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Extra hole in step

S

scorwin

Active Member
309DD86F-5DF7-442C-9C2D-C5B1DF762667_zpstqhot7ao.jpg


How can I fix this? I've ordered the step inserts already but the guide hole is just next to the bolt hole. Use a rivet to fill it in? I have no experience welding. Can't take the mount out and replace it bc the skins are riveted in place.

Any ideas?

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/...F-5DF7-442C-9C2D-C5B1DF762667_zpstqhot7ao.jpg
 
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access hole

If it were me I would leave it as is and re-drill so the bolt goes through horizontally. Purchase a pair of those access plates van's sells for the wing leading edge to access the stall warning horn and install them in the fuse floor for future step access. In the photo I hadn't re-drilled the hole horizontally yet. Notice how badly I missed center on the vertical bottom hole as well.

step_access.jpg


Several have made a "step bushings" to go inside the step tube that can be used as both a drill guide and something for the step bolt to clamp on when tightening. They would be pretty easy to make or TCW sells them http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10-construction-project.htm
 
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This is what I found from Section 19. Gonna order it today
That looks good. Going horizontal is a good idea also. I ordered the bushings from TCW also.


ACCESS HATCH DOUBLER (x 2)
VA-195C $4.20 $8.40
ACCESS HATCH COVER (x 2)
VA-195D $2.90 $5.80
6-32
K1100-06 (x 20) $0.64 $12.80
C/Sunk,non-struct
AN507-6R6 (x 20) $0.06 $1.20



Since I'm ordering things anyways....

What size conduit does everyone order? From Vans, it looks like there's only one size (5/8). If not from Vans, where do you get it from?
 
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conduit

5/8's is the only stuff I'm aware that Van's sells. I think it works pretty good. I'm sure there are conduit pipes you can get at home depot that would work.

The important thing though is run at least 4 conduit pipes (2 on each side).

Be real precise when placing the access hatch doubler hole in the floor because it's easy to place it such that the closeout panel on the side wall will cover the edge and make getting the screws in or out impossible. You do want to get it as far over as you can as that just barely give you access to the step weldment.

Drill the horizontal holes prior to putting in the floorboards. I drilled the horizontal holes after riveting down the baggage floor (because I hadn't decided to do the mod at that point). I had to use a right angle air drill and it was a bit tricky but not too bad.
 
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Revisit this thread

I had to take some time off to move. Getting a shop built! But in the meantime, its time to get back at it in my garage.

I'm still stuck with the above dilemma. What does the rest of the VAF say about the access plates? Worth it or not really?

Just use the bushings (I have them)?

Other ideas or options

Shawn
 
I used the bushing and torqued the bolt down. I didn't bother with access panels since they're not able to be positioned in a way to remove the bolt. My hope is that the step never becomes loose. If it does I will retro install an access panel to get to the nuts... if I have to replace the bolt then will have to drill from the bottom up and close it off with something.
 
AviatorJ said:
I used the bushing and torqued the bolt down. I didn't bother with access panels since they're not able to be positioned in a way to remove the bolt. My hope is that the step never becomes loose. If it does I will retro install an access panel to get to the nuts... if I have to replace the bolt then will have to drill from the bottom up and close it off with something.
Click to expand...

You don't need access panels to install/remove vertically positioned bolts. Just 5/8" holes, which can be drilled in the baggage floor and through the belly skin, and filled with snap-in plugs.
 
Yep!

That is what I did. Before I riveted the floor, I ran a long drill bit throughout the step holes and through the bottom skin. Then I clecoed the floor and ran the same bit up through the bottom skin hole, through the step holes and throughout the floor. Now I have the exact location of the bolt and nut. Both floor and skin holes will be closed with a snap in plug.
 
Kyle Boatright said:
You don't need access panels to install/remove vertically positioned bolts. Just 5/8" holes, which can be drilled in the baggage floor and through the belly skin, and filled with snap-in plugs.
Click to expand...

Yah I would do something like that... but how do you get to the top of the bolt without an access panel?
 
AviatorJ said:
Yah I would do something like that... but how do you get to the top of the bolt without an access panel?
Click to expand...

You have two holes. One in the belly skin of the airplane, one in the baggage floor. You access the nut through the hole in the belly and the bolt through the baggage floor.
 
What about the missed drill hole?

Any thoughts? By using the bushing, I "think" it would be ok. That's my primary concern
 
scorwin said:
Any thoughts? By using the bushing, I "think" it would be ok. That's my primary concern
Click to expand...

How do you think that bushing is going to help you? That bolt is in an application where its primary job is to resist the torque applied when someone stands on the step. You don't need a lot of clamping force to resist that torque. Just snug the nut/bolt.

As far as that extra hole being a problem? It probably won't be. I'd go ahead and install it as it. Minus the bushing. It isn't like it is a safety of flight item.
 
If I remember the thought process on the bushing was to prevent the pipe from smashing and loosening the bolt. Not sure I said that correctly.
 
AviatorJ said:
If I remember the thought process on the bushing was to prevent the pipe from smashing and loosening the bolt. Not sure I said that correctly.
Click to expand...

That bolt is in a shear (not tension) application. If it would stay in place, you wouldn't even need the nut. What it is doing is keeping your step from rotating. Squeezing the joint by highly torqueing that bolt is unnecessary, as (IMO) is the bushing.
 
Sounds like best plan is to build on! I have the access panels. Can always add on later if needed. I really don't want to install the panels, only to find out later that one of the screws is inaccessible.

Thanks for the help
 
Bushings

+1 on the tcwtech bushings.

What the previous poster said is technically correct but the fit of the bolt in the hole would be paramount is his example; i.e. any slop in the bolt/hole would allow movement between the step and it's receiver, multiplied by the length of the step.

I used the bushings, torqued the bolt to the recommended value and have no issues. I am sure it would would without the bushing, too...
 
Bushings

+1 on the tcwtech bushings.

What the previous poster said is technically correct but the fit of the bolt in the hole would be paramount is his example; i.e. any slop in the bolt/hole would allow movement between the step and it's receiver, multiplied by the length of the step.

I used the bushings, torqued the bolt to the recommended value and have no issues. I am sure it would would without the bushing, too...
 
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