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Electric Rudder trim issue

S

sstellarv10

Well Known Member
For those of you that have completed the installation of electric trim in your rudder, have you found that the skin around the access cover including the cover is slightly indented compared to the surface of the skin?
 
I just finished mine this weekend and have the rudder clecoed and prosealed waiting to rivet the trailing edge. I do not see an indentation from it at all. When it is laying on its side with the trim motor in you can see a little dip, but that is the weight of the servo motor, with the motor removed or it standing up strait I have seen no problems on mine. The rudder skins seem to be a little, hum hard to explain, but flexable maybe. This bother me at first until I took a close look at the piper I have been flying and it does the same thing.
 
Everything looked great when clecoed but after it was riveted to the skin is when the problem occurred. Maybe I should have use a thicker doubler to help prevent that.

Steve Stella, Southbridge MA
Ready to order wings.
 
I'm debating on wether or not to redo it, At worse it is a esthetic issue.

Steve Stella, Southbridge MA
#40654
Ready to order wings.
 
You know Mike, I just haven't gotten around to it.

I'm still wanting to build a tab that's in-line. I've seen a few other people who have done it, but I just haven't invested the time to do it yet.

I'm really leaning toward getting the plane in the air first. Then while I have a flying RV-10, I'll pay $200 for all of the replacement rudder parts and tinker my way into an integrated trim tab.

My biggest concern has been the amount of time I could spend on that part of the plane. I think I'd rather invest that time in getting the plane off the ground and then take my time building the perfect tab.

That's just what my gut is telling me anyway.
 
Most often riveting will creat a few small ripples. Mine is not composite smooth but no worst than other places. Can you post a picture?
 
I'll post one tommorrow. It appears the access plate is inset about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch from the surface of the skin.
 
Right There with you Phil

My friends warned me that once you go off the plans - the build will crawl along.

I am not really in a hurry so I have the time, but at the same time, I'd like to keep moving along.

Anyway, I am right here starring at the 1/2 built rudder contemplating building the rudder trim - I think I have been to most of your personal build sites and PM'd several of you for info - Thanks BTW.

Here's a very quick summary of what I have found... (Not necessarily in order).

1. 2 primary ways of building this trim - A) Piano hinge method B) integrated method.

2. significant departure from the plans - and requires cutting of a perfectly nice piece of aluminum and lots and lots of time.

3. Seems to be a debate as to if it's even necessary - what I mean is - Particularly if you have a trutrak A/P system that's fitted with a yaw / trim damper (my understanding is it almost acts like a rudder interconnect) and functions with or without the A/P on. This is a very expensive option on the autopilots and only works with their top of the line - $3K +/- , one other comment - I am wondering if these top of the line autopilots are becoming more outdated as the new EFIS/GPS units are becoming more integrated and thus can do many of the same tasks as the fancy a/p? Don't know the answer to that?

4. Go fly it first, and retro it later (lots have said this). Good Advice - I have seen many posts from people who have built this trim or retrofitted it - but not a bunch flying with it - those that have flown with it - well its a mixed bag - some say its just ok not really necessary and some say they love it.

If I did build it I have decided to build an integrated one (for looks at this point because I don't know if the flight characteristics would be different?).

While I have seen very detailed descriptions of the piano hinge method - I have not seem level of detail for the integrated method? Can anyone point me to that level of detail on the integrated method?

I am 50/50 on this - The good news is I can always wait and finish it anytime.

Just some random thoughts...

Feel free to PM me if you have info or comments...

M.
 
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Mike, I am right there with you.

I have been planning all along on installing rudder trim, inset not add on.

I have run the servo wiring, and I have a stick grip with the coolie hat switch.

I figure I can wait for the actual trim tab building if things get too busy, or whatever.

At least as it stands now, I will not have to crawl into the tail cone.

And, If it never gets installed, well, I am not going to get upset over a couple of ounces of wire.
 
Rudder trim

Just removed and replaced my first rudder trim attempt. The new one is much better thanks to 'Scott the tail builder's' riveting techniques! Another experience builder said he had to do his twice also.

Practice does make perfect!
 
RV-10 rudder trim

What did I do differently the second time around?

Got the best tail kit builder in town (Thanks Scott!) to use his trailing-edge metal bar to carefully double-rivet the hinge to the trailing edge of the rudder. On the first one, I was in a big hurry and tried to use my rivet squeezer to rivet on the hinge. It produced sloppy and wavy results. The TE of the rudder is too delicate for that.
 
Rudder Trim

My Trailing edge came out fine, it was the skin that came out wavy around the doubler. Probably from too much pressure exerted on the rivets.
 
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