elevator control rod rigging

[ROTARY7]

Maybe this has come up before on the -7/-9 , but I couldn't find a post on it...

I'm slightly past rolling over my -7 fuselage, and did a dry fit of the F-789 elevator pusrod (joystick to bellcrank). To my surprise I couldn't feed the control rod into position (going from aft to fwd or fwd to aft)! I checked the instructions and could not find reference to installing the rod, and I have trouble believing Vans would have one install this during the aft/center section mating (thereby trapping it). Further, if the F-706 bulkhead had a slightly enlarged pass through (on top side of retangle) it looks like it might go through. Anyone have a similar issue? I have the stong feeling that Van's didn't do a good installation check on this during the design (a 3D removal check). To me it was natural not to install the rod during the mate, to keep it out of the way while bucking rivets.

I'm an Aero engineer specializing in structures, so I'd appreciate any comments starting out from the standpoint that NORMAL aircraft design practices are to not trap control systems if possible (and it could have been possible). If I missed the step where this rod should have been installed during the aft/center section mating, then please point where it is called out in the instructions (which would then **** me off that Van's would trap it that way). And no my fuselage doesn't have an abnormal concave situation.

As it is it looks like I'll need to do some slight die grinding work on the F-706 pass-through...

 

[scard]

I found that the key is removing both rod end bearings. Then it will assemble, otherwise, no go.

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Same experience as Scott. You must remove the rod ends. It takes a little gymnastics, but it should go if you do it right. FWIW, I made mine 1/16-1/8" extra long and it still fit.

 

[noelf]

Same as above, but I also "discovered" an alternative.

Remove the rod end closest to the wing spar. I was able to remove ONE wing spar bolt in this area (RV-6A), feed the threaded rod into the bolt hole, and then had room to maneuver the push rod into and out of the confined area.

If you have already determined the optimum push rod dimension (center of tie rod-to-center of tie rod), measure the exposed thread portion before removing the tie rod. Once back in place, juts re-measure to set the distance.

Once back in place, don't forget to reinstall the Wing Spar bolt.

 

[ROTARY7]

Thanks to all for the info. I figured the solution might require removing the rodends, it just looked visually like that might not be enough to make a difference. I was just too frustrated and the night was too late to bother trying.

If only Vans had made the F-706 recess hole 1/2" taller...

Thanks again.

Mark

 

[Brantel]

Like the others, removed the rod ends to get it in and out.

Stinks but that is one way to do it....

 

[ROTARY7]

Thanks Brian et all. One would think by the time Vans go around do designing the -7, they would have figured this one out better! Oh well, just a minor nuisance.

 

[davcor]

dont forget to file the rear spar hole (at the bottom)

dont forget to file the rear spar hole (at the bottom) where the control rod touches. This has been discussed before but I forgot and had to undo-redo to resolve.

Once you get the push rods in place and connected to your control sticks you will probably hear a 'click' when moving the stick for and aft.

I found that leaving the aft top skin open on pilot side made it easier to lean in and measure, adjust and torque seal.

Dave