What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

First Rivet!

Jeff R

Well Known Member
My DRDT-2 dimpler arrived yesterday but family obligations prevented me from setting it up then. I set it up this evening and practiced some dimpling on some scrap aluminum. I was beginning to get a bit intimidated. What dies to use? How to place them in the dimpler? How to adjust them? How deep or shallow do I go and how will I know for sure when I have the depth adjusted just right?

By playing around for a bit, I seemed to find a setting where a flush rivet seemed to fit just right. I tried to over dimple and under dimple to see how it looked just to make sure I had it set just right. Well, I hope it is set just right!

My wife, also an engineer who doesn't mind getting her hands dirty, accepted my challenge to learn to air drill, and I had her cleco together the first part of Van's tool box practice kit. She was doing that while I was setting up the dimpler and practicing some riveting with the rivet gun (I got out my pneumatic squeezer, but I will need some more time to figure out how to use it.) Well, two of my first 6 rivets on the scrap aluminum looked pretty good and 2 were pretty bad, but I thought I was getting the hang of things and the wife had the sides of the tool kit dimpled. Yes, I let her dimple. At first she hated it but after getting the hang of it, she started having fun. We couldn't get to the holes in the lower inside corners on the dimpler, but I said we could pop rivet those (I didn't but a hand riveter - not sure if I should or should not now). I sanded down the dimples on the corresponding holes/dimples in side skin that we couldn?t' dimple. I handed her my tungsten bucking bar and we verbally went through the riveting sequence. I put in a rivet and she pressed up the bucking bar pushing out the rivet. Uh, honey, that is really nice, but wait for me but the rivet gun in place and just lightly hold the bar centered on the rivet then tell me when you are ready. I picked up the rivet off the floor, placed it back in the hole, set the rivet gun in place the she brings over the bucking bar and says OK and I let the gun rip out and, wow, that gave a pretty good rivet! The next we got a bit crooked, but not too bad. On one, I lost control of the rivet gun and it did a little dance across the face of side like a sad depression in the skin. Man, do I NOT want to do that on my airplane skin! But we find that a good 6 solid hits on the fun seems to do a god job. Knowing women can make the best riveters, I asked her to switch jobs with me. Her first rivet went in ok, but on the next try, so lost control of the gun and, like me, we have another big dent. we laughed and kept going and neither off us lost control like that again - so far.

Things I have learned is that I need a bigger air compressor, for one. I just have a small one. I also have found I should probably ask for some help to teach me how to properly set up the dimpler (even though I think I know, it will be a bit of a pain to switch between different dies for different thickness of metal). I would also like to learn how to set up the pneumatic squeezer.

Well, I can start dimpling the empennage sections, after which I can start priming. I can get in more riveting practice by finishing the tool kit before I go to the airplane to rivet. I think I might call up a Tech Counselor to see he could show me how to set things up quickly and easily. My shop, too, has been more optimized for woodworking, and maybe he can some suggestion for making it a better metal shop.

I ordered a bunch more clecos from Browns today (36 cents each if you buy a hundred). I had received a 100 of both the silver and copper clecos, more that what Van's recommends for the empennage kit, but I think you need a lot more silver clecos.

Certainly, reading about riveting takes on a different meaning when you actually do it. I do love this DRDT-2 dimpler - it takes very little effort and seemed simple to set up. It just won't get down into tight corners. If the pneumatic squeezers work for that, great. I just have to figure out how to do it.

So, tonight, I have experienced joy at breaking out a new tool and getting it to work; apprehension for doing something I have never done before and wondering if what you have done is good enough to risk your life on; and intimidation at having a tool and not really knowing how to use it.

It is neat that the wife actually enjoys some of this. With so many rivets, I hope I can get to the point where I can say "Woman, go dimple and rivet that skin", and she will, where I can go off and do the important things, like trying to figure out what engine and instruments to use.

Do the Tech Counselors really like coming out to help? I have two in the area, but I don't like to impose on anyone. But, I would like to have someone with knowledge look at what we have done and bless things off (or tell us how to do it right), and show how to use all my tools properly. What is the proper etiquette to follow? Do we offer to pay their gas? Do we have pastries or cold drinks for them? I would certainly want to express my appreciation for their help.

Thanks,
Jeff R.
Merritt Island
 
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step

Jeff,
Your first riveting experience sounds great. A few things to consider:
1. Get two pieces of aluminum sheet (about 6" x 6" would work fine). Then drill out about 25 holes, using clecoes to hold the sheets together. Debur and then dimple everything. Now, you have a good practice piece. Put the pieces, clecoed together, into a vise to hold them vertical. Drive rivets into each hole and then drill them out. You will need practice for both riveting and drilling them out, trust me.
2. Get a swivel flush set for your rivet gun (it has a little rubber collar around it. It will make it much easier to set flush rivets without the smileys.
3. You ask if a tech counselor would like to pay you a visit. Does a wild bear defecate in the deciduous undergrowth? Is the Pope German? These guys live to come out and help you in your shop.
4. It all seems hard now, but in a few weeks, you will be riveting like a pro. You will always set a bad rivet now and then. Just get the mind set that it is no big deal to drill it out (sometimes more than once) and slam another little booger in there.
5. Before you know it, you will be plying the skies in your little hot rod and wondering what the big mystery was.
Happy building,
 
Jeff

I am in Melbourne; I am on my fuselage now for my 9A if you would like any help or second opinion. Shoot me an email mizzo at cfl.rr.com

Mike
 
Dimpling...you want the dies to bottom out on each other. There is no such thing as too deep...you're looking for good compression force and a crisply coined dimple.
 
I would echo Dan?s comment. You want to produce a nice crisp thin ring around your dimples. An under-dimple will not have a clean transition from the surface to the dimple and will instead lie in a shallow valley. When setting up the DRDT, and with nothing between the dies, be sure the dies bottom out before the tool stop contacts and prevents further handle movement. This ?preload? assures a good dimple and the DRDT will then produce consistent results every time
 
You are right tha you can't overdimple. Thanks for pointing that out.

But, today I was actually dimpling on the aircraft parts, as opposed to just a tool box and some scrap metal, and the DRDT was doing great. I am so glad I got this thing - I can't imagine having to pick up a hammer and wack the thing a few times, and repeat that well over 10,000 times. This is sooooo easy to do.

Anyway, the DRDT can't dimple into those tight corners. So, I broke out my pneumatic squeezer. Well, the instructions, what there are, assumes you know what you are doing. I don't. I pulled out the dimpling dies from the dimpler to install into the squeezer. Well, how the heck do they fit in? I finally found I could turn some adjustment on the piston thing and managed to get the dies in, then readjust it back. I powered it up and it worked really nice. It ought to be nice to use for riveting.

But, even it couldn't fit into all the little spaces, like at the end of the ribs where two flanges intersect. How are these difficult-to-reach holes dimpled? Do you countersink them? Do I need to spend yet another $150 to buy a no-hole yoke?

Speaking of countersinking, I also broke out my microstop countersink and it work really good, too. I countersunk a few holes on the thicker metal spar and the rivets set nice and flush.

Tomorrow, I hope to prime the VS and rudder parts and maybe even start riveting it together.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Last edited:
Start

Jeff:

You have no idea how lucky you are to have your wife helping. Talk about quality time together-----just think what it will be like traveling together when you finish an airplane that you built together!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Only going to California

Wonderful Jeff,
There are gonna be smilies and pimples too down the road. Just ignore the small stuff. I always love to qoute John Harmon of the Harmon Rocket fame......."Just build the d*** airplane...you're only going to California, not the moon ;) "

Regards,
Pierre
 
Jeff R said:
But, even it couldn't fit into all the little spaces, like at the end of the ribs where two flanges intersect. How are these difficult-to-reach holes dimpled? Do you countersink them? Do I need to spend yet another $150 to buy a no-hole yoke?
You can buy a "vise grip dimpler" from Avery (and probably several other suppliers). It'll get down into those tight spots at the trailing edge of ribs.

Worst case, take a little (say 1.5" x 4" or so) piece of 3/16" thick steel and drill & countersink a hole near the corner. Clamp it in your vise. It will act as your female dimple die. Now take the dimpling shank from your C-frame with a male dimple die in it, hold the part up to the steel, feed the pilot of the male dimple die through the part and into the steel, and whack it! You've got a "last resort" dimpling setup for those very tight spots. If you don't have a C-frame (i.e. if you only have a DRDT-2), you can still probably buy the shaft separately.
 
IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PERFECT!

I learned a new phrase yesterday from a guy building a deck. He said, "It's not like it's a deer stand. It doesn't have to be perfect!"
 
I am glad it doesn't have to be perfect!!

I was assembling the VS and managed to make a few dings on the skin while riveting. Oh, well, I suppose it can be corrected at the finishing stage.

But, today was productive. This morning, I primed the various components for the VS, then spent the rest of day riveting and, well, figuring out how to use the pneumatic squeezer for riveting and figuring out a bunch of other things along the way (i.e. how to drill out mis-driven rivets, what rivet sets to use, why offset rivet sets are handy, etc).

One thing I wonder about is priming after riveting. I had scratched the primer with the bucking bar in several areas, which I touched up, but I wondered if the rivets should be primed. I mean, after the riveting, should we spray/brush the rivets on each side?

But, yeah, the wife came out and helped me buck rivets. She is an expert in Quality, so her calibrated eye came in handy.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
 
Jeff, I'm not going to comment on painting after you rivet as I didn't do it simply because some of the places you just can't get to after they are riveted together.

Add some duck tape to your bucking bar, that will help keeping you from scratching things with it.

Don't worry about the dent's you will get better. Also, you can fill them with this stuff from Aircraft Spruce: "80000-328 AERODYNAMIC DENT FILLER $32.600". The nice part about using it is that it has aluminum in it so it expands and contracts at the same rate as the airplane.

BTW, congrats on driving your first rivet!
 
Thanks, Bill. I was just wondering about the priming the rivets prior to them becoming inaccessible. It is a bit of a pain to do and I have no idea about the corrosion possibilities of the rivets compared to the rest of the primed structure, but it seems to make sense to do since we are taking such great pains to prime even Alcad. I was dabbing some primer using a brush. For some areas, a spray can would be easier.

I am using the Webster tungsten bar which is polished on all sides. It is working quite well, though I haven't tried to use a more normal type of bar. My wife likes the small size (and no crude jokes about that, either). I could wrap some tape around the sides.

My muscles are a bit sore today. All the side-bending and unusual body contortions needed to buck the VS is causing my age to show! Still, I can't wait to get home tonight and finish the rear spar so I can say I completed my first structure. How many more thousands of rivets to go????
 
Pop Rivet Dimpler

Jeff,

I just got a pop-rivet dimpler set in the mail from Avery today. It's used for those tight spots when dimpling. I found out about them on Smitty's RV site, www.smittysrv.com. I didn't do a good job explaning them to you at the EAA meeting the other day, so here's a picture.

http://www.averytools.com/cart/pc-857-72-pop-rivet-dimplers.aspx

You are a bit ahead of me in the building process, but not by much. I got the #40 holes drilled on the left side of the HS and started dimpling with my DRDT-2, (a wonderful tool). I did use the whacker style C-Frame at an EAA-Workshop for sheetmetal, and I can say that my neighbors are much happier that I bought a DRDT-2, and me too.

Send me an email if you want to borrow the pop-rivet dimpler, I won't be using it until the weekend. Do you have a hand-pop-riveter?

It looks like there are a few of us RV builders in the space coast area.

John Edwards
[email protected]
(Now if I could only get my wife to help me rivet)

Grumman Traveler - KCOI
RV-9A - Slider - Empennage
 
Hi, George,

Yes, I remember and I did get those dimplers in my kit from Plane Tools. I was looking at them but didn't make the connection that I could use them for that purpose. Thanks. I did get a Pop Rivet puller from Sears over the weekend so that sounds like a good solution.

To change the subject, yesterday, when I went out to the shop (I have a detached workshop, which includes an 8 by 8 foot garage-style door), I went in through the normal door and went over and opened the big door. I stepped outside and glancing down at my feet, I see a site that can raise some hairs on the back of your neck. Not two feet away from me was a brightly colored little critter. Hmmm, "red on yellow, kill the fellow" quickly came to mind and, yeah, red on yellow it was. Yikes! Coral snake! The poor little guy was a scared - huge human towering above him and all. He hid his head under a board that was laying out on the concrete. I felt bad about what I had to do but, well, I can't have highly poisonous critters running about.

But, getting back to airplane building, I have most of the match drilling done for the tail. Once I rivet the rear VS spar on tonight, I will be able to back rivet the rudder stiffeners, as those and the skins are all primed. I also have most of the prep work done for rest of HS, so I should be outside priming again this next weekend ,then it will be mostly assembly work. I hope to finish the entire tail within a couple of weeks. My wing kit is scheduled to ship the end of July, so I may have some time in there to take a short vacation and get the shop a bit better organized and fit for metal airplane building.

Good to hear from you, John.

Jeff Rosson
 
one suggestion

Hi - I'm glad you're enjoying your first rivets. I was there 12 months ago. 2 days ago my wife said "teach me to rivet" and we've almost finished the top skins of one wing with no dings (yet)! She is awesome; I've very fortunate to have her.

One thing I will suggest that you may not have heard of is the tungsten bucking bar. I bought one after completing the tail and I wish I'd had it sooner. Mine is 1x1x2 and gets in anywhere. I find it is easy to hold in place and you don't have to tape it up because it doesn't bounce around. It was really great to buck the -4 rivets holding the ribs to the spars way inside the leading edge. I also used it in the fuel tanks with good results. It is now my default bar - only once since I've bought it did I find a case where I had to use a different one.

I got mine from Stein Air. I saw some this weekend at Cleaveland. They have a small one like mine, but the corners are sharper. They also have a flatter one (maybe 3x1x1/2) with an angled face. I bet either one would be great. Best $120 I've spent yet on tools!

Have fun,

dave
 
Back
Top