Dimplin Rudder Skins Prior to Priming

[ditobrazil]

Hi guys!
Early contruction phase by a total rookie, so please excuse if it sounds too obvious.
I?m going with priming in the hole plane. Just match drilled stiffners to the rudder skins and should be deburring and dimpling soon. So here the problem: Should I finish the ruder skeleton and match drill, deburr and dimple every hole in the skin before priming?

Thanks!

 

[Gary 40274]

I prime just before riviting the whole structure together, not as each section is match drilled.

Gary Specketer

 

[mculver]

Am working on the rudder on my 9 today too... Primed the inside (only) of the skins, and also the stiffeners, just before assembly -- but after debur and dimple. BTW, found a number of comments in other threads that recommended ProSeal under the stiffeners to prevent cracks in the rudder skin. Another subject; however might be worth searching threads.

Going to prime the ribs, etc., in the next day or two. Still dimpling them though.

I make no claims with regard to knowing what I am doing, so take my approach as my opinion only.

 

[Chris Meredith]

I started out drilling, deburring and dimpling all of the pieces before priming (I was also scrubbing the pieces with Alumaprep and alodining them as well). I've since decided to simplify my prep procedures and have eliminated the Alumaprep and alodine. I now simply roughen the surface of the parts with a red scotchbrite pad, clean with MEK and prime. I discovered that dimples had a tendency to shred the scotchbrite pads and made priming a little more challenging because they shadowed parts of the pieces I was shooting. Based on some recommendations I've read on this forum, I switched to priming first and then dimpling. It makes surface prep and priming a bit easier with a smooth surface.

I've found no discernible difference in the result so do what's easiest or you're most comfortable with. My only recommendation if you dimple last is to make sure you give the primer plenty of time to cure before dimpling. Otherwise it tends to flake the primer a bit around the hole. I was using AKZO by the way - so it was pretty tough stuff. YMMV with other primers.

 

[bruceh]

If you choose to proseal the trailing wedge on the rudder, then be sure to mask off that portion of the interior skins before you prime.

I have been using the AKZO primer on everything and it is much easier to dimple after you prime. The AKZO holds up extremely well to dimpling.

 

[panhandler1956]

I primed each individual part, especially where once it is riveted it will be inaccessible. That is probably overkill. I little tip that will save your scotchbrite pads, make sure you scuff the skins (inside) prior to dimpling so they don't wear out as easy.