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Elevator counterweight skins

osxuser

osxuser

Well Known Member
Anyone else having trouble with the E-713/E-714 fit for the skin over the counterweight? In building my right elevator, the holes didn't quite line up, but match drilling elongated them slightly, and it worked out. The Left is 10X worse, and I'm almost to the point of trimming the counterweight itself so the skin fits over better, but too much trim and the interference fit is gone. What to do? Trim the lead, or strech the holes? This is without a doubt the most frustrating part of the tail so far...
 
Very Tight

Stephen,
there was a recent post on this subject that might be worth searching for.

I, and others, had the same problem.
From memory, once I managed to get EVERY hole cledo'd they did fit, and then I removed one cleco at a time and drilled them.

If you need to remove any lead make it an absolute minimum, as after painting, my left elevator (with the Trim Servo fitted) was balanced without dilling out any lead.

Pete.
 
You need to reduce the radius of the web to flange bend of each rib that sits back to back. This effectively reduces the distance between the holes that match the skin. A rubber mallot works well, just be careful not to damage or bend anything else. A little manipulation and it all fits quite well. This advice was given to me from Bruce at Vans. Worked a treat.
 
Lead removal?

I'm fitting the counterweights to elevator, 703/704, etc. And after reviewing past threads, it seems the majority say. No lead removal until balance time. Correct? or should I take some material off?
 
Brian,

You should wait. It will be different with paint on. I removed a little bit for rivet clearance, but that was minimal.
 
You're certainly not alone here.

I had trouble with the holes misaligning in the inboard/outboard direction. An approach similar to Mr. Hitchen's suggestion seems to have fixed that.

But, now I have misalignment in the fore/aft direction. A baaaaad misalignment. When I have the weight in place, I cannot cleco both sides of the skin at the same time. This would seem to indicate the lead weight is too thick or the front flange bend centerlines aren't right. I am hoping that if I work the flange bend lines and maybe remove a little lead, I can get it to work.

But I don't know. I haven't solved this particular problem, yet. :)
 
RMeggs-try clecoing the skin inplace without the lead. I found the skin to be a tight fit even without the lead inplace, but was doable by massaging and biting my tongue just a bit. I then placed the lead into position and it was clear, I would need to take the vixen file and radius the corners and also make it a touch thinner. Took about 5 minutes.
 
I had to shave quite a bit of the lead to get it to fit. Sounds like you have the same problem. I put it in a vice, and with a vixen file filed it at the same radius untill it fit snug.

RMeggs said:
You're certainly not alone here.

I had trouble with the holes misaligning in the inboard/outboard direction. An approach similar to Mr. Hitchen's suggestion seems to have fixed that.

But, now I have misalignment in the fore/aft direction. A baaaaad misalignment. When I have the weight in place, I cannot cleco both sides of the skin at the same time. This would seem to indicate the lead weight is too thick or the front flange bend centerlines aren't right. I am hoping that if I work the flange bend lines and maybe remove a little lead, I can get it to work.

But I don't know. I haven't solved this particular problem, yet. :)
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