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Extending a tip-up panel

David_Nelson

David_Nelson

Well Known Member
I've decided that I'm going to have a go at making my own panel. In laying out my panel, I know that I want to add at least 1" to the bottom. Sooo....

I like the idea of a recessed panel for the switches/controls. Does anybody sell Z-channel that is that big (I'm thinking 1" x 2" x 1")? If I make my own Z-channel, is .040 think enough or do I need to go .063 (I've got plenty of .040)?

I've also got a set of Stein's aluminum vents. I'm thinking of ordering some filler pieces from Fabian. From the looks, I need to add angle to attach it to the fuselage and another piece of backing for a nutplate to attach it to panel. Sound reasonable?

Other than leaving some room for the radio stack brackets and the angle that goes along the top of the panel, are there any other "gotchas" before I go cutting holes?

Thanks!
 
I am interested in the 'Z' sub-panel also if a source can be located. My son-in-law is a machinist at Ball Aerospace so may ask him about making some up.

An option is to use a 'sub-panel kit' from Affordable Panels.
 
I know I am repeating myself.

But encase someone didn't see my post before on another thread, I also needed a deeper panel to fit my 2 EFIS units. I asked Vans about getting the metal for me to make my new panel and Scott Risen said that they could make me a new one with the deeper measurement. I told him that I want 1.5 inches more and they had it in a few days. This allowed me to place my EFIS's in the panel and then have room at the bottom of the panel for the switches and CB without needing to go to the extra Z channel.

Kent
 
David_Nelson said:
I like the idea of a recessed panel for the switches/controls. Does anybody sell Z-channel that is that big (I'm thinking 1" x 2" x 1")? If I make my own Z-channel, is .040 think enough or do I need to go .063 (I've got plenty of .040)?
Click to expand...
Go to your local hardware store and get some 1/2" aluminum angle. There is no radius in the grove so they nest very nicely.

That's what Affordable Panels recommended and it worked out great.

FYI - I used plate nuts all through my panel so that the sub-panel can come apart in sections for future maintenance.

Check my web site for pictures.
 
Panel Extension

David: I have the very thing you are thinking about making. I made the center section rigid to support the engine controls. The Z section for each side switch panel was made by making a 1/2" angle riveted to the bottom of the main panel. This angle holds the nut plates for easy removal of the left and right switch panels. The panels I decided on was 1 3/4" to give maximum clearance for access when getting in or out (Bubba Size). The panels are flanged only at the bottom. The screws are at the top into the nut plates on the flange. I also left a cutout on the right and left side for removal of the air vents seperate from the panels. I used .032 aluminum for the panel, and to bend the flange used two pieces of wood clamped in a vice. I did not own a bending brake. If you need additional info I can send a picture of what the completed panels looks like.
Harvey
 
Austin

David:
Sent a PM. I'm in AUstin too and would really like to vist. Extra set of hands if you need them.
 
Ironflight said:
Here is a thread from last year when we did exactly what you're doing to Louise's -6:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=22338

It might help you out - if you don't have a sheet metal shop in Austin, Hobby isn't that far away. I had no luck trying to find the size I needed ready made.

paul
Click to expand...

Hi Paul,

Mikey's panel upgrade is what got me thinking about this whole thing. I'm pretty sure I can find somebody with a brake around here somewhere. If not, I can probably talk a sheet metal shop into bending it up for me.

Thanks,
 
GrayHawk said:
An option is to use a 'sub-panel kit' from Affordable Panels.
Click to expand...

Hi GrayHawk,

I went back to Fabian's site and looked at the kit. I could probably make it work, but some angle would have to be fabbed and that likely will push it back too far. I was doing some measurements last night, and I'm looking to recess it back about 7/8" - which 3/4" angle could do (hmmmmm). I want the switch's handle to stick out a little bit (~ 1/4") so that it's still easy (but not too easy) to flip the switch with my finger tip. Something to think about.

Thanks,
 
kentb said:
But encase someone didn't see my post before on another thread, I also needed a deeper panel to fit my 2 EFIS units. I asked Vans about getting the metal for me to make my new panel and Scott Risen said that they could make me a new one with the deeper measurement. I told him that I want 1.5 inches more and they had it in a few days. This allowed me to place my EFIS's in the panel and then have room at the bottom of the panel for the switches and CB without needing to go to the extra Z channel.

Kent
Click to expand...

Hi Kent,

You know, this crossed my mind earlier. Why doesn't Van offer this up in their catalog. I would think that folks would be interested. It's good to know that they can do these types of customizations.

Thanks,
 
N941WR said:
Go to your local hardware store and get some 1/2" aluminum angle. There is no radius in the grove so they nest very nicely.

That's what Affordable Panels recommended and it worked out great.

FYI - I used plate nuts all through my panel so that the sub-panel can come apart in sections for future maintenance.

Check my web site for pictures.
Click to expand...

Hi Bill,

I read through your site the other night and got a lot of little ideas!

Thanks,
 
rv6ahes said:
David: I have the very thing you are thinking about making. I made the center section rigid to support the engine controls. The Z section for each side switch panel was made by making a 1/2" angle riveted to the bottom of the main panel. This angle holds the nut plates for easy removal of the left and right switch panels. The panels I decided on was 1 3/4" to give maximum clearance for access when getting in or out (Bubba Size). The panels are flanged only at the bottom. The screws are at the top into the nut plates on the flange. I also left a cutout on the right and left side for removal of the air vents seperate from the panels. I used .032 aluminum for the panel, and to bend the flange used two pieces of wood clamped in a vice. I did not own a bending brake. If you need additional info I can send a picture of what the completed panels looks like.
Harvey
Click to expand...

Hi Harvey,

This is an interesting departure from the z-channel and it gets away from the possible problems with making it. If I understand correctly, you've now got a lip (from the 1/2" angle) on the back of your extension. Did this interfere with your switches? If you've a picture of the back side, I'd like to see it. My email is david(dot)nelson(at)pobox(dot)com.

Thanks,
 
Progress thus far...

Thanks everybody for the feedback. I read your sites and studied your pictures (several times!).

Something I learned the other night, not only do you have to compensate to the 3/4" angle around the top, but the CAD file from Van's does not compensate for the bend at the bottom. Measure, measure, remeasure! I had to re-layout some items and do away with some things that no longer fit where I wanted them. It's all about compromises.

The only thing I'm struggling with now (as far as the panel is concerned), is how I'm going to mount the nice vents (the smaller ones) I got from Stein along with the recessed panel. I've got some ideas and I also need to go study other peoples panels (again :).

Take care,
 
David,

You are more than welcome for the help, pictures, etc. Let me know if you need anything else. I have hundreds of pictures that I did not post.

Be careful how high in the panel you mount things, if you have a tip-up. The tip-up has a bracket that sticks down a few inches and can hit long radios and instruments that may be mounted high in the panel.
 
Which bracket?

N941WR said:
David,

Be careful how high in the panel you mount things, if you have a tip-up. The tip-up has a bracket that sticks down a few inches and can hit long radios and instruments that may be mounted high in the panel.
Click to expand...

Hi Bill,

Hmmmm....now which bracket is this? When I fit the forward canopy frame the other night, I noticed that some of the tubes are aft of the panel - no worries there. Admittedly, I haven't looked up under and behind the panel with the front canopy attached. Maybe I should and I'll see what you are talking about.

Thanks,
 
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