Drilling plexi to Slider frame?

[Rick_A]

I'm not sure of the best way to drill the plexi to the slider frame. The instructions are to drill #40 through the plexi and frame then cleo them together. The smallest plexi drill bit I can find is .125, which is closer to a #30 (.1285).

From what I can tell, I should NOT use a standard (#40) drill bit on the plexi. If I use the .125 plexi bit, I'll be drilling into the steel tube before I get all the way through the plexi - in which case the plexi bit will probably get dull very quickly.

So which drill bit should I use? Should I drill through the plexi with the .125 until I hit steel then switch to a standard #40?

Any hints of tips will be much appreciated.

 

[pierre smith]

Use the plexi drill

Hi Rick,
Don't even THINK of using a standard drill bit on your plexiglass or you'll be buying a new one soon! That bit will split the canopy very quickly!

Just drill as far as you can with the plexi bit and it will leave a little dimple in the frame. You can lift the canopy just a little, enough to go through with the plexi bit. When you've finished all the holes in the canopy, drill the frame with the regular bit. Another way is to drill the frame with the canopy in place and drill through the existing holes into the frame, clecoing as you go.
Cheers,

 

[Jeff Vaughan]

Plexi drilling

You can use a regular bit for the first hole only. You must use a plexi bit to enlarge the hole. Follow Vans plans here. You want to counter sink the plexi before you enlarge with the plexi drill bits. Reread and go slow. High rpms and very little pressure is all that is needed. You sort of melt the plexi

 

[Kyle Boatright]

To clarify some earlier remarks, it is generally considered OK to drill the first hole in the plexi to #40 using a conventional bit. That allows you to continue the hole into the canopy frame. Later you come back and enlarge the original holes in the plexi with either plexi drills, a unibit, or a conventional bit that has been modified so it doesn't grab the plexi.

 

[RV7ator]

As above, initial #40 thru the works.

Open with a 5/32 plexi drill off the frame, available from the usual suppliers. The #40's thru the frame are opened #30. Don't do any drilling out of #40 holes until you're absolutely sure of the entire canopy fit-up including all skirts. That way clecos will always grab same-size holes, and you have a bit of wiggle room if you want to move a hole center a tad.

Don't enlarge plexi holes until you c'sink for the #30 dimple or #6 screw dimple; you need some guidance for the cutter pilot, and you'll deeply regret a c'sink if you're using a hole duplicator to drill the skirts.

Watch out for the special hole size for the MK-319-BS rivets. Drill these #40, dimple, then open to final.

Oh, yeah. Van's dimensions for predrilling holes that join rear and side skirts, and rear skirts to frame just don't work; it's very dependent on what looks good to you after you trim skirt edges, and watch for rivet interferences around the rear pin.

John Siebold
-7, 198 hrs
-7, -350 hrs and counting