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Electric aileron trim instalation Question

wings05rv6a

Active Member
I am installing an electric aileron trim system. I am having a hard time figuring out, where the wires should be routed. Installation was made per Vans, EAT-1 Drawing But the drawing does not show and penetration points from the rear spar to the leading edge of the aileron. Any advised and pics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bob:confused:
 
I am installing an electric aileron trim system. I am having a hard time figuring out, where the wires should be routed. Installation was made per Vans, EAT-1 Drawing But the drawing does not show and penetration points from the rear spar to the leading edge of the aileron. Any advised and pics would be greatly appreciated.
I see that my other reply is in the RV10 forum. I just read "today's post" which lumps them altogether anyway. I did leave a bit more info with the other reply.

http://i51.tinypic.com/jt9yqv.jpg

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
Here's how I did mine...

Credit goes to Larry for answering the same question for me. I ran my wiring out the tooling hole in the forward aileron rib after I put a small rubber bushing in the hole. Inside the aileron, I soldered the servo/cable wires together and put shrink wrap a couple layers thick to stabilize those wires. I will attach it to the outer wing rib when I get to that part. Used a Dsub connector which will also attach to the wing rig before the wiring disappears into the conduit to the fuselage.
Also here's a link to you tube where I tested the whole electrical process.
http://www.youtube.com/v/aCgqDBkgZM0?hl=en&fs=1

o40.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the video

Nice job, Wendell. I just finished mine and will be hooking up for a test run like you did. Did you have any trouble with the actuator arm or other adjustments?
 
Servo tilt angle makes a difference.

My mount was rather shallow angled. If I had to do it again, I would have spent more time bending a greater angle in the mount before riveting. Because of that, I had to lengthen the actuator arm cut out slot in the bottom aileron skin. Shallow angle equals longer slot. Steeper angle equals shorter slot. Either ways is ok. If the arm touches the skin at full deflection, just file the slot longer to avoid contact. Don't be too concerned about total overall movement up and down. In reality, you won't use the full deflections. At least that's what I'm told. Something like 10 degrees either way will do what you want. Make sure your threaded rod is more than half way into each clevis before you lock it with the nuts. On the trim tab, I had trouble keeping one of the rotating cotter pins, which secures the hinge pin in place, from contacting the aileron skin during full deflection as the hinge eye rotated. Finally got it after bringing one leg over and into the end of the hinge eye where it tucked into the 1/8 inch empty space, and the other wrapped tight around the hinge eye. No real problems with the electric operation.
 
In reality, you won't use the full deflections. At least that's what I'm told. Something like 10 degrees either way will do what you want.

I'd say that's close. When I originally had a "heavy wing"..........full deflection wouldn't totally correct it. The heavy wing was caused by one aileron being fatter than the other on the trailing edge. Some quick and simple squeezing took care of that. Now my aileron trim tab, looks like it's hardly displaced, although I trim all the time with it.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
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