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Deburring Wings

spriteah

Active Member
Hello fellow builders.

I have a simple question. Im at the stage of attaching wing skins. Do you need to debur every rivet hole? And is that on both sides. I notice that there is a slight edge on the outside of the skin. After I debur with a 100 degree cut it clears but sometimes my cut is not perfect.

Also the clecos even slightly mark the surface. So if someone can explain to what level I am trying to achieve that would be great.

Thanks in Advance.

Jim
Geelong Australia.
 
This subject has come up at various times and I beleive the consesus has been as follows. The holes that have been pre-punched by Van's do not require any type of deburring. The holes that you drill should be deburred. It does not take very much at all to do this. All you want to do is remove the burr, with a deburring bit, NOT countersink the hole.

With regard to the edges, all machining marks should be removed. If you run a fingernail over the edge, every 8-10" or so you will feel a "hump". The machining marks and these "humps" should be removed using a file, sandpaper, or a scotchbrite wheel. Then remove the curl using a deburring blade or sandpaper held at a 45 deg angle to the edge. The "humps" are created when the skin or part is sheared/cut. Would not worry about a cleco mark.

That's what I have been doing!! Hope it helps....
 
Here's what I do

Any hole that I drill is deburred each side. The prepunched holes do have a bit of a burr on the off side of the punch and I have been deburring all of these on that side. Probably not really necessary, but I have plenty of time and a lot of the kits and options are not even available yet, so why hurry? On the skin edges I use a big sharp Nicolson file that just slides along and takes off those humps. Then a Royal deburring tool to get the burr off the edges. For the little parts the small file assortment in the Avery tool kit work well, but unless you chalk up these files with blackboard chalk they really load up with aluminum. Any part that I can get access to on my 6" SB wheel in a drill press gets the edges smoothed with this great tool. On the rib holes and such I knock off the big sharp burrs with a half-round file then use the 1 inch scotch brite wheels in my battery drill on high speed. Then a deburring tool on the edges. The wing ribs are a ton of work.
I think everyone eventually works out a system that works well for them, and they are probably all different.

Tony
 
Answer from Van's - prepunched holes

I asked Van's about the prepunched holes:

Question:The punched rivet holes of the RV12 kit looks quite "clean" already. Deburring with a deburring tool takes away material quite fast.
Just to make sure; do you have to debur both sites of the prepunched holes or maybe just the site of the skin/ribs were the punch came out?
Or is using a 3M pad enough to debur those holes? Or is it just necessary to do both sites to relief the stress of the punch.

Answer:Joeri, using a deburring tool just make one light turn around the hole. That's
all that is needed. Some folks are not doing anything. We think is should be done.

Rob at Vans
 
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