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F-1211 Blind/Solid Rivet Substitution

MechaSteve

Active Member
The opposite to the question of using blind rivets to avoid driving solid rivets:
Can I use all solid rivets, instead of a mix of solid and blind?

In the KAI, the rivet call-outs for the Tail Bulkhead (F-1211) show using solid rivets for the more "outer" rivets (the ones at the top and bottom of the bulkhead), and blind rivets for about 10 of the inner rivets.

Specifically I am talking about the ones used to secure the nutplates and the trim pivot brackets.

It looks like the blind rivets are used to meet the "just simple hand tools" promise by not requiring any solid rivets that cannot be reached with a 1.5" yoke squeezer. However, the counterbalance access hole in the middle of the bulkhead is large enough to allow a squeezer to be used from inside out.

Does using solid rivets like this alter from the KAI in a meaningful way?
Has anyone else tried the same, and run into issues I am not seeing?
 
Per page 17-3 of The RV-12 Maintenance Manual, solid rivets may be substituted for pulled rivets.
 

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Yep, I recall making this same substitution on the bulkhead and keeping it in mind for the rest of the build. With a good selection of yokes there are several of those annoying 'nutplate rivet' blind rivets solid rivets.


The opposite to the question of using blind rivets to avoid driving solid rivets:
Can I use all solid rivets, instead of a mix of solid and blind?

In the KAI, the rivet call-outs for the Tail Bulkhead (F-1211) show using solid rivets for the more "outer" rivets (the ones at the top and bottom of the bulkhead), and blind rivets for about 10 of the inner rivets.

Specifically I am talking about the ones used to secure the nutplates and the trim pivot brackets.

It looks like the blind rivets are used to meet the "just simple hand tools" promise by not requiring any solid rivets that cannot be reached with a 1.5" yoke squeezer. However, the counterbalance access hole in the middle of the bulkhead is large enough to allow a squeezer to be used from inside out.

Does using solid rivets like this alter from the KAI in a meaningful way?
Has anyone else tried the same, and run into issues I am not seeing?
 
Per page 17-3 of The RV-12 Maintenance Manual, solid rivets may be substituted for pulled rivets.

Outstanding.

Would be great to have that info in section 5, or some other part of the KAI that you get before finishing the airframe.
 
Outstanding.

Would be great to have that info in section 5, or some other part of the KAI that you get before finishing the airframe.

Unrelated, but since the approved replacements list has been brought to your attention take note of those Torx pan heads that can be used in the interior. You'll want to know that when you get closer to the end!
 
Unrelated, but since the approved replacements list has been brought to your attention take note of those Torx pan heads that can be used in the interior. You'll want to know that when you get closer to the end!

Is the preference based on a Phillips head tending to cam out and develop a burr? Or just the non-cam tendencies of Torx in general?
 
Both of the reasons you cited, plus, Wera has a set of Torx-holding bits that work great. It makes it much easier to reach far-away screws, like on the baggage-bulkhead cover, or reach down between the seat-belt anchor points and the tunnel-cover flange where you can’t get your fingers down there to hold the screw to remove or get them started. I’ve replaced all of my Phillips-head screws with Torx.

Wera Tools 05056476001 Check 6 TX HF 1 TORX BITS with Holding Function, One Size, Multi https://a.co/d/anVcbvw
 
Two sources, if you want to replace all exterior screws too. Albanycounty is where I got most of the round-head screws. To get 100 degree flush-head screws, I could only find them at a site for knife and gun making/repairs. They’re 5/16” instead of 3/8”, and black oxide, but work just fine.

I also discovered the heads for 8-32 screws can come made for T20, T15 and I even stumbled across some T10 tools, so if you want them all to use say a T15 tool, best to ask if it’s not clearly identified in the screw listing.

3/8” 6-32 black oxide SS for instrument panel:
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.c...yfihUbrTGXlY7IuZejhlSSFEs5zIJVaRoCNbkQAvD_BwE

3/8” & 1/2” 8-32 SS for covers:
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.c...s-Head-Machine-Torx-Screw-8-32-p/1080-066.htm

100 degree countersunk 8-32 SS for the avionics cover and forward vertical-stabilizer fairing:
https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/adva...375-1&osCsid=d402f1e90c691bf9716b09de4bf81d31
 
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