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Filler Recommendations

David Brent

Member
I've decided to paint the components as I finish them and need some advise about fillers. The empennage has some minor imperfections like smiley faces from early in the build and a few accidental dings. All are very minor. I have attempted to repair with Super Fil from ACS but am not content with the "smoothness" of the repair. I recall reading somewhere that this is a "rough filler". I don't want to use any spray can primer as it will probably be incompatible with my finish system. I'm afraid the Super Fil repair will show through when painted. I have searched this subject thoroughly and am still unsure. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
 
David
I've had good luck with the superfil. Once I get it sanded smooth, I brush a thin coat of epoxy over it & sand with 320 or finer sand paper. I'll repeat this step as necessary.
You can also mix glass beads with epoxy to make a blimish filler. Follow with coats of epoxy as mentioned above.
Now, if you're talking pinholes, that's a different thing. There is some excellent info in the fiberglass section of the forum. Look for info by Dan Horton, in particular.
 
You'll be amazed at how small blemishes simply "disappear" as the assembly of pieces grows into a complete airplane. Well perhaps not disappear but at least become darned hard to find.

Plus I don't like filler on metal unless absolutely necessary. It adds unnecessary weight and can be prone to cracking. Just my 2 cents.

Jim Sharkey
Rv-6
 
Every ATC we can get that actually flies an airplane is a plus for all pilots. I promise, we will not hold it against you.

More or less joking, but sometimes I am the target of complaints when I'm visiting the pilot community. I try hard to promote general aviation in my workplace and have even helped a fellow controller get his PLL recently. Believe it or not, very few controllers have actually flown in a small aircraft. I have given dozens of rides over the years and they always walk away with an enlightened view of general aviation.
 
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After about 15 years of filling sanding fairing priming and painting, I can very much vouch for all Evercoat products. Mine was painted almost 4 years ago and I can show you side by side where I used evercoat and where I used epoxy/with fillers. Epoxy resin continues to shrink, Evercoat plastic filler, never. I use "Rage" for the big fills and "finishing compound" for a quick skim coat to be feathered in.

Lots of good info to be found here, severe talent onboard here.
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
 
I have attempted to repair with Super Fil from ACS but am not content with the "smoothness" of the repair. I recall reading somewhere that this is a "rough filler".

A really small blemish like a smiley can be filled with almost anything. An epoxy base filler will have higher bond strength, but cures slowly. Polyester base filler can be sanded much sooner (a little as 15 minutes), which is why polyester dominates the body shop business.

Roughness, as I think it concerns you, is a function of the filler solids choice, not resin choice. The two major ingredients are microballoons and talc, with a long list of minor players. Micro is tiny hollow spheres, so grain size is larger than talc. Among thick, prepared fillers, a high percentage of micro means less weight. A higher percentage of talc yields a filler which feathers a little better.

One roughness concern is self-inflicted; it stems from mixing technique. Micro is usually poured into a cup of epoxy and mixed with a stick. Stirring tends to fold air into the mix. Prepared fillers are better mixed on a board using a "wipe and scrape" method with a squeegee to avoid entrained air. Because they are thick, prepared fillers mixed by stirring can hold a lot of air. Later sanding opens all the voids and the surface can look like the moon.

Nothing wrong with SuperFil, other than being a very expensive way to apply dry micro. Mixing your own is far less costly and you can control everything, notably viscosity and filler material. In this particular application (a very small dent in an aluminum surface) I'd probably use wet micro (just barely runs off the mixing stick) over sanded and cleaned aluminum. The lower viscosity lets the air escape, the higher resin percentage feathers well, and I get the better adhesion of epoxy.

On the other hand, if I was prepping for a paint day the next morning and discovered a missed smiley, well, rather than lose the day I'd grab the polyester glaze and fix it before heading for bed.
 
Fillers

Thanks guys for the valuable info. Being new to this phase of the build, I'm full of questions. Is "micro" West Systems 410?
 
A minor consideration about polyester;

It continues to shrink forever.

Look at older polyester cowlings and wing-tips and see the "weave" that did not show when first painted.

Also, I restored a '69 Corvette and it took much filling to cover the seams.
 
Thanks guys for the valuable info. Being new to this phase of the build, I'm full of questions. Is "micro" West Systems 410?

410 is a special filler mix designed to extract money.

Current listings at ASC:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bubbles.php

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/microlight.php

That's $9.95 for 2 ounces of 410, vs $8.90 for a pound of glass microballoons.

David, do the homework. Buy this kit, read the book three times, build the practice parts:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/practicekit.php
 
Fillers

Thanks Dan for your interest. I've read almost all of your posts and without a doubt, you are the composite expert. I'm trying to find things to do until I can afford the wing kit. An unexpected divorce, 2 daughters in college and a recent $3,500 dog surgery have gotten in the way of progress. Working on the glass tips and filling imperfections in the skin will give me something to do until then. Thanks again!
 
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