Van's Air Force
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Edge Rolling Tool
- Thread starter morsesc
- Start date
Sid Lambert
Well Known Member
I used it on the wing skins of my -7. I used it in many other areas as well. Fuse skins, interior panels and radio surrounding in the boat just to name a few.
Well worth the few dollars for the tool.
As for the -12. I know pop rivets may not distort the aluminum as much as solid rivets but I would still put a small bend on any overlapping skins.
Well worth the few dollars for the tool.
As for the -12. I know pop rivets may not distort the aluminum as much as solid rivets but I would still put a small bend on any overlapping skins.
steve wyman
Well Known Member
I did not use the edge rolling tool (although I have one) on any of the wing skins. It's simply not necessary! The edges of the skins lay down nice and flat as is. I understand that we may need to use the edge tool on some of the fuselage skins, though. Steve
edge rolling tool
I am using it (carefully) on mine. The way I see it, it only take a few minutes and then I am sure of a good edge. Hard to tell how good it will be be until it is riveted and once that is done, it would be very time consuming to fix if there was a gap. I actually wish I had put a bit more of an edge bend on the bottom of the wing walk doubler (although I am not sure that would have even helped). There is a bit of a gap between rivets. Anyone else experienced this (I saw at least one other builder's picture that looked the same)? At least it is on the bottom of the wing.
I am using it (carefully) on mine. The way I see it, it only take a few minutes and then I am sure of a good edge. Hard to tell how good it will be be until it is riveted and once that is done, it would be very time consuming to fix if there was a gap. I actually wish I had put a bit more of an edge bend on the bottom of the wing walk doubler (although I am not sure that would have even helped). There is a bit of a gap between rivets. Anyone else experienced this (I saw at least one other builder's picture that looked the same)? At least it is on the bottom of the wing.
When edge rolling is need it is supposed to be called out in the construction manual.
If it was not called out in the wing manual, it is because it was not found to be necessary for tight skin edges.
If it was not called out in the wing manual, it is because it was not found to be necessary for tight skin edges.
vlittle
Well Known Member
Although edge rolling is not required for many of the lap joints, there is another problem to avoid.
During painting, the paint shop will have to wash down your aircraft a few times. Water can creep into the lap joints and bubble up when paint is applied.
The fix to this is make sure the paint shop dries the aircraft completely, or you may wish to seal the seams.
This can be done after assembly by running a small bead of proseal or other polyurethane sealant along the seam (NOT Silicone, it will interfere with the paint).
Vern
During painting, the paint shop will have to wash down your aircraft a few times. Water can creep into the lap joints and bubble up when paint is applied.
The fix to this is make sure the paint shop dries the aircraft completely, or you may wish to seal the seams.
This can be done after assembly by running a small bead of proseal or other polyurethane sealant along the seam (NOT Silicone, it will interfere with the paint).
Vern
MartySantic
Well Known Member
All of skins are perfectly flat, no need for edge rolling. The only exception was the inboard wing doubler where I had to use the tool to get a nice, clean fit.
Use the vice grip thingie
I used an edge roller on all of my overlapping skins and they look great. As far as I know, there are two basic types of edge rollers. There is the plastic disc, which does not work very well, and then there is the one made out of vice grip pliers, with the edge rollers welded on. The vice grip thingie works much better. I think that Cleveland Tools sells them.
I used an edge roller on all of my overlapping skins and they look great. As far as I know, there are two basic types of edge rollers. There is the plastic disc, which does not work very well, and then there is the one made out of vice grip pliers, with the edge rollers welded on. The vice grip thingie works much better. I think that Cleveland Tools sells them.
cytoxin
Well Known Member
did not roll. no lap joints lifted or pillowed.
i thought the avery tool was junk until i learned how to really use it well. because the vise grips caused me some pain.
. i prefer it over the vise grips ..the vise grips will walk onto and off of an edge.
just when you least expect it.
YMMV
i thought the avery tool was junk until i learned how to really use it well. because the vise grips caused me some pain.
. i prefer it over the vise grips ..the vise grips will walk onto and off of an edge.just when you least expect it.
YMMV
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Cleavelands edge rolling tool works great, but it must be mastered. Good sheet metal techniques take many hours (really years) to perfect, If you want to know what I mean look at one of those hand crafted all aluminum wheel pants and cowl. Those artist's use a shot bag, hammer and English wheel to stretch, shrink and form metal like you wouldn't believe.
All lap joints benefit from a slight edge bend, honest guys, if done right it is a water tight fit...wanna get really creative? Hone down the underside to mate with the lower skin and seal the top to the bottom. It's a matter of how nice do you want the finished product to look...and what your level of craftsmanship and acceptable (to you!) finished product are.
Not saying anyone is a hack...but really how fast do you want to get done and in the air? Makes a difference in your decision to say "good enough"
My RV-10 is several hundred builder numbers behind many of the flying ones, because I for example, honed the top overlapping skin to match the underlying bottom skin, among many other things that took time, won't affect performance but I felt impacted appearance.
I fall off both sides of the fence and usually end up on the appearance side, as long as it doesn't jeapordize structural integrity, then the fly side...YMMV.. just depends on what's the most important aspect to you.
All lap joints benefit from a slight edge bend, honest guys, if done right it is a water tight fit...wanna get really creative? Hone down the underside to mate with the lower skin and seal the top to the bottom. It's a matter of how nice do you want the finished product to look...and what your level of craftsmanship and acceptable (to you!) finished product are.
Not saying anyone is a hack...but really how fast do you want to get done and in the air? Makes a difference in your decision to say "good enough"
My RV-10 is several hundred builder numbers behind many of the flying ones, because I for example, honed the top overlapping skin to match the underlying bottom skin, among many other things that took time, won't affect performance but I felt impacted appearance.
I fall off both sides of the fence and usually end up on the appearance side, as long as it doesn't jeapordize structural integrity, then the fly side...YMMV.. just depends on what's the most important aspect to you.
Any suggestions on the best way to use it?
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
The round plastic model with two wheels was my favorite also.
I'd put the skin on a wood bench, or partical board shelving material. Pull the edge of the skin out from the edge of the table/shelve.............and make some practice runs with scrap. Try to make the complete run from one edge to the other in a single pass, so that it's uniform. With a bit of practice, the bend is slight enough to do it's job, but you won't see a crease.
L.Adamson --- RV6A
