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Dreaded Subject of Priming Again

gblwy

gblwy

Well Known Member
I'm based in Scotland. Lots of damp weather and close to the sea. In fact, from time to time, I fly to Barra "airfield", which allegedly is the only beach in the world with daily scheduled commercial flights. As an aside the schedules vary with the tide. Makes a change from excuses about congestion in the skies ;-)

So I propose to prime my aircraft throughout...

Also, being in the UK, I am still awaiting permission from the powers-that-be to start building. Accordingly, my garage is starting to fill up with wing and now fuselage boxes, so I want to be doing something, anything.

Is there any downside to prepping and priming all parts now? Alternatively, any compelling reason why I should be patient and wait, then prime them in sequence as I get to that part of the build?

I'd be delighted if anyone who is well on with the build can advise whether it's OK to go ahead or advisable to hold off for the time being.

Thanks...Keith
 
There isn't a problem priming everything at once, way back when I built my -6 thats how I did it.
 
metal finishing

This little description of anodizing might provide food for thoughts on keeping it light. Environmental and personal safety issues would also have to be considered. Some of it is tongue-in-cheek, so take care. Sam

Anodizing for beginners

First get your standard lead acid battery acid - 30% sulphuric acid
Next get some lead flashing sheet.
Get a large glass or acid resistant container.
Line the inside with lead sheet - this is the cathode (-).
Fill to desired depth with acid solution.
Immerse aluminum (attached to + wire) to be treated while applying about
12 V DC.
Adjust voltage to achieve about 12 amperes / square foot.
The acid bath must be kept cold usually in an ice filled outer container.
After about 5 minutes, lift the work out & rinse in iced water.
The metal will now have a thin jelly coating of Al2O3
If you dip it into a water based die this will enter the gel
Rise off excess with cold water.
Plunge into boiling water - The gel "sets", trapping the dye, resulting in a hard oxide layer.
The longer the electrolysis - the deeper the gel (Up o a point where it all goes pear shape & falls off or cracks).
5 minutes is a good starting point.
For small parts just use a car battery & don't worry about current density.

The secrets - degrease parts first - keep acid COLD.
Otherwise simple apart from the holes in the jeans etc.
Oh - watch out for the liberated H2 - it ignites real easy
 
Short of creating a hazmat condition in my shop is there a rattle can primer anyone can suggest? Would the Duplicolor primer be a good choice?
 
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Although still hazardous, many are using rattle can Marhyde (available here at O'Reily Auto Parts), or NAPA 7220 (avialable at NAPA Auto Parts). You might want to check on Deft primer. Deft, I believe, is water based and is the primer that Glastar uses. (Don't know about its hazard level). A forum search should give you information on each of them.

I am using the Sherwin Williams P60-G2 primer on at least one of each mating surface applying it with a small foam brush. Using Marhyde on the non-alclad parts.
 
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Off topic Q for GBL

GBL writes...Also, being in the UK, I am still awaiting permission from the powers-that-be to start building.

A bit off topic, but I have a question for you if you don't mind.

Does this mean that you need the government's permission to build an airplane in the U K? If so, why? It it a tax or an uber-control thing?

Thanks much!

- - Tom in Sacramento
 
UK Building

Tom,

It is a bit off thread but the reason we cannot start in UK is because the LAA (Light Aircraft Association) who oversee and inspect all homebuilds in UK have not yet given permission to start work. This is because they require the design package from Van's for review and although I understand the LAA and Van's have been talking, no progress has been made. Time to chase this up again I think.

Jim D
 
Jim,

In the US, the -12 hasn't received S-LSA status, but we can build. We just can't get and airworthiness certificate yet. The UK powers-that-be can keep you from driving (or pulling in this case) rivets?

--Bill
 
Larry,

I prefer the Napa 7220 over the Marhyde but both are available locally at autoparts stores.

Bob
 
bcondrey said:
Larry,

I prefer the Napa 7220 over the Marhyde but both are available locally at autoparts stores.

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob, just curious why the preference? I've been using 7220 also, but was thinking of trying the Marhyde out of curiousity. BTW, our NAPA store doesn't carry "NAPA 7220", it's "Marin-Senour 7220". Same stuff I suppose. It's the most expensive primer in the store and (naturally therefore) what they recommend.
Regards,
Dave.
 
Brave man being the first to build. I'm onto the wings of a -10 but let Roger do the hard work!

Try paints4u.co.uk - they do a 2-part etch called Fix-O-Dur Green (it's actually grey....). They also sell a mini spray gun which is great for the small parts. If you want rattle cans then there is Acid#8 Etch. You can also get this at Halfords.

You want to deburr/flute etc before priming so I guess technically you would be building..........;)

Good Luck
 
to prime or not to prime ... that is the question!

Correct me if I'm wrong ... but if you order any Van's Quick Build kits, don't the wings and fuselage come almost completed and unprimed? :confused: :rolleyes: :confused: :rolleyes:
 
Priming

Hi Gerry,

Traditionally, Van's quick build components receive a 'wash prime' during
mfg. I'm not sure of the current processes or what materials they use.
You may find details on Van's web site.

Cheers,

Sam
 
KRAUSEGB said:
HAS ANYONE USED SEM SELF ETCHING PRIMER?? COMES IN A 15.5 OZ. RATTLE CAN.
Click to expand...

If you check the primer forum a few people have used it with satisfactory results. I would consider using it if I could find a local source but have not found any.
 
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