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EZ-COWL Offer

HFS

Well Known Member
I'm the guy that "developed" EZ-COWL back in the late 1980's; and, Larry's article in KP brought it a bit more awareness to the builder masses. For. years I have offered these for free (shipping costs only), since it (EZ-COWL) is really just an alternative idea to Van's recommended cowling install instructions. Anybody can make one, as evidenced from Larry's article - but sometimes it's easier for me to make a bunch of them out of "scrap" materials I have in my shop, and make them available to builders around the country (and world), with the proviso that they be "payed forward" to other builders as needed.

So far, I have somewhere north of 50 of them in service, with another dozen or so still in stock ready to be shipped - if you are not ready for one yet, please wait until you are, and post a request for one already in circulation. If none of those are available, I'll be glad to send one to you. If you are ready now, and would like one (to become its caretaker), let me know and I'll send one, with an installation "packet" for the cost of shipping only (for CONUS ~ <$20).

HFS
HRII S/N 002

The second pic is from my Rocket cowl install in 1996 ...
 

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  • EZ-COWL - Group Photo .JPG
    EZ-COWL - Group Photo .JPG
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  • EZ-COWL - Baffle Marking.jpg
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Will this work on an RV-10 with the 540?
This will work on any RV, or virtually any other homebuilt..... except jets. :cool:

If David runs out of these, or if anyone would like a tricked out metal version for more money, check out www.flyboyaccessories.com for their similar tool.

I'd take David up on his offer!!!! Get ya one before they're gone. If you're planning on installing an engine in your RV, you WILL need one, or you'll need to make one yourself. Ugh... why do that!?
 
I'm the guy that "developed" EZ-COWL back in the late 1980's; and, Larry's article in KP brought it a bit more awareness to the builder masses. For. years I have offered these for free (shipping costs only), since it (EZ-COWL) is really just an alternative idea to Van's recommended cowling install instructions. Anybody can make one, as evidenced from Larry's article - but sometimes it's easier for me to make a bunch of them out of "scrap" materials I have in my shop, and make them available to builders around the country (and world), with the proviso that they be "payed forward" to other builders as needed.

So far, I have somewhere north of 50 of them in service, with another dozen or so still in stock ready to be shipped - if you are not ready for one yet, please wait until you are, and post a request for one already in circulation. If none of those are available, I'll be glad to send one to you. If you are ready now, and would like one (to become its caretaker), let me know and I'll send one, with an installation "packet" for the cost of shipping only (for CONUS ~ <$20).

HFS
HRII S/N 002

The second pic is from my Rocket cowl install in 1996 ...
Hi!

How does the EZ-COWL actually works? is there a step by step explanation on how to use it? I read the KP article and I could only understand that the cowl kind of rests on the EZ-COWL? Could you share more details on how to use it and differences between using it or going with Vans technique?

Thanks!
 
Hi!

How does the EZ-COWL actually works? is there a step by step explanation on how to use it? I read the KP article and I could only understand that the cowl kind of rests on the EZ-COWL? Could you share more details on how to use it and differences between using it or going with Vans technique?

Thanks!
I do send an info "packet" along with some pics describing/showing how EZ-COWL works. It is certainly enough to get started; and, there enough of them (around the world), that additional insight to their use could be achieved by putting out a request on this platform ...

HFS
 
I do send an info "packet" along with some pics describing/showing how EZ-COWL works. It is certainly enough to get started; and, there enough of them (around the world), that additional insight to their use could be achieved by putting out a request on this platform ...

HFS
Uhhh….didn’t he already do that? No disrespect intended, but I’m not sure why you are reluctant to answer the question.
 
Uhhh….didn’t he already do that? No disrespect intended, but I’m not sure why you are reluctant to answer the question.
I am afraid I misunderstood the question - which (I guess) was "How does the dang thing actually work & how is it different from Van's?" If that was the question, I'm sorry that I am so close to the subject, and assumed (incorrectly) that with all of the previous posts about mine and the one from FlyBoy Accessories that the basic idea of how it works was already known ... so

All the EZ-COWL does is provide an accurate extension of the crankshaft centerline upon which the nose bowl of the cowl is positioned. A sliding circular disc (aluminum, wood, PVC, or ?) with a hole in the center - sized to slide over the EZ-COWL tube, which is "indicated" on the 2.25" crankshaft "pilot", giving an exact extension of the CS centerline. This disc has an outside diameter equal to the diameter of the nosebowl, and an inner hole (centered) slightly larger (+ .010) than the tube, allowing for sliding movement as needed during installation. The EZ-COWL tube is 12" long, giving quite a bit of back-and-forth movement to allow "adjustments" to be made to the cowling at installation.

Since there is no interference from the spinner backing plate (installed in Van's instructions), it is much easier to fit the cowl halves (either singly or together) by simply moving the cowling back-and-forth until the firewall final cut is made.

A couple of attached pics might help ...

HFS
 

Attachments

  • EZ-COWL - Bill Calvert (Gen. Pic).jpg
    EZ-COWL - Bill Calvert (Gen. Pic).jpg
    5.9 MB · Views: 95
  • EZ-COWL General View of %22Tube%22 & Ring.jpg
    EZ-COWL General View of %22Tube%22 & Ring.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 95
I am afraid I misunderstood the question - which (I guess) was "How does the dang thing actually work & how is it different from Van's?" If that was the question, I'm sorry that I am so close to the subject, and assumed (incorrectly) that with all of the previous posts about mine and the one from FlyBoy Accessories that the basic idea of how it works was already known ... so

All the EZ-COWL does is provide an accurate extension of the crankshaft centerline upon which the nose bowl of the cowl is positioned. A sliding circular disc (aluminum, wood, PVC, or ?) with a hole in the center - sized to slide over the EZ-COWL tube, which is "indicated" on the 2.25" crankshaft "pilot", giving an exact extension of the CS centerline. This disc has an outside diameter equal to the diameter of the nosebowl, and an inner hole (centered) slightly larger (+ .010) than the tube, allowing for sliding movement as needed during installation. The EZ-COWL tube is 12" long, giving quite a bit of back-and-forth movement to allow "adjustments" to be made to the cowling at installation.

Since there is no interference from the spinner backing plate (installed in Van's instructions), it is much easier to fit the cowl halves (either singly or together) by simply moving the cowling back-and-forth until the firewall final cut is made.

A couple of attached pics might help ...

HFS
Excellent! Thanks, that is very helpful.
 
Hi!

How does the EZ-COWL actually works? is there a step by step explanation on how to use it? I read the KP article and I could only understand that the cowl kind of rests on the EZ-COWL? Could you share more details on how to use it and differences between using it or going with Vans technique?

Thanks!
I have just completed installation of the engine cowl, "one only", so I'm no expert but I think the process may depend on the prop FP versus CS and what prop parts you already have.

Dave had kindly offered to send me the EZ cowl tool for the cost of the postage, but because postage is expensive to Down Under I decided to make one locally instead, using Dave's plans, for which I located and purchased the materials.

I already have a Sensenich FP prop and extension and spinner/backing plate from Vans and it was actually quite straightforward to install the cowl using these as a guide. If you use the EZ cowl instead then it would be important to know the dimensions of the flange on the spinner backing plate, because this needs to end up 1/4" from the front of the cowl and parallel to the cowl ring (the ring may need to be adjusted by grinding and shimming, depending on how the cowl was molded).

I also elected to set the cowl slightly low and not centred on the crank extension (per the plans), because this allows for when the engine settles on its mounts.
 
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I am afraid I misunderstood the question - which (I guess) was "How does the dang thing actually work & how is it different from Van's?" If that was the question, I'm sorry that I am so close to the subject, and assumed (incorrectly) that with all of the previous posts about mine and the one from FlyBoy Accessories that the basic idea of how it works was already known ... so

All the EZ-COWL does is provide an accurate extension of the crankshaft centerline upon which the nose bowl of the cowl is positioned. A sliding circular disc (aluminum, wood, PVC, or ?) with a hole in the center - sized to slide over the EZ-COWL tube, which is "indicated" on the 2.25" crankshaft "pilot", giving an exact extension of the CS centerline. This disc has an outside diameter equal to the diameter of the nosebowl, and an inner hole (centered) slightly larger (+ .010) than the tube, allowing for sliding movement as needed during installation. The EZ-COWL tube is 12" long, giving quite a bit of back-and-forth movement to allow "adjustments" to be made to the cowling at installation.

Since there is no interference from the spinner backing plate (installed in Van's instructions), it is much easier to fit the cowl halves (either singly or together) by simply moving the cowling back-and-forth until the firewall final cut is made.

A couple of attached pics might help ...

HFS
Thank you so much for the explanation! I will definitely want to be a "caretaker" once I receive my engine. Thanks for the contribution to the community! Much appreciated.
 
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