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Flop Tubes

flyboy96

Member
Hi guys, I'm getting to the place where I have to start thinking about my fuel tanks and am wondering what length flop dubes I should use. The other thing that has me wondering is the drawings for the flop tubes show some little anti snag guides but the drawings are really unclear on the one that goes on the access panel. Any pictures floating around of these.

Thanks
Ted
 
I guess you could make your own, but why not just order the pre-made flop tube from Van's.

Here's a picture for you... more can be found on this page or in the Tanks section of my site (link below).
060802_002.jpg
 
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This what you are referring to with 'anti snag guides'?

6-18-06-006w.jpg


Just buy the flop tubes from Van's like Brad said. No sense in going thru all that work when $38 will buy one...:)
 
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Here is a picture of the 'anti-hangup' brace on the inside of the access hole:

t_assembly_124.JPG


and another shot:

t_assembly_127.JPG


Here is the other 'anti-hangup' brace that you need to fabricate. A small brace that spans from the aft stiffener to the second inboard rib (only cleco'd in this picture). This brace is meant to keep the fuel pickup tube (flop tube) from interfering with the trap door.

t_assembly_69.JPG
 
Thanks guys, those pics are exactly what I was looking for. As for the length of the flop tubes the reason I was asking was because Spruce offers a few different lengths and I didn't want to come up too short (again), didn't evin think about Vans for the part. Sorry I didn't reply faster I was without the net all weekend.

Ted
 
Tank trap door hinge pin

As solutions was found so I'm hijacking this thread with another related question.

There is this small trap door in 2nd tank rib. Did you replaced the pin with steel one for this too? :confused: It's just one of keep in mind things to do later or get the steel pin now and close it inside the hinge (I don't have plans to make it removable).
 
Here's another question for ya, if the end ribs on the tanks are bent is it ok to flute them or does it make it impossible to seal them whith the fluting notches.
 
I fluted the tank end ribs and had no problem sealing them... ProSeal sticks to anything and is great at filling any voids.

Jason
 
Flute Away!

Yes, flute them, the sealant will fill the gaps, you just need to be sure to make a nice fillet inside the tank, and cover all the notches on the exterior.

Suggestion... put a piece of electrical tape (or similar) around the inside surface of outboard edge of the tank skins (where they rest on the splice plate). After you have riveted the outboard ribs and sealed all the notches you can peel the tape off to leave a nice clean edge of sealant, and so no excess sealant interferes with the tanks ability to rest firmly on the splice plate.

060901_005.jpg
 
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