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Door locks/keys

dhmoose said:
Does anyone know if the iflyrv10 flush door locks (the locks, not the flush handles) can be keyed to work with the Aircraft Spruce ignition switch Keys (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/igswitches6.php)? It would be nice to have flush locks on the doors that operate with the same key as the ignition switch and baggage door.

How have others gone about their door locks?
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You would have to get an answer from a locksmith.

With that said, you really don't want the iflyrv10 locks. They are too long and will protude through the inside door skin. In my opinion, kind of tacky looking.

ACS locks will fit inside the door becuase they are a little shorter. The problem with the ACS locks is that their standard kit has only two locks, when we need three. You can special order from ACS a common key lock set w two more additional locks. You'll have an extra lock left over.

I had the iflyrv10 locks and sold them. I now have the ACS locks, but have yet to install them in the doors.
 
rleffler said:
You would have to get an answer from a locksmith.

With that said, you really don't want the iflyrv10 locks. They are too long and will protude through the inside door skin. In my opinion, kind of tacky looking.

ACS locks will fit inside the door becuase they are a little shorter. The problem with the ACS locks is that their standard kit has only two locks, when we need three. You can special order from ACS a common key lock set w two more additional locks. You'll have an extra lock left over.

I had the iflyrv10 locks and sold them. I now have the ACS locks, but have yet to install them in the doors.
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I have the Iflyrv10 locks and had no problem with them protruding through the inside door skin. Maybe that is because I also have their flush handles, so I have an access panel on the inside of the door that stock door handle airplanes do not have? First I have heard of that particular problem.

Sorry about the thread hijack. I don't know if the locks will work with the ACS ignition keys. As Bob said, a locksmith can answer that question.
 
dmaib said:
I have the Iflyrv10 locks and had no problem with them protruding through the inside door skin
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Flush locks or protruding locks? My flush locks are very very close...and that's after modifying the screw head to about 1/2 it's original thickness.

BTW, I'd imagine the different tumblers could be keyed alike...just as long as they use the same key blank.

-Jim
 
Thanks

I appreciate the help. I didn't know if a locksmith could answer the question without seeing the parts ( I don't have the flush locks in my possession). I'll call around and find out what info I can dig up. Thanks again!
 
fehdxl said:
Flush locks or protruding locks? My flush locks are very very close...and that's after modifying the screw head to about 1/2 it's original thickness.

BTW, I'd imagine the different tumblers could be keyed alike...just as long as they use the same key blank.

-Jim
Click to expand...

Flush locks. They are close, but do not cause a problem. I suspect the access panel for my flush handles gives them the small amount of extra room they need.
 
I don't know about the ifly locks, but was told by a locksmith that the ACS locks cannot be rekeyed.

Jim Berry
 
It is possible to rekey the locks, as long as the key fits in the lock. If you remove the lock cylander with the key inserted you can file the tumblers down so they will match the key.

That being said, if you haven't done it before or seen it done you should consult a locksmith. If you do it incorrectly you will not be able to operate the lock with either of the keys, and you'll just end up having to buy a new lock.
 
dmaib said:
Flush locks. They are close, but do not cause a problem. I suspect the access panel for my flush handles gives them the small amount of extra room they need.
Click to expand...

This is the only install I've seen. It may be that Steve has supplied different cylinders over time. This one was like the ones I had and why I switched to the ACS locks (plus the advantage of keying the same as the ignition). The head of the screw protrudes through the inner skin. Perhaps there is a better way of mounting that wasn't apparent to me. It may also be where in the door you place the lock.


Image-5187035-108279987-3-WebLarge_0_698e768c28cd708f30e208bc03066436_1
 
I've been thinking about how to lock the doors and have some doubts about the whole thing:

- the pax door handle can be secured with a lap-strap - easy.

- my first idea for a latch was to cut a slot in the door rail and use a baggage door lock. Not such a good idea though. Firstly, the door rail is structural and secondly the door itself could be easily jimmied and the fiberglass would just break. Could be reinforced with some aluminium backing.

- then I thought about trying to make some sort of "wheel-clamp" type device that would fit over the handle so you can't get access to the button to unlock the door. To be robust enough, it would have to be made of steel so not so easy to put together. Also a bit clumsy.

- take the handle off? Too much wear and tear and vice grip could be used.

- I hadn't thought about the above solution which interferes with the latch mechanism. I'm pretty sure I can use my spare baggage door lock to make that work so only one key to worry about.

The only other thing that occurred to me was that with all these solutions, the actual door structure is not that strong and so anyone really intent on getting in could. The avionics are expensive and on the face of it a valuable target. But is that really the case? How easy would it be to sell any of it on? And if you are on an airfield, you already have one level of security. Perhaps a simple fabric cover which hides everything and has to be taken off would be enough deterrent against a casual thief.

Overall, though, I like this solution here. I have 4 weeks leave starting next week - 3 weeks aircraft building (and moving to the hangar!!) and a week's golf :D I'll see if I can incorporate this idea.
 
Paul,

I originally thought of doing some sort of bomb-proof lock system, but decided if they really want my avionics, they could just break out a window(really don't want to replace a window, especially away from home). I do want some protection from someone just reaching in and snatching headsets or iPads, etc. I did locks like bleffler, and think they meet my requirements. If someone forced the lock or jimmied the door, I probably could still fly home, and a door repair would be easier than a window.

You can special order 4 keyed-alike locks from ACS.

Jim Berry
RV-10
 
I did something similar to Bob. However I tucked it in right beside the block and already recessed area of the door. That way i did not have to cut the door. The passenger side just has a simple pin going through the handle to secure the release button.
 
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