I did the majority of the rivets with Avery extra long yoke and hand squeezer, using the open ends and access holes in the middle of the elevator skin to get to the spar for riveting.
I still had the bucking with the wood spacers taped to it from the spar riveting on the right elevator. The wood spacers forced me to hold the bucking bar straight under the spar while I was "blind bucking".
OK, so I squeezed as many rivets as I could at the ends of the spar and at the hinge holes then I discovered that back riveting as Vern had suggested worked out pretty well. You have to be careful to hold the skin-spar assembly tightly against the back rivet plate - an extra set of hands helps for this.
Turned out pretty well - not perfect, but I gave up perfection on this project a LONG time ago