Elevator trim tab hinge - dimple/cs question

[John Courte]

Hi,

I just noticed that I countersunk the E-606PP elevator spar on the bottom instead of the top, where it's dimpled. The dimpled holes are where the E-721 hinge is supposed to go. Another thread contained various bits of info about the flap hinge, and that it was OK to dimple it, or countersink it, or make a doubler. Can I do this on the trim tab hinge as well? Is undimpling the spar and countersinking it an option?

Do I need to order a new spar and hinge? I haven't dimpled the elevator skin yet, but I have drilled the trim tab. I'm loathe to re-do the trim tab anyway because it actually came out straight!

Thanks in advance,
-john

 

[lorne green]

E-606PP

Ah, the E-606PP! I did the very same thing. One of the three small parts that I've had to re-order from Van's (so far). I did re-order this part because after c/sinking the spar I figured that the holes would be slightly over sized to recieve the rivets (and I didn't want to play with doublers). I'm not in a hurry to finish up so....that's the way she goes! I think it adds to the learning process where I've needed to take a second look at the plans and parts. The replacement turned out perfect. See, we just use the original parts to practice Keep pounding thoughs rivets!

 

[craigvince]

Dimple vs CS

If you dimpled where you should have countersunk, just undo the dimples. According to Van's tech support guys, you can do this one time. This also applies if you dimple the wrong direction. To undo a dimple, just put a flat rivet squeeze set in your squeezer, and flatten the dimple. Then you can countersink it as appropriate. I know this because I just did the exact same thing 2 days ago and had to call Van's.

If you countersunk where you should have dimpled, no big deal. Just leave it and your dimpled skins will set into the countersinks.