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Fiberglass tip "Tweaking"

BlackhawkSP

BlackhawkSP

Well Known Member
Hi Guys & Gals:
I'm at the point in my QB 10 of doing the fiberglass wing tips. Should I have the flaps at their full up position (where the forward edge nose of the flap is resting on the wing aft spar) and try and align the trailing edge with the flap and aileron in this slightly reflexed up position, or should I align the aileron/flap positions with the extended lines of the top and bottom surfaces of the wing and than drill/align the tips? TIA for any input.
 
Wingtips

I hung the flap and aileron temporarily. Position the flap in the reflex position, then clamp the aileron to the flap. Install the wingtip. You will find that very small deviations in wingtip position within the skin flange will cause substantial wingtip TE deviations. I ended up clamping the wingtip TE to the aileron/flap and then drilled the holes per the plans.

Wingtip TE is now within 3/32" of flap/aileron TE.

Also, I used the RV Wingtip Kit from theflightshop.com. Saw it at oshkosh last year, and it make a whole lot more sense than installing 40+ nut plates in a 1/2" wide fiberglass flange...

Check it out...
 
BlackhawkSP said:
Hi Guys & Gals:
I'm at the point in my QB 10 of doing the fiberglass wing tips. Should I have the flaps at their full up position (where the forward edge nose of the flap is resting on the wing aft spar) and try and align the trailing edge with the flap and aileron in this slightly reflexed up position, or should I align the aileron/flap positions with the extended lines of the top and bottom surfaces of the wing and than drill/align the tips? TIA for any input.
Click to expand...


Larry, everything gets aligned to the flap once you confirm that the flap is resting against the rear spar. Look carefully to ensure good contact to the rear spar as it is possible to have interference from the rolled forward edge of the flap.

Hope this helps.
 
Just that.

I found one of my tips was warped. I had to cut and re-bond the trailing edge otherwise (I assume) it would have acted as a big powerful aileron.
 
paul330 said:
I found one of my tips was warped. I had to cut and re-bond the trailing edge otherwise (I assume) it would have acted as a big powerful aileron.
Click to expand...

Oddly enough, they don't seem to do so, at least on one -8 I helped with some time back.

Question: The -10 doesn't use tooling holes in the outer rib to set aileron alignment, and thus tip alignment and flap alignment?
 
The -10 Ailerons and wing tip are aligned by completely "nesting" the flap in it's reflex position, as stated above. The ailerons are then aligned to the flaps, and the wing tips to the ailerons. I too had to split the trailing edge of one of the tips to obtain proper alignment.
 
DanH said:
Question: The -10 doesn't use tooling holes in the outer rib to set aileron alignment, and thus tip alignment and flap alignment?
Click to expand...

Dan, the -10 is so far the only model with 3 degrees of reflex. With them all the way up, you're instructed to align the ailerons with the flaps...the reverse from the 2 seaters.

Best,
 
pierre smith said:
Dan, the -10 is so far the only model with 3 degrees of reflex. With them all the way up, you're instructed to align the ailerons with the flaps...the reverse from the 2 seaters.
Click to expand...

Interesting! Thank you gentlemen.
 
check flap angle

One suggestion I would add is to nest both flaps against spar and then check angle with digital angle finder. I found one flap to be 4 deg up and other to be close to 3 deg. We set them to be equal which meant one is not against spar...then rigged as described above. The only reason I say this is because our 10 has no heavy wing and aileron trim is always in center unless fuel is unequal... Maybe we just got lucky. We also split trailing of wing tip and reglassed with them mounted and lined up with ailerons
 
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Jackm said:
One suggestion I would add is to nest both flaps against spar and then check angle with digital angle finder. I found one flap to be 4 deg up and other to be close to 3 deg. We set them to be equal which meant one is not against spar...then rigged as described above. The only reason I say this is because our 10 has no heavy wing and aeliron trim is always in center unless fuel is unequal... Maybe we just got lucky. We also split trailing of wing tip and reglassed with them mounted and lined up with aelirons
Click to expand...

Thanks to all for the good info. I noticed that on my right wing the flap doesn't quite go all the way in the nested position and touch the aft spar of the wing, like the left one does. I think I'll make sure that any upper/lower wing skins that are holding it back are coaxed apart so the flap can touch the spar and then I'll be set. It's still pretty amazing the accuracy of the various parts (with the exception of the fiberglass ones), and how well they fit together.
 
I'm assuming the physical connection of wingtip to wingskin is similar to my 7.

If so, I would suggest that you drill the mounting holes #40 first. I did. One wingtip came out perfect and the other was low at the trailing edge by 3/16 to 1/4". I was able to put some upward pressure on that wingtip trailing edge (with a rolling table and a small jack) while drilling all the mounting holes to final size (#6). That small difference was all it took to get the offending trailing edge perfectly inline with the rigged aileron.
 
Even after the wing tips are finished, I found that they don' t necessarily return to the exact same alignment when removed and reinstalled. I put the wingtip on with one screw not completely tightened on top and bottom near the spar. I then clamp the aileron to the flap and the tip to the aileron and install the screws.
 
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Pierre, I think you forgot the RV-14. I'm not positive but I do believe it has the reflex position also.
 
Ron, I wouldn't be surprised if it has reflex...I just haven't heard yet. The -10/14 airfoil is an 18% thick, compared to 15% for the two seaters, creating much more lift than necessary, so the reflex option.

Best,
 
Splitting trailing edge of RV10 wing tips

Are those who split doing it to get alignment or to shorten wingtip so TE doesn't stick out beyond TE of aileron? My wing tips are about 1/4 in longer than aileron. Is there an aerodynamic reason for this? If I cut them down I'll worry about structural integrity. Comments?
 
I had to cut the ends of my -7 tips by 1/4 inch.
I just sanded the inside of the trailing edge and poured a mixture of resin and flox in to make a fillet.
Stand the tips on end while drying.
 
Most of us are splitting the tips to align the trailing edge properly. In addition, the trailing edge should trimmed to fit flush with the aileron. Re-attach the halves with a mixture of flox and resin, or other structural adhesive and cleco the halves to hold them in position while standing them on end to keep the resin at the trailing edge.
 
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