This means that both sides should be countersunk or dimpled so that both ends of the rivet are essentially flush. On my -9a this is so the gear mount doesn't interfere with those rivet shop heads, may be the same for you. The forward bottom skin is dimpled, and the center bottom skin and spar flange are countersunk to accept that dimple. Then, the inside of the spar flange is also slightly countersunk so that the rivet shop head sits a little more flush. In many cases I believe it doesn't need to be completely flush, so I just lightly countersunk the inside rather than remove a lot of material. Many people on the 7a and 9a noted no clearance issues here even without making them double flush. Obviously the 10 will be different however.
If you have ever done riveted trailing edges, it's the same concept.
Chris