What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Elevator Trailing Edge Question

S

Stalldog

Well Known Member
Sorry, another question and I couldn't find the answer by searching. When exactly should I apply the epoxy/sealant to the rear of the stiffeners?

1. Just as I'm bending the trailing edge?
2. After I bend the trailing edge and before match drilling the skin?
3. After I bend the trailing edge and after match drilling the skin to the spar/ribs?

Little confused as to when's the best time to do this.

Also, there are 8 holes in the left skin for riveting the skin to the trim spar, these are the ones outboard of the trim tab. It looks like I'd be better off match drilling and dimpling these BEFORE bending the trailing edge, at least I'd be able to use by DRDT2 to dimple. Any thoughts?
 
Jim,
If I understand what you are asking, applying the sealant is the last thing you do before you cleco it to the bench or iron. There is a time issue with the sealant - mostly the time to clean it off everything you touch, but it will stay soft enough for you to get everything back together.

My error was using too much sealant. It oozed out in spots making it much messier than it should have been. After putting the sealant on, I clecoed the elevator to the bench that had a drilled piece of 1x4 solid oak that was made straight with a piece of angle iron. I let it semi dry for 2 days (it was cold here) then riveted it.
 
Sounds like rockwood is building -9 elevator not a -7. Just prior to riveting the skin assembly to the spar is the time to put some blobs of pro-seal in the T/E at the ribs. Use enough to tie the very ends of the ribs together. Ya it's some messy s@^%*&#@t but it helps stop cracks at the last rivet.
 
Chuckster, thanks, that helps.

Should I also wait to bend the trailing edge until just before riveting to the spar, or go ahead and bend it now before I match drill to the spar? That would make it easier to dimple the skin holes for the trim spar.
 
Use RTV in an easy to handle squeeze tube...

I'm sure pro seal works fine but it is messy and this is not an easy access spot to get your introduction to using it. Any RTV will work fine and it will be much easier to control the dab at the stiffeners.
 
I've ordered some proseal, but was planning to use the T88 epoxy that I have on hand. Assume that will work just as well.
 
Jim, Please wait and use the pro-seal, the T-88 can be to brittle and can crack loose, then you have epoxy blobs rattleing around inside. Plus, the pro-seal acts as a vibration damper. Oh yes, dimple all the holes before bending the T/E.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top