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Fastest RV-7? (For you engineers)

pierre smith

Well Known Member
Mornin' all,
I'm contemplating another RV but I really want it FAST! I also want to use a carbed or injected 180 Lyc, stock engine with maybe one high energy ignition. Can I make my own "James" type cowl from the stock one and add a plenum? How much speed is that worth?

What would you guys do with a clean sheet? Radius the lower firewall lip (ala RV8?) gap seals, fair all the little things like fuel drains etc? Where is the best payback in aerodynamic mods? Would you remove one outer panel for shorter wings? I'd appreciate fairly easy and practical cleanup tips,
Thanks in advance,
Pierre
 
pierre smith said:
Mornin' all,
I'm contemplating another RV but I really want it FAST! I also want to use a carbed or injected 180 Lyc, stock engine with maybe one high energy ignition. Can I make my own "James" type cowl from the stock one and add a plenum? How much speed is that worth?

Before you go here, ya might want to read the recent article about VNE and such in the kits we build. Sorry I can't find a reference, but it's been posted and I think its on the Vans site. Basic description is fast isn't always safe when your start to approach TAS VNE.

However, if you still are on the quest, there are probably two factors. low Cd and high HP. Neither will be cheap. I suppose we need to know what is defined as "FAST" in your book?

It seems that a 220HP IO-360/390 and then simply building straight with smooth curves would be the best approach. Then, look for things where you can influence the Cd. BTW, narrower wings will not necessarily get you more speed, they will get you less wing loading and more instability tho.

Go do the research around the RV's and Rockets that race at Reno and you'll see what people do for speed.

While everything is relative, the Hersey bar wing of the RV's isn't really designed for speed. (Check out the EVO wing on the F1's for example). It's all about Laminar flow and keeping it "attached"

Good luck, but ya might have picked the wrong airframe to build a "fast airplane"...

ps. I want credit, cuz I never said anything about what I'm building - didn't I show great restraint :).
 
Or to be technical

Ironflight said:
Keep it light, light, light...!!!

Just to pick on Paul, cuz he comes to my rescue often...

In other technical terms.... "keep the power to weight ratio - HIGH" (doesn't necessarily mean light).

Light can be bad actually depending on the air you fly in. For example, at lowweight, you'll be beat up more in rough air than at a heavier weight. Pretty sure there is a difference between "power to weight" and "wing loading". The later effects stability in less than smooth air.
 
C'mon now, 200+ mph isn't fast?

You really do have to consider the design, though. With careful attention to aerodynamics as mentioned, there is no reason why you can't end up with a 210mph RV7.
If you try to go for speeds faster than that, then you are close to getting in trouble with the airframe design.

So if "fast" to you is 220mph+, you really need to be looking at another airplane altogether.
 
Fastest RV7

Credit given, Adam.
I understand VNE and TAS relationship and redlines. I also know that the hershey-bar wing has its limits but many RVs nevertheless cruise in excess of 200 MPH on 75% or thereabouts. My -6A does 197 MPH at 7500/75% but 210 or so should not be too hard to reach. I know that all the nosegear tubes obstructing exiting air slows me down, which is why my decision to build the taildragger. Incidentally, if I fair those tubes, could I possibly see any speed increase?
Thanks guys,
Pierre
 
Bad *@# RV-7

There is no replacement for displacement, go for the IO-390. A normally aspirated 180 HP 360 won't develop even close the ponies the 390 will regardless of compression ratio.

Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
 
Bad @#%ss RV7

Allen, you are correct in that cubic inches rule (to a degree)! I used to drag race and autocross a Porsche 911 with a bunch LESS HP than other cars I outran because it was light and nimble. I do know that I can gain a bunch more speed a lot cheaper aerodynamically than I can by buying cubic inches for the RV7. A good example are the gear leg fairings and pressure recovery wheelpants. Van claims that it would take an additional 34 horsepower to gain the 16 MPH that the cheap fairings give!
Pierre
 
Build clean

Paul has a good point on building light. I firmly believe that building clean is more important as long as significant weight isn't added in the process.

My 7 appears to be quite fast for a 180 FI. I have taken many steps to make the airframe very clean and I believe this is the main reason. Parasitic drag is the enemy of speed and economy.

Some things I did. Glassed in all of the tail tips, filled the channels and cleaned the rudder trailing edge. Did a speed mod to the wing tips. Made the cowl fit the firewall as perfect as possible. The canopy fit the fuselage. Glass the intersection fairings to the fuse and cowl instead of using screws. Made the tail fairing fit perfect. Only have two exposed antennas.

These are just a few of things I did. More engine will get you more but at a cost. Building clean will help make the airframe more efficient.
 
pierre smith said:
Mornin' all,
I'm contemplating another RV but I really want it FAST! I also want to use a carbed or injected 180 Lyc, stock engine with maybe one high energy ignition. Can I make my own "James" type cowl from the stock one and add a plenum? How much speed is that worth?

What would you guys do with a clean sheet? Radius the lower firewall lip (ala RV8?) gap seals, fair all the little things like fuel drains etc? Where is the best payback in aerodynamic mods? Would you remove one outer panel for shorter wings? I'd appreciate fairly easy and practical cleanup tips,
Thanks in advance,
Pierre

Personally, if I wanted to go really fast I'd modify it into a Lancair. :)

I guess you just have to ask yourself how much work are you willing to invest. Ken Paser invested a LOT of time and gained something like 50 or 60mph over the stock configuration. If you're hellbent on gaining a few MPH in an RV (can't be a whole lot more than that because VNe looms), you should probably buy his book.
 
RVs are designed (compromised) to do all tasks well. If you want speed over utility, build a high-powered Rocket, Lancair, or jet-powered Bede.
 
If you are stuck on a RV, ditch the 7, and go for a 3-------------less weight, physical size, wetted area, induced drag etc, etc.

But then there is still the VNE stuff.

Or build a Petenpol, Baking Deuce, Breezy, etc. Fly that for a year, then get back into the -7, and all shoud be fine.

Mike
 
RV7Guy said:
Parasitic drag is the enemy of speed and economy.

Some things I did. Glassed in all of the tail tips, filled the channels and cleaned the rudder trailing edge. Did a speed mod to the wing tips. Made the cowl fit the firewall as perfect as possible. The canopy fit the fuselage. Glass the intersection fairings to the fuse and cowl instead of using screws. Made the tail fairing fit perfect. Only have two exposed antennas.

These are just a few of things I did. More engine will get you more but at a cost. Building clean will help make the airframe more efficient.


Darwing really has a great answer. Keeping it clean and light will probably get you to Vne, and that is as far as I would go without a great deal of engineering (which is clearly not going to be cost-effective). The RV's are already so far up the Speed/Power curve that the incremental parasitic drag rise with speed is surprising. Adding horsepower adds weight - both installed weight and fuel weight - and might be the answer to building a brute - but then you'll be over Vne...I've been on the pointy end of the envelope enough to know that it can be a lot of fun, but you'll never fly relaxed, cause in the back of your mind, there is always that doubt....

In the end, all good aircraft really are point designs - the final configuration is optimized for a specific conditiojn. You can vary the results a few percentage points in either direction, but to make significant changes in performance, you need to start with a clean sheet.

Paul
 
It sounds like you have a lot of easy potential

If you are already geting 197 mph and you haven't faired in the landing gear struts and wheels that is a pretty amazing airplane. From your post I couldn't tell the exact configuration of your plane but it sounds like you at least do not have the nose strut faired at all and if you have wheel fairings they are not the "pressure Recovery" style. I don't know how much I believe about the pressure recovery pants but dragging that round nose strut though the air with the top sloped back so there is a trap at the top is not a good thing. I would clean that up and then go inside the cowl and work the obvious cleanup from the inlets to the underside of the cylinders. I have and RV-6A as I believe you do currently I believe the wing design structurally is rock solid like an F-4 as compared to the RV-7 attachment but you might want to look at skin thickness on the tail feathers if you start pushing the speed a lot higher. 210 mph should be no problem with the existing design in my opinion and I intend to get it. At 75% (2450 rpm) I am currently maxing out at 199 mph with the O-360-A1A, Hartzell C/S non-blended prop, LASAR ingnition. I have pressure recovery farings on the main gear wheels but the older design on the nosegear. I made my own intersection fairings for the top and bottom of the maingear struts and the top only of the nosegear strut. The lower main intersewction fairing are part of the pants and split at the fairing split line. The upper mains are two piece with the splits on the inboard side and trailing edge (approximately a 3/4 and 1/4 distribution) with four screws into the bottom of the plane and two vertically aligned at the inboard split line and an underlying alignment tab to keep the aft piece behind the profile of the fwd piece (the trailing edge is open). My wings are 1.5 feet longer than stock for fuel purposes so there is more lift with an unknown trade off between parasitic drag and induced drag. My plane is heavy and but the only place I expect that is hurting me is in the climb. The IO-390 engine is very very interesting down the road but it is very very expensive and is disqualifies the plane from racing in the RV "360" class in the AirVenture Cup Race so I'm happy with the O-360 for now. Good luck Pierre.

P.S. I have the small vertical stab and rudder with no aerodynamic balance horn and the top of the rudder is nested inside the trailing edge of the vertical stab cap. The gap between control surfaces and the main panels is at the minimum I could get without contact.

Bob Axsom
 
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Bob,
Could you elaborate a bit on the "pressure recovery" improvement vs stock design- maybe pics or a link? Thanks.
 
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pierre smith said:
Mornin' all, I'm contemplating another RV but I really want it FAST! I also want to use a carbed or injected 180 Lyc, stock engine with maybe one high energy ignition. Can I make my own "James" type cowl from the stock one and add a plenum? How much speed is that worth?

What would you guys do with a clean sheet? Radius the lower firewall lip (ala RV8?) gap seals, fair all the little things like fuel drains etc? Where is the best payback in aerodynamic mods? Would you remove one outer panel for shorter wings? I'd appreciate fairly easy and practical cleanup tips, Thanks in advance, Pierre
Pierre from your statement you sound like you have the right ideas. Fast, as in ultimate top speed Reno racing is one thing, efficient is another. I have some general comments to help. You are going in the right direction with a James cowl, Electronic ignition, firewall lip, fairing little things. Good good good good. All a good start. Keep going, there is more, but it depends on how far you want to take it.


Buy a copy of "Speed with Economy: By Kent Paser. He took a Mustang II with a 160HP/Fixed pitch and got it to go very very fast over a decade of improvement's, applicable to RV's.

If you ever get a chance talk to Dave Anders and Tracy Saylor do it. If you get a chance crawl under and over Dave's -4 and Tracy's -6, do it. Check out Cafe Foundations report on Dave's plane.

First what RV model is fastest. I have the same plan and goal with my current RV-7. I almost bought the last RV-6 QB kit instead of the RV-7 kit. I think the -6 has some advantage over the -7, like smaller wing span, but Van's Specs do not reflect that, so I went with the RV-7. The advantage of pre-punch and fuel of the RV-7 pushed me to go w/ the -7. The RV-8 may be faster, especially if you use the after market fastback mod. RV-4 should be faster than the RV-8, but that is not reflected in Van's data. I assume you have some airframe preference for side by side, which is fine. Make what you want and as good (fast) as you can. So what is the fastest RV, the RV-3 of course.

[Comment, how dedicated are you to speed; you can take it as far as you want. I get off on making it as low drag and efficient and yes fast as I can. The end goal is not necessarily exceed 240 mph, but go as fast as I can on 180hp with out going crazy on the engine. I want a daily driver not a drag car.]


Engine is important, but dis-agree with the Cubic inches rules comment. Why? First this is a plane not a car. HP required goes up exponentially to go faster, especially above 200 mph. The key is drag reduction. 10 more HP may only get you 4 mph more speed. You mention the SJ cowl, that may be worth 8 mph or more, and that is verified. My point, drag improvements are more important than raw power. I don't want HC pistons. I do like dual EI. I don't care for FI. I have a Carb and that can be as fast. FI is more efficient, not faster. I once heard a guy say he was going to put FI on his 180hp Lyc and get 200 hp. That is a common mistake. Yes if you can get max power out of every cylinder with better fuel distribution between jugs, than yes you may get a few HP. Bottom line the key is not in the engine bay, it is only part of the picture. As I said I want to go as FAST as I can with what I have. I don't need a 210 HP engine. My 150HP RV-4 ran circles around 160hp RV's and even kept up most 180's. HP is not everything.


I would tell you the things I did to my RV-7 but than I would have to kill you. Nothing top secret, just attention to detail. Some more general suggestions:

Prop- Hartzell BA or Sensenich. No to MT for speed. Other props? Look metal props have some disadvantages, but lack of speed is NOT one of them. Metal blades are thinner and therefore faster at high speed and RPM's. Again buy a USA made Hartzell or Sensenich and you will be very happy you did. Besides the cost less than "other" brands. Fastest RV EVER? Dave Anders RV-4 at +250mph. Prop? Hartzell HC-C2YK/F7666. Questions? The new BA prop is even faster.

Engine- 180hp carb or FI with EI, 4 into 1 exhaust. HC pistons are fine, just not for me. You are talking about another 5 hp and greater chance of severe engine damage due to detonation. So you god 1-2 mph faster. I would rather find some airframe part to improve.


Fairings - Yes every thing. Aftermarket gear leg and wheel fairings and tires and any little thing that will reduce drag.

Model of RV - Does not matter, but "A" models are at a disadvantage from a speed stand point. I think Van's specs does not include dual steps either. However if you want a "A" model build that. Just know that you will loose at least a few MPH for sure.

Antennas - Don't be crazy and hide you comm. It is a pet peeve of mine. I don't want to hear a barely audible scratchy radio while I am in the pattern, "On final at --- Airport" and go WHAT(?), thinking they are at another airport, only to find they are right behind be on a straight in. S#@t. Radios are important. My RV-4 had a high speed Transponder fin, one bent whip comm and stainless cat whiskers VOR. The VOR was on belly under horizontal tail and was removable in 2 minutes. The com and transponder was at most a 1/4 to 1/3 mph penalty max at top speed. The VOR may be 1/2 mph at most. If I really wanted to race I took the VOR ant. off, and I did it. If I wanted I could do the same with the Comm and mount a temp antenna in the cockpit or use a hand-held. I am not that crazy. I took the .25 mph drag, and I am able to transmit and receive over max line of sight range for VHF (100-150 NM). Hidden com range? 5-25 miles in one direction, almost zero in others? Questions?

I could go on, but you have the right idea. I mean if you want to go fast build something else (2-place +325 mph side by side) : http://www.nemesisnxt.com/docs/Brochure_NXT_2005.pdf

George
 
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Faster RV7

Thanks George,
My concern under the cowling is about the three pieces of tubular structure that support the nosegear leg. They are all in the way of the exit air and I can streamline them to a degree if it would help much......your opinion please. (Attn: Bob Axom, not the nose gear leg).

I have Paser's book as well but he turned his exhausts straight back and I've learned that that would make the floor vibrate and increase the noise level. He also has augmenters and squeezed his exhaust to an oval shape to speed up the exiting exhaust. I'd rather do other things.
Regards,
Pierre
 
Build it and they will fly

pierre smith said:
Thanks George,
My concern under the cowling is about the three pieces of tubular structure that support the nosegear leg. They are all in the way of the exit air and I can streamline them to a degree if it would help much......your opinion please. (Attn: Bob Axom, not the nose gear leg). Regards,Pierre
I am not anti "A" model but like and only fly the TD's. However it sounds like a fun challenge to make a "A" model work better in the cowl exit area. No doubt the nose gear support is in the way. I could see some little airfoil fairings to stream line the tubes? Some fiber glass ducts and diffusers to guide and funnel the air? What about a whole sale change of the cowl with two side exits and deleted the center duct (probably better with FI cowl). I have 4 into 1 exhaust and nose gear structure makes it a pain to do that. Like I say the fun is in the challenge of making it work as best as you can. You want an "A" model than build it. G


PS
Kent did a lot of stuff, some worked great, some not so much. What I get out of the book is how to conceive, try things and measure their effect. That is the cool part of what he did. He showed little things can make a big difference. He did some major mods to his plane, cowl, fastback and so on. The exhaust work was interesting. I had mine custom made at AET, four into one with info from Cafe Foundation. If I made any major engine mod it would be a differnt CAM grind. I am not against HC pistons, but that was not the way I want to build my engine. I think a 1/2 bump is conservative. 9.5 to 1 is too sporty for me.
 
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Weight has a small impact on speed

"Keep it light" is good advice, but won't have too much impact on speed. All else being equal, it takes a big change in weight to achieve even a tiny change in speed.

Look at the speed difference between the gross and solo performance lists on Van's Web site. 400 lbs -> 1 mph.

Cheers,
Martin
 
Pressure Recovery Fairings

cobra said:
Bob,
Could you elaborate a bit on the "pressure recovery" improvement vs stock design- maybe pics or a link? Thanks.

No I can't really. I have some ideas from looking at their shape and reading the name but I would only be giving an opinion with no comparative data or experience to back it up. I think of the result of squeezing a wet piece of soap with that uniform directed tapering shape. There may be a slight concavity aft of the maximum cross section. Back a few years when the Boeing YC-14 and McDonnell Douglas YC-15 were in a high performance cargo aircraft technology development competition of sorts, Boeing used an approach where the engines were mounted above the wing. The theory was developed by a Russian as I recall and as the large special contoured flaps were deployed it was shown that the thrust from the engines would at least partially follow the contour of the flaps and be directed downward and provide some vertical thrust. The point to observe is the fast moving air followed the outside curve and turned downward instead of continuing it's straight unobstructed path. It seems to me that the observed phenomenon could be applied to a rounded shape with a following structure to convert the converging air and recover some thrust from the head on pressure of the wheel fairing being pulled through the air. The older flat sided designs would have less cross sectional but there would appear to be less potential for thrust recovery. There I said it - I don't know squat about it but that is the result of my thinking about the things.

Bob Axsom
 
right on

mgomez said:
"Keep it light" is good advice, but won't have too much
impact on speed. All else being equal, it takes a big change in weight to
achieve even a tiny change in speed.

Look at the speed difference between the gross and solo performance lists on
Van's Web site. 400 lbs -> 1 mph. Cheers, Martin
I agree 100% but
light keeps the "fast" feel and not flying like a stuffed pig Picture of Heavy RV :D

Seriously I have flown both light and heavy RV's, and a simple 150/160 HP,
wood prop, day VFR RV has a wonderful feel, no doubt close to what Van had
originally envisioned. Fly a light RV and you get a wow feeling. You can tell.

Of course weight does affect: take off distance, landing distance, stall speed
and climb rate; not to mention it will bleed more speed in higher G maneuvers.

So as you point out the advice to "keep it light is very right" (poetry purely
accidental) is good advice. :D G
 
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gmcjetpilot said:
Seriously I have flown both light and heavy RV's, and a simple 150/160 HP,
As mentioned earlier, 400 lbs and few MPHs is lost so what is the difference in case of RV(7) when it is light or not?

So if we really want to fly light plane, we should fly solo only because we can't get plane 400 lbs lighter by removing unnecessary stuff... So while building how much you can make difference to the weight really? Engine and avionics make the most difference I think and it's up to the builder what to put there but how about the rest? How much the painting does... average weight of RV7s and deviation would be nice to know.
 
Hogs Are Good

I think I have one of the heaviest RVs ever made but it is fast, has good 55 gallon endurance, it looks very good, neither one of us is into stunt work and if you live in the Fayetteville, Arkansas area you learn to love hogs or die. My friends and neighbors would like it better if it were painted red or at least had a Razorback decal on it but they appreciate the little beauty anyway.

Oh by the way, I gave a prospective RV-7 buyer a ride last week and I am told it convinced him to go ahead with the purchase. I am a little over 6ft (on days I can still stand up straight) and weigh around 185 lbs. my rider was considerably bigger and I had 45 gallons of fuel in the plane (I had just burned 10 on a test flight to Harrison, AR and back). We climbed out at 1,500 fpm and our level cruise at 2450 rpm was well over 170 kts. TAS.

Bob Axsom
 
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No its the anchor on the nose

Pirkka said:
As mentioned earlier, 400 lbs and few MPHs is lost so what is
the difference in case of RV(7) when it is light or not?

So if we really want to fly light plane, we should fly solo only because we
can't get plane 400 lbs lighter by removing unnecessary stuff... So while
building how much you can make difference to the weight really? Engine and
avionics make the most difference I think and it's up to the builder what to
put there but how about the rest? How much the painting does... average
weight of RV7s and deviation would be nice to know.

400 lbs? Top Speed?

I NEVER said light weight was a big factor in top speed. Check it out, its
written down. Doha!

I wrote: "I agree 100% but light keeps the "fast feel" and not flying
like a stuffed pig."

I was agreeing weight does not affect top speed. That is a given.
So that means weight is not important? Of course not.

Weight does affect: stall, takeoff dist, landing dist and climb rate. Agree? No
argument. Heavy weight does means less payload. Heavy weight means less
gas. Acro in your RV may mean MIN fuel with two up or a solo only acro
plane. Weight is way more critical.

However you you missed the subtle point of "fast feel". How the stick
feels in the hand, control pressures and response. Weight plays a big part. If
you are nose heavy and run out of trim on approach its a bummer. Or you
have a RV-7 with a light engine and can't fill the baggage compartment,
because you are tail heavy. If you have not flown a light RV it is hard for you
understand what I mean.

I agree its up to builder to make their RV the way they want. I have a
Hartzell, because of cost, performance, maintenance and reliability. So I will
accept the weight for a metal prop. However engine and prop do have the
biggest affect on weight.

Avionics is a minor player, not insignificant but I think heavy paint jobs and
internal priming can add the most. In some ways going from Vacuum to EFIS
and Electronic engine monitors, avionics has become lighter; however I am
aware of the two axis auto pilots and very full panels can add weight. Also
with the fancy panel people add two alternators and/or two batteries. I can't
believe some folks desire and large pocketbooks to stuff a panel full. Engine
choice or prop choice can add 30 or 40 lbs each. It takes a lot of avionics to
match 30-80 lbs.

W&B is the big factor on how the plane feels and what kind of
utility you have. Forget top speed for a moment.

Let's take a look shall we?

Just a scanning of aircraft empty weights that I compiled, lets just look at RV-6(A)'s:

Eng (legend)
[320 = 150/160HP (FI or Carb)]
[360 = 180HP (FI or Carb)]
[IO-360 = 200HP (FI)]


RV Wt. Eng Prop
-6 980 320 Aymar
-6 992 360 Wood
-6 1001 320 Sensenich
-6 1010 320 Hartzell
-6 1011 360 wood
-6 1017 360 Sensenich
-6 1020 320 Sensenich
-6 1023 320 Sensenich
-6 1029 320 Wood
-6 1029 360 Hartzell
-6 1032 360 Hartzell
-6 1034 320 Sensenich
-6 1036 360 Catto
-6 1041 360 Sensenich
-6 1046 320 Sensenich
-6 1050 320 Sensenich
-6 1062 320 Sensenich
-6 1063 360 Sensenich
-6 1067 360 Sterba
-6 1070 320 Wood
-6 1070 360 Hartzell
-6 1072 320 Aymar
-6 1090 360 Hartzell
-6 1110 360 Hartzell
-6 1130 320 Hartzell
-6 1139 360 Hartzell
-6 1147 360 Sensenich
-6 1244 IO-360 Hartzell
-6A 990 320 Sensenich
-6A 1020 320 Catto
-6A 1029 320 Wood
-6A 1040 360 Hartzell
-6A 1051 320 Sensenich
-6A 1060 IO-320 Wood
-6A 1064 360 Hartzell
-6A 1066 320 Sensenich
-6A 1079 320 Sensenich
-6A 1084 360 Hartzell
-6A 1094 360 Hartzell
-6A 1108 360 Hartzell
-6A 1120 320 Hartzell
-6A 1126 360 ?
-6A 1139 360 Hartzell
-6A 1165 360 Hartzell
-6A 1168 360 Hartzell
-6A 1170 360 Wood
-6A 1171 360 Hartzell
-6A 1179 360 Hartzell
-6A 1189 360 Hartzell
-6A 1195 IO-360 Hartzell

Analysis of all data above:
1078 Simple Avg
1065 Median
62 Std Dev
1244 Max
980 Min

Engine Break down:
Eng Avg MAX MIN
320 1037 1130 980
360 1092 1189 992
IO360 1220 1244 1195

You tell me the engine does not make a differnce? I say no Sir! (kidding)

Trust me, of all RV models (-4 thru -9) with O320/Wood prop's, the light
weight ones come in at less than 1000 lb. (typ 980 lbs, with the lightest I
have found was a RV-4 at 874 lbs)

The heaviest was the RV-6 quoted above at 1244 lbs. Using the 874 lb RV-4,
that is a 370 lb differnce! :eek: So there! ( :D )

In just the RV-6(A) data sample above 264 lbs difference from the max to min!
Guess what engine/prop was in the light one? 320/Aymar fixed
The engine/prop in the heavy one was? IO-360(200HP)/Hartzell
(Again I have no way of knowing how the planes where equipped other wise.)

Granted I did not include panel, paint, upholstery or what ever, but I have a
data base of over 120 planes and there is a clear trend
. Big engine, big prop,
higher weight. Little engine, little prop, lower weight. That is why I said a RV-4
with a 160hp/wood prop was a delight to fly. It does matter. You have to fly
one to know what I am talking about.

There is no surprise because there is a 10 lb, 15 lb to 30 lb weight jump in
each engine HP, i..e, 150 hp, 160hp, 180hp and 200hp. It does not take
rocket science to understand also the oil cooler get bigger, fuel Injection has
more parts and so on.

Also not in the rocket science category, is metal props weigh more then
wood ones. Fixed ones weigh less than constant speed. When you add it up,
the above is typical and representative.

When you look at 20-30 lb engine weight and maybe 20-30 lb or more for
prop it is clearly the main factor. It would take a lot of avionics to make 20-
30 lbs. Again the RV-4 that weighs 874 lbs vs. a RV-6 at a hefty 1244 lbs
makes a difference in how it flys.

That is a lot of weight! I don't agree with avionics alone, upholstery alone or
paint alone being the cause of high empty weights. It is all of them. It is a
little of everything, but mostly engine and prop. I rest my case. So
there, :p .

It only takes an extra 100 lbs on the nose to make a plane fly quite differnt. I
don't know how many RV's you have flown but I have owned a few and flown
many others. Light weight makes the plane fly much nicer. I am not alone in
that opinion and not sure what you are debating. If you ever fly a light 900 lb
RV-4 and than go fly an RV-8 with 1200 lb empty wt, you will know what I
mean. This is no put down of the heavy weight RV-8, the extra 40 hp and
c/s prop makes a difference! However I am totally talking about feel, not
rate of climb or top speed.
Hey I like my woman big, about a Deuce an-a
Quarter. :rolleyes: (well knock a C-note off that.)

Cheers George


PS: Paint I hear estimates from 20 lbs to 30 lbs. I think it is more like 30 lbs.
That is just the exterior. Van's Aircraft saves weight on their factory planes
and does NOT prime before paint. People go hog wild on priming every interior
part with sealing primer verses a wash or translucent primer, will add 10 or
more lbs. Since most of it is on the aft fuselage it makes an aft CG problem
worse. I could see a worse case of 30-40lbs or more for all primer/paint.
If anything comes out of this discussion about weight, everything you add,
including primer adds weight. KEEP IT LIGHT, NOT
FOR SPEED but many other reasons.
 
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tapered wing/-7

Since I have seen the EVO wing on the F-1... how long is it before someone builds an EVO(tapered) wing for the -7? I'm not advocating it... just wondering... and how much speed would it give us?
Twinkie.. (I've got to get another call sign!!!)
BW
 
I don't know that anyone will. But supposidly the M1 Rocket should be coming out... eventually. That would be a side-by-side rocket. Personally, I'm still a big fan of putting the angle valve engines in... IO-390 all the way for me (if money cooperates :))
 
Just to add to gomez's point...weight is not going to impact much on top speed. Weight and power/weight ratio may impact to a rather large degree on acceleration, but much less so on top speed. For the high top speed, you want improved aerodynamics (many good pointers already mentioned).

Cheers,

DF
 
How about no flaps

Has anyone built a flapless RV? I'm thinking it would save weight and clean up the wing a good bit. Obviously there are some tradeoffs here.

Add a retractable tailwheel while I'm at it.

rd
 
RJDickensheets said:
Has anyone built a flapless RV? I'm thinking it would save weight and clean up the wing a good bit. Obviously there are some tradeoffs here.

I could see that you would have a small weight savings. However, I don't really see how it would clean up the wing that much. If someone wanted to do a proof of concept, they could put some tape over the gaps and do a test flight. I'd be surprised if there was a lot to gain.
 
No flaps

I actually got the idea from Aviat of Afton, WY.

They say the Husky Pup is as fast as the A-1B because less drag assoc. with no flaps. Grant it the Husky wing is pretty dirty in the first place.

Just thinking out loud.
 
Clip the wings

Major mods on the RV-7, instead of flap is clipped wings. Take out at leas one or two bays.

Also some have (this it top secret) put RV-9 ailerons, flaps and elevators on. Why? The square trailing edge is thought to be faster. G
 
George I considered the clip wing, but how much control surface would be sacrificed with the two bays? You may end up deleting the flap along the way.

rd
 
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