DRDT-2 for back riveting?

[Scott Will]

Never seen one in person so don't laught if it's a stupid question.

Can the DRDT-2 be used in back riveting operations? Put some flat sets in and use it as a big squeezer?

 

[Brantel]

Scott,

The normal one is built out of 3/16" tubing but I built mine out of 1/4" and it will still flex slightly while dimpling. Never have tried to squeeze a rivet but I would think that it would flex too much on a #4 rivet.

The cam action on the toggle seams like it would most likely not have the correct cam/stroke/pressure ratio to make squeezing easy.

I will try a test run today and let you know how it works out.

 

[Brantel]

Well Scott
I tried it and you might be able to make it work for #3 rivets, but when I tried #4's it became a problem. Not so much the flexing (which it did) but I had to adjust the ram three times to squeeze a #4-4 rivet. The toggle/clamp action does not have the correct ratios to give you enough leverage early in the stroke.

Also, the flexing tends to allow the dies to be out of alignment enough to tip the rivet.

 

[Scott Will]

Thanks Brian! Appreciate the quick turn around on the real world test. I was thinking that the DRDT-2 could be used to set all those rivets on the rudder and elevators where you have to back rivet a lot. So you're saying it'll probably work for all those AN426AD3 rivets?


Which part of the DRDT is made out of 3/16 or 1/4 tubing?

 

[DarylT]

Scott

The instructions that came with my DRDT said to not use it for riveting at all. I belive I have seen posts on this forum saying the same thing.

 

[Brantel]

Thanks Brian! Appreciate the quick turn around on the real world test. I was thinking that the DRDT-2 could be used to set all those rivets on the rudder and elevators where you have to back rivet a lot. So you're saying it'll probably work for all those AN426AD3 rivets?


Which part of the DRDT is made out of 3/16 or 1/4 tubing?

Scott,

The factory framework is built and designed to 3/16" tubing, I used 1/4" when I built my homemade frame because that is what I had available.

I do not know if the 3/16" frame would be strong enough for 3/32 rivets.

It did squeeze the test AN426AD3 rivet. Seems though that all the setup, stabilizing the work, etc. It would be just as easy to do the regular backriveting method.

 

[Pmerems]

Back Rivet At Your Own Risk!!!

Gents,

I do not recommend using the DRDT-2 to set 3/32 rivets for the following reasons.

1. Perfect vertical alignment of the tool is needed to eliminate the tipping of the rivet. Flex in the frame and clamping systems can increase the vertical misalignment causing tipping.

2. The force required to setting 3/32 rivets is much greater then the forces required for dimpling. Setting rivets
with the DRDT-2 may cause premature wear of the clamping system leading to the need to replace the clamp.

I have tested the DRDT-2 for back riveting 3/32 and the results were not consistent enough to market the DRDT-2 for riveting.

Back rivet at your own risk.

 

[Brantel]

Hey Scott,

An idea just popped into my head. Why not just use a C-frame for riveting these? It has a long reach and will hold the sets in perfect alignment with each other. Some will even work with a rivet gun. Others you can just whack with a hammer. Many a spar were built using these this way, should work just as well in your application.

Been using one all weekend like this for riveting the F704 together. Works great!