Flatten a dimple mistake? OK, a HUGE mistake.

[DaveWelch]

OK, for those of us who occasionally fail to READ THE DIRECTIONS 3 times before doing anything...I dimpled both sides of the Baggage Deck for 1100-08 nutplates vs. just the right side as called out (21-02 Step 1) "Dimple the 5 #19 holes in 1224R Baggage Deck" The quantity 5 should have been a clue.

Page 21-03, Step 6 is where one so foolish discovers the error after the structure has been thoroughly riveted. Dissassembly is NOT an option.

Squeezing the dimples flat results in some "oil-canning" on the 1206H-Left flanges but will work out OK I think.

Now, how in the H@#$ do I flatten the dimples inside on the 1206 Bulkhead flange which are not accessible with a squeezer? At this point the dimple is in overlaping layers (flange and baggage floor). Argggh!!

Any ideas? Can I stick with the dimples and 1100-08 nutplates and still keep the plans compliance?

Any advice and knowledgeable opinions will be appreciated.

Dave.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

The best thing to do would leave the dimples and install the correct K1100 nutplates. If you flatten #8 dimples, it will not be a pretty sight.

I don't think any inspector would make a big deal about it.

 

[RV10Man]

Ditto Scott. Just let the inspector do his job. Don't offer more than he ask for.

Marshall Alexander

 

[Bruce Russell]

I did the same thing. My solution was to install the K-1100 nutplates and have flush screws on both sides. The inspector never knew the difference and I certainly did not volunteer that info.

 

[DaveWelch]

I did the same thing. My solution was to install the K-1100 nutplates and have flush screws on both sides. The inspector never knew the difference and I certainly did not volunteer that info.

Thanks a bunch guys! That was my guess also, but wanted some company.
Why in the world would Van's have spec'd the non-countersunk screws for these 5 locations as opposed to being consistent and simple?

Before proceeding further, I'm going to look forward in the instructions for a clue but not expecting to find much.

Anyway, appreciate knowing that I'm not the only one to have goofed this one, and also your recommendations and experience with the inspectors re this trivial matters.

All the best and clear skies!
Dave.

 

[DaveWelch]

The best thing to do would leave the dimples and install the correct K1100 nutplates. If you flatten #8 dimples, it will not be a pretty sight.

I don't think any inspector would make a big deal about it.

Very true! I tried to flatten one and the surrounding area looked like an emerging shiny zit. Going to re-dimple and move on.

Appreciate it,

Dave.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

Why in the world would Van's have spec'd the non-countersunk screws for these 5 locations as opposed to being consistent and simple?

Simple....
To help keep it simple.

The only reason they are flush on the other side is for clearance for the fuel tank.

It requires extra work to dimple all of he related parts when installing a flush screw. After a while the extra work adds up.
It is the same reason that flush screws were not used for the seat pans and many other areas...reduce the work load if there is no real benefit.