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Fiberglass cowl to skin gap

Leave a gap as per the plans. 1/32" to 1/16" is about right. After final paint you do NOT want it to chip due to vibration and removal/installation of the top and bottom cowl pieces. BUT do not forget the front cowl/spinner backplate clearance.
 
Hi Tony,

Yes you need a small gap like the plans say. It is easy to get the right gap after you have everything attached and the cowl in place use a hacksaw blade, broken in half and the end cleaned up works best. Just run the teeth side in each of the lines that need a gap, it will take the fiberglass and not much aluminum leaving a clean even gap. It will also work well on the top to bottom cowl gap, that one needs to be straight first.

Good luck,

Vern
 
This helps, thanks for the input, guys.
I had read and reread the plans and found no instructions on the gap.

Tony
 
Looking good TonyT. I see you waited to do the cowl until you hung the Rotax, good move IMHO.

How is the gap with the spinner back plate?
 
Spinner Plate gap...

My spinner back plate gap is a uniform 3/16" and the top of the cowl should fair into the spinner.
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12-Project-N577RV/Finish-Kit/9229733_jnRJi#793002025_cmiWV-A-LB][/URL]

Thanks John, found the edge gap instruction on page 38-09. Holy cow, that is the last page and I should have read the whole section :eek:. It says the gaps "should be" after all is riveted and done. Would be a lot easier to do the gaps after the hinge holes are drilled but not riveted, seems to me.
 
Looking real good Tony. The spinner may have to be trimmed on the aft side to leave space for the cowl. You'll figure that out. ;)

Looking real good!
 
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Tony_T said:
It says the gaps "should be" after all is riveted and done. Would be a lot easier to do the gaps after the hinge holes are drilled but not riveted, seems to me.
Click to expand...

Sometimes clecos don't hold parts in position as tightly as riveting does. Since all of the edges have the hinges positioned inboard of the edges, it is very easy to mark and then make final adjustments with a sanding block after finishing.

Why do you think it would be easier before riveting on the hinges?
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Sometimes clecos don't hold parts in position as tightly as riveting does. Since all of the edges have the hinges positioned inboard of the edges, it is very easy to mark and then make final adjustments with a sanding block after finishing.

Why do you think it would be easier before riveting on the hinges?
Click to expand...

As usual, it's not a good idea to doubt the plans correctness. Actually, being a first timer, I didn't realize the hinges would be slightly inboard of the edges. I shouldn't have doubted the plans ;).

Tony
 
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