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Factory Visit and ?

G

Gandalf

Well Known Member
My Factory Visit

I picked up my wing kit at Vans Monday and took the factory tour with Ken! I also saw both the original and final RV12 (the tail is finalized). The computer driven stampers are pretty neat. I will probably make another run to Vans for a test flight in the future. As it was I spent the whole day driving to and from Aurora. I transported the two boxes on a flat trailer that I use for white water rafts. The only problem was the roller on the back of the trailer. The folks at Vans were real helpful and put little blocks under the spar box to clear the roller. They also suggested that I modify my tie down procedure to include a "wrap" around the spar box. I did buy a couple of RV coffee mugs :).

?s

As I understand it, most of the rivet holes are punched out and these do not need de-burring. The edges of the parts may benefit from a very quick pass over a scotch brite wheel. According to the plans I should prime the the aluminum bar, angle and tube. Vans uses P60G2 and, surprisingly, I found a gallon of this primer and catalyst locally. I cleaned out my wooden tool shed and plan to line the walls with plastic and use a HVLP gun to spray the parts leaving the doors open, taking a break if I see a build up of overspray. I did buy all the protection gear including a charcoal respirator, but I did not buy an explosion resistant fan. Without stirring up too much controversy, does this all sound reasonable? I am excited to get going.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Jeff
 
I am new to the P60G2 myself. One thing that I have not been able to find in any of the conversations (if you google this product VAF has the top results), is if there is any wait time after adding the catalyst/reducer before applying this product?

I plan on using a simple wire rack and some plastic outside my shop. Supposedly the HVLP keeps the overspray at a minimum.
 
Spray Painting

Jeff,

Do you know the active ingredients of the paint you are using?

Paint companies will have data and safety sheets that go with
each of their products. These detail measures required
for safe use. As these products aren't household (safety-suggested)
products, you need to follow their directions closely.

Many of the constituents are highly toxic, noxious and some are
carcenogenic. Two-pack products should be used with an
air-fed mask and complete body protection.

If you decide to set up in your shed, try to use the fan to
pressurize the booth through a good filter and exhaust through another.
That way you are not drawing volitile and potentially
explosive gasses through a fan.

These negatives brought me to enroll in an evening vehicle spray painting
course at our local technical school. What a bargain! Great, safe
conditions. We had first rate equipment, climate controlled booths
with excellent lighting and expert
instruction. Of course, I was the weirdo with aircraft parts.

I hope this helps,

Sam
 
The safety sheet you are referring to is the MSDS (Materials Safety Data Sheet). They can be found on the (most) paint company's web site. Do read this document (usually just a few pages) for the type of paint (or anything) you will be using. Not only does it give the chemical composition, protection steps, symptom of exposure, it also provides the (if needed) emergency responders with a guide to a course of treatment.

It is a good idea to print out the specific MSDS papers and keep them posted near where you are working. If you do this, you may never need them. If you do need them, they will be handy.
 
Gandalf said:
My Factory Visit



As I understand it, most of the rivet holes are punched out and these do not need de-burring. The edges of the parts may benefit from a very quick pass over a scotch brite wheel. According to the plans I should prime the the aluminum bar, angle and tube. Vans uses P60G2 and, surprisingly, I found a gallon of this primer and catalyst locally. I cleaned out my wooden tool shed and plan to line the walls with plastic and use a HVLP gun to spray the parts leaving the doors open, taking a break if I see a build up of overspray. I did buy all the protection gear including a charcoal respirator, but I did not buy an explosion resistant fan. Without stirring up too much controversy, does this all sound reasonable? I am excited to get going.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Jeff
Click to expand...

Just take the parts outside and shoot the primer, no need for a paint booth. The P60 should be applied in a very thin, translucent coat and since it isn't a glossy finish coat, you don't have the normal painting concerns with trash in the air. It dries so fast bugs won't have a chance to find your airplane parts while they are wet. :)

Enjoy your -12 build!
 
One other suggestion. The instructions say to mix one part primer with 1.5 parts activator. I never could get a nice smooth finish until I mixed it one part primer to two parts activator. You are going to have to buy two gallons of activator anyway. Like SAM said, just a light coat is all that's necessary. It will give a nice hard gray-green finish that you can still see your sharpie marks through which is a good thing. I've tried several brands of self etch primers over the last four years of building and the P-60 is my favorite. Make sure and get the proper canisters for your respirator. Hope this helps and good luck.
 
Gandalf-What is your Builder Number

I am still awaiting the wing kit. I am Number #88. What is your builder number? Wondering if I am getting close??? :)
 
# 74 on its way

I am # 74 and Vans crated mine last Friday. I am hoping it shows up in the next few days.


Brad
 
#69

I'm number 69. The crates were shipped out yesterday and FedEx has already called and arranged a delivery window tomorrow (Thurs) afternoon.
 
Last edited:
I want to thank everyone for their replies. They were very helpful. I am order #66.

I just finished unboxing everything. I think that Vans tries to save space by bending the aluminum sheet into the box. Personally, I wish they would make the box bigger and leave the aluminum sheet flat. That is due to the fact that I am going to use the shipping box to store and protect the flat sheets. If the box was bigger it would be just hunky dory for storing the sheets. As it is, I took one side of the box off and I am letting the sheets unfold. Be warned that when you remove the two side screws the retaining strip of wood will spring up as the aluminum sheet uncoils :)

My next project is to put up a mounting board on my tool shed for attaching a water trap, quick connects and a HPLV gun holder. I am planning to use a self coiling hose to connect from the trap to the spray gun and an inline desiccator downstream from the water trap.

Happy building,
Jeff
 
? unfolding aluminum

Gandalf said:
I just finished unboxing everything. I think that Vans tries to save space by bending the aluminum sheet into the box. Personally, I wish they would make the box bigger and leave the aluminum sheet flat. That is due to the fact that I am going to use the shipping box to store and protect the flat sheets. If the box was bigger it would be just hunky dory for storing the sheets. As it is, I took one side of the box off and I am letting the sheets unfold. Be warned that when you remove the two side screws the retaining strip of wood will spring up as the aluminum sheet uncoils
Click to expand...

Jeff:

Unless something is very different with your crate, all aluminum sheets that are "bent" are supposed to be that way as they are sheets that go around the wing leading edge. None of the sheets that should be flat were bent in my crate. In fact, I put the retaining strip back on to protect the bent sheets and keep them in that configuration.
 
jte65... Well THAT makes a lot more sense. I still have the retaining strip, so I can put it back after I am done with the inventory.

Thanks for taking the time to tell me that,
Jeff
 
Picked up wing kit friday afternoon, sat in the red rv-12 (made engine noises), took 100+ pictures of both rv-12's (love digital cameras), went to Independence for the fly-in on saturday. Drove home uncrated it and started clecoing it together. Best 48 hours in a very long time.
 
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