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Flap/Aileron fit

H

hector

Member
I have finally got around to fitting my ailerons and flaps.
I set up the ailerons useing the jig holes in the main ribs and ailerons, set the brackets as per the plans (1 5/8" below the centerline of jig lines) but this makes the aileron sit about 1/4" below the flap.
I contacted the factory and they said that the aileron was fine, but I had to move the flap. This would mean useing 1/4" packing strip to set the flap below the level of the lower wing skin. It would also mean a 1/4" gap between the top of the flap and the top skin.
I do remember reading something about this somewhere, but cannot find it.
Any advice apreciated.
Cheers
Bill Markey.
RV4 4434
Darwin, Australia.
 
Just did this

Just finished my last flap install yesterday. I have about a 1/4" gap between the flap and the top of the wing skin, but this gap is filled by the hinge. I adjusted the aileron pushrob with the included jig to establish neutral on the aileron and then adjusted the flap to make both even on the trailing edge, get your 3/16" gap between aileron and flap and clamp your flap hinge in prep for drilling. Just make sure you have all the shims and washers on the aileron to ensure the gap between aileron and flap doesnt close less than 3/16". I ended up with 3/16 on one wing and 1/4 gap on the other wing and perfectly even training edge.
 
Thanks for the reply.
The gap between the aileron and flap is fine (1/4") it is that the aileron sits perfectly parrallel, but 1/4" lower than the flap in the neutral position. the other weird thing is that if I was to move the aileron up to be perfectly in line with the flap, there would be hardly any clearance with the gap seal.
I would like to post some photos, but... A. I am a technologicle Dodo and B. Wife of mine has gone on holidays with the 3 dependants and taken the camera with her. Hense the ability to work on the plane.
Cheers
Bill.


just doing more reserch, I have dwg 13a, full size, that did not come as as part of the build manual. It calls out the aileron as also being for the -7 -8. the ailerons also came pre=punched, the only part of the kit that is.
Dwg 13a also shows some subtle differences to dwg 14. the parts callout is a mix of -4 -7 -8 parts, the aileron gap seal is different, and if you line up the depiction of the way the aileron sits, it is shown sitting higher on dwg 13a than 14. But the most interesting thing, is that on dwg 13a, the jig holes in the aileron do not line up with the jig hole shown in the main rib.
Could it be that there has been a small change in the design of the aileron to make it generic, that has not been completly incorporated into the plans for the -4?
And of corse the biggest question, apperance aside, does it matter if my aileron sits 1/4" lower, as long as left and right are the same?
 
Last edited:
Bill, I have been reading your stuff trying to work out if I can help. I find it quite hard to understand the issue. Pictures would really help.

I am not sure if it will help you but all the pictures I have published of the wings are here.

When you talk about parts sitting high/low you are talking about the front, not the trailing edge, right?

The flap height is dictated by the hinge since it is attached to both parts without any packing. My aileron I often think looks as though it sits slightly low if viewed from underneath, though it is fine from above.

If you are still in trouble I do have a couple of other pictures which I could email if that helps, but I need your email address. You can contact me at [email protected]

PS I would check with the factory that you have the correct parts.
 
Thanks for that.
If I draw a line through the two tooling (jig) holes on the main ribs and two jig holes on the leading edge ribs,as you do to establish the chord of the wing for setting up the wing jig, then continue that line toward the trailing edge of the aileron, and set the two jig holes in the aileron to that line,then the entire length (chord) of the aileron sits 1/4" below the line (chord) of the flap. think above and below as if you were sitting in the aeroplane, on its wheels. Fore and aft(toward the leading or trailing edge,) it is pefect. span wise (in or outboard) is also fine. (even 1/4" gap between the outboard edge of the flap and the inboard end of the aileron. If (as I probably will do) I get new A407 and A406 brackets and drill the holes 1/4" lower down the brackets, then the aileron will be in line with the flap, all in the neutral position. As the aileron came pre-punched, I can only asume that the holes in the aileron spar that the two mount brackets attach to are acurate. However, the line I drew through the jig holes in the leading and main ribs, when continued towards the trailing edge, will now be parralel to, but 1/4" below the two jig holes on the aileron.
Hope that helps to describe it.
Thanks for everyones help.
Bill.
 
Nope...

.....Bill, you don't want your ailerons lower than the bottom of the wing at all. We just fixed my buddy's -4 since the original builder had attached the aileron attach brackets too low on the rear spar and they were visibly lower than the underside skin when viewed from the front of the airplane and also when we tried a long straight edge on the underside of the wing. We removed the brackets and had to cut 1/4" off the top corners so they wouldn't interfere with the upper lip of the rear spar.

His ailerons were very heavy and slow compared to what they are now...light and fast...and...oh...he picked up 8 MPH!!

On my factory QB -6A, the ailerons almost touch the gap seal at the top...there might be 1/16" clearance.

Regards,
 
hector said:
......I can only asume that the holes in the aileron spar that the two mount brackets attach to are acurate. However, the line I drew through the jig holes in the leading and main ribs, when continued towards the trailing edge, will now be parralel to, but 1/4" below the two jig holes on the aileron.
Hope that helps to describe it.
Thanks for everyones help.
Bill.
Click to expand...

I think I have it now. I am suspicious that the pre drilled parts are a hinderance not a help. I think new brackets is certainly the way to go.
 
Yea, I think new brackets (406 and 407) will be the way to go. Just strange how those jig holes dont line up.
Cheers,
Bill.
 
Fair in the surfaces...

hector said:
Thanks for that.
If I draw a line through the two tooling (jig) holes on the main ribs and two jig holes on the leading edge ribs,as you do to establish the chord of the wing for setting up the wing jig, then continue that line toward the trailing edge of the aileron, and set the two jig holes in the aileron to that line,then the entire length (chord) of the aileron sits 1/4" below the line (chord) of the flap. think above and below as if you were sitting in the aeroplane, on its wheels. Fore and aft(toward the leading or trailing edge,) it is pefect. span wise (in or outboard) is also fine. (even 1/4" gap between the outboard edge of the flap and the inboard end of the aileron. If (as I probably will do) I get new A407 and A406 brackets and drill the holes 1/4" lower down the brackets, then the aileron will be in line with the flap, all in the neutral position. As the aileron came pre-punched, I can only asume that the holes in the aileron spar that the two mount brackets attach to are acurate. However, the line I drew through the jig holes in the leading and main ribs, when continued towards the trailing edge, will now be parralel to, but 1/4" below the two jig holes on the aileron.
Hope that helps to describe it.
Thanks for everyones help.
Bill.
Click to expand...

Bill,

I think the early -6 and -4 kits were a "little out of whack" in this area.

I just checked my tooling holes two days ago for another visiting -6A builder and my aileron tooling holes do line up with the rear rib tooling hole, but a straight line extended from these three holes misses the forward rib tooling hole quite visibly.

I lined my ailerons and flaps up by using fairly stiff flexible strips - wood or metal yard sticks (metre sticks?) - to fair the contours of the upper and lower surfaces with the surface of the flaps/ailerons. This maintains the airfoil design at zero flap/aileron deflection quite well, which is the overall goal. The template drawn on the shipping crate lid was of little use.

I also mounted the A406 and A407 brackets with #40 clecoes first. Adjustments can be made up and down by elongating the holes in both the spar and bracket as they get drilled out to first #30, and then to #12. This allows quite a measure of vertical adjustment.

I think the later kits are much better in the area.
 
Have now used the two brackets from the other wing and drilled them to set the aileron streamlined with the wing and flap. looks o.k and I am happy with it. Two jig holes in the aileron sit 1/4" above jig holes in the main/nose ribs.
By the time I put the wing tip on, no-one will no. Except the few thousand that read this forum. New brackets on order. Footy on telly, Beer in fridge.
Thank you to all that have thought this over and helped me out.
Cheers
Bill.
 
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