the center line to confirm
I noticed it after I added just the nose gear leg fairing. I had been flying with all 3 wheel pants installed but none of the gear leg fairings. Then I added the nose gear leg fairing and it popped up.

I like the idea of using a plumb bob from centerline to check and make sure laser is actually centered - thanks for that suggestion.
 
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