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F-602 skin fit

H6 RV-6A

Member
How is the F-602 glareshield sin supposed to fit? Is it supposed to line up with the forward top skin or snug down against the canopy framework? On mine, with it lined up with the forward skin, there is a gap between it and the canopy frame (the tube part. With it snug down against the frame, it is not in line with the forward skin.

Thanks

Edit: oops. thats C-602
 
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Is the uncut front edge of C-602 supposed to butt up against the front top skin or are you supposed to trim it to get it to hug down against the canopy frame. On mine, with the uncut edge butting up against the forward top skin, there is about 3/8" between the tubing part of WD-616 and the skin where it curves down.
 
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How is the F-602 glareshield sin supposed to fit? Is it supposed to line up with the forward top skin or snug down against the canopy framework? On mine, with it lined up with the forward skin, there is a gap between it and the canopy frame (the tube part. With it snug down against the frame, it is not in line with the forward skin.

Thanks

I think you are talking about the C-602 skin. If you mounted your hinge blocks in the proper location, the the skin should line up with the F-671 skin.

As mentioned above, shims might make it work.

Do you have a picture?
 
Does it go flush anywhere along the tube?

The canopy frame gets a lot of tweaking with clamps, spacers while fitting it together. Is your frame already riveted together? If so, you would shim. CS4 get placed every two inches along the tube, so you would need some longer pull rivets for a few holes. Short sections of alum rod with a filed out saddle to sit over the tube and countersunk/drilled #30 works. You could smooth in a bead of sealant to black out the ultimate gaps if it bothers you. Many people trim the C602 front and rear to achieve a nice joint at the front and whatever sunshade overhang you like over the instruments. It may be that your options to remedy are limited if everything is drilled or riveted already. Any more pictures?
 
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