What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

ElectroAir Intermittent to Not Working – replace with another Slick?

paulsmeds

Member
I picked up a new to me really nice RV-6A. Prior owner is elderly and unreachable. It has an O-360-C1A with one Slick 4373 and one Electroair Electronic EIS-1GWR installed in 2015. This is my first experience with electronic ignition. It has been intermittent and during the run up tests today completely not working so we cancelled the flight. Either I’m doing something wrong or there is something seriously wrong with it. I do not want to fly again until it is 100% repaired or replaced with a Slick.

Only checklists with are ones that have another tail number. My first question, what’s the correct procedure for startup? I’ve tried:

1. Master On, Ignition On (yellow labelled IGN switch), start. Starts easy, gauge shows 39 on the advanced timing at 1000 rpm. Run up, Left no drop, Right engine dies, back to both backfire and runs clearly only on the Left Slick.

2. Also tried, Master On, Ignition Off, start. Starts easy, then ignition on, no change. Same run up results.

In both cases, the display that shows the EI timing is 0 or off before hitting the IGN switch, then after hitting the switch seems to go around 38 to 40. So it seems it is at least powering up.

However, this is different than the prior day. Prior day used the first procedure and totally smooth both mags and flew a couple hours no issues. Some bad popping when lowering power in the pattern but otherwise no issues.

The intermittent problem has me not trusting it at all and will not fly until it is sorted out. As this is a new to me airplane, I’m leaning towards pulling out the Electroair and going back to a new Slick just so I can trust it. Please talk some sense into me because I’d love to be flying around in my new to me airplane but need to trust it long term.
 
I have no idea how your builder designed the electrical system or installed the EI, but the mere fact that the Electroair ignition has been flying for decades with good reliability indicates that the first place to look is the installation quality. After all, poor maintenance or bad installation practices can take out a magneto just as easily. Would be shame to replace the EI only to find out that the builder didn’t know how to crimp a ring terminal properly.

Thats not to say there is not something wrong with the core ignition itself, but it appears that you really have not looked into the issue very much. Get the installation manual and verify it is compliant with normal maintenance standards before you trash a functional system. Basic troubleshooting 101. Welcome to the wacky world of homebuilts and your efforts to get into the head of the builder.
 
I have no idea how your builder designed the electrical system or installed the EI, but the mere fact that the Electroair ignition has been flying for decades with good reliability indicates that the first place to look is the installation quality. After all, poor maintenance or bad installation practices can take out a magneto just as easily. Would be shame to replace the EI only to find out that the builder didn’t know how to crimp a ring terminal properly.

Thats not to say there is not something wrong with the core ignition itself, but it appears that you really have not looked into the issue very much. Get the installation manual and verify it is compliant with normal maintenance standards before you trash a functional system. Basic troubleshooting 101. Welcome to the wacky world of homebuilts and your efforts to get into the head of the builder.
Builders had 2 Slicks. Second owner switched to one Electroair Ignition in 2015. The plane has flown maybe a total of 85 hours since then and I'm unable to obtain any information on how it performed over the last 85 hours. It seems to be working fine on one startup and then not at all on another. Looks like we will be becoming experts in EI. Was just thinking a quicker path to trustworthiness would be to drop a Slick back in. I have a feeling a flood of education is coming our way which is a good thing. Step #1 is getting the installation manual and go through the troubleshooting.

I still haven't found a good reference to startup and runup testing procedures. Turn the ignition on before start? Use the standard R/L/Both switch to test for RPM drop or use the switch to turn off the EI? Just a simple checklist routine.
 
Back
Top