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Free! Drill bushing for drilling elevator horns.

Brantel

Well Known Member
Our good friend Chad Jensen was so kind as to mail me his drill bushing used for drilling the elevator horns to the center flange bearing on the HS.

To purchase this bushing and get it delivered cost about $15 from McMasterCarr and when you only need it once for about 5 minutes, thats expensive.

I used it and now it has been decided to mail this thing to another needy builder.

If you are at a point where you need this bushing and you are willing to pass it on to another builder who needs it etc. and so on, please reply and I will mail it to you free of charge.

Continental US only and do not ask for it if you don't need it right now or soon or will not be willing to offer it up to another builder.

Please make sure whoever you mail it too is also willing to pass it on.

Thanks,
 
I'm Game

If you are at a point where you need this bushing and you are willing to pass it on to another builder who needs it etc. and so on, please reply and I will mail it to you free of charge.

Continental US only and do not ask for it if you don't need it right now or soon or will not be willing to offer it up to another builder.

Please make sure whoever you mail it too is also willing to pass it on.

Brian,

I will need it in the next week or two and will happily comply with the offer. PM sent w/address.

Thanks to you and Chad.

George
 
need it today can you show me a picture of it

I need one of these today, can you show me a picture and I can make my own ?


Danny..
 
Courtesy of Dan Checkoway, here is a good picture.

20030109_drill_bushing.jpg
 
thanks

thanks, I don't know if I can make that.. but I get the idea, the last time I used a
wood spacer and clamped it with vise grips, small hole 1st then moved up to
the next size hole making sure of the edge distance.. maybe I will do it that
way again today.. thanks for posting the picture..


Danny..
 
thanks, I don't know if I can make that.. but I get the idea, the last time I used a
wood spacer and clamped it with vise grips, small hole 1st then moved up to
the next size hole making sure of the edge distance.. maybe I will do it that
way again today.


Sounds like you are needing to drill the push/pull tube hole. For that you need somthing similar to what you are describing. This bushing is for drilling the hole for the center hinge bearing.
 
I'll get on the list for this thing - I'm finished with the tail (minus glass work) but haven't done this yet.
 
A straight piece of 1/4" alum. fuel vent line tubing will serve nicely as a bushing for those of you who can't wait to get on the list. I like the idea of passing things on free to the next builder though. Pretty cool.
 
In the RV-10 they supplied a steel tube for this purpose. We used it a couple days ago. Is this the only kit to include the bushing or is this something new?
 
I use a lot 1/4" stainless high pressure tubing for systems I install, it's .250 OD and .180 ID - slightly larger than the Van's-recommended .125 drill size, but it will work, just use the closest-fitting bit you've got. You're only using this for the pilot hole, and then enlarging for the bolt, the bushing serves to put the pilot hole in the correct location. I've got a pile of scraps (anything shorter than about 2 feet is scrap for me) that I can cut into some bushings and send out if someone wants one. Better yet, I'll be in the Dallas area this evening and all day tomorrow and I'll have some on my pickup - PM me with a phone number and I'll call you.
 
Last edited:
Don't Do What I Did!

I'm done with the traveling drill bushing, thanks Chad and Brian. I've got a message out to the person who is supposed to get it next to confirm and get his address, I will then forward it on.

In the end, I could've used a piece of scrap tubing and been fine, but it is nice to use "the right tool for the job" every now and then :)

Right tool or not, I screwed up with it. Hopefully some of you can go to school on me.

I used the 13/16" measurements to get good elevator travel, had nice alignment on the horn to stabilizer edge, and went for it. My left elevator ended up with the final bolt hole so close to the torque tube that I couldn't get a bolt into it or a nut onto it. Van's said no to using a clevis pin instead of a bolt, and while other builders have successfully ground down bolt heads, I gutted up and simply ground off the powder coating around it and had the mis-drilled hole welded closed.

$20, 20 minutes including travel time, and a full plate of humble pie.

My new hole is great, I've got some powder coat to replace with Van's touch-up paint, and my elevator bolts are two more turns out and much closer to the 7/8" from the spar.

All in all not a big deal, but something for you look out for.

George
 
Lost in Shipment

I am sad to report the traveling drill bushing was lost in shipment. It was shipped exactly like I would have shipped it, but the envelop failed in the harsh postal system and the drill bushing (which was double-wrapped inside) fell out of the envelop along the way. Hopefully there will be others to volunteer to start another rotation.
 
I love this thread!

I was looking for guidance on drilling out the elevator horns when I found this thread. I am very sad to hear of the demise of the traveling drill bushing.

Determined not to pay $15 for a bushing from McMasterCarr, I found a decent, cheap solution. Home Depot sells a #6x1/4"x1" aluminum spacer that can be had for under $1. The O.D. needs to be ground down ever so slightly to fit inside the bearing and there is a little play with the #30 drill bit (#31 would fit perfect) but it piloted a nice hole and protected the bearing. The finished hole lined the elevators up perfectly.

It's no McMasterCarr bushing, but it works just fine. If you don't feel like driving to Home Depot give me your information and I'll mail you mine...just promise to pass it on!

Jeff
 
A straight piece of 1/4" alum. fuel vent line tubing will serve nicely as a bushing for those of you who can't wait to get on the list. I like the idea of passing things on free to the next builder though. Pretty cool.


What I used was the plastic line we use for the fuel vent line. Fits right in the bushing and then you go to the step drills and find the one that fits nice and snug inside. than you drill away. Afterwards you open it to the correct size. worked great for me.
 
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