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Deburring tool

Av8torTom

Av8torTom

Well Known Member
I got the dog leg hole deburring tool that comes with the Avery bare bones tool kit. It doesn't seem to work - almost as if the cutting bit was never properly sharpened. When I try and deburr a hole it mostly mashes the burrs flat and does very little cutting. Anyone have a similar experience or suggestions? - yes, I'm turning it the correct way :)

Thanks,

Tom
 
608294707_4T2zo-M.jpg

You are talking about the yellow one on the right?

There are several different interchangable bits in the handle. Sometimes one will work better than the others depending on the material, size, etc.
Have you tried using the other bits?
 
Assuming its the one Bruce pointed out... I wasn't all that fond of it. Or any of the others really. (And the yellow one seemed most useful on edges vs. holes.)

I've found I prefer the oversize drill bit on holes, and the scotch-brite wheel on edges. (Keep in mind, I've only built the training kit.)
 
The one on the left

No, the black one on the left. the bit just seems to be really dull and doesn't cut well at all.
 
I have the same complaint about the black one. The tip unscrews, so you can replace it with one that actually works.

I have a variety of other tools that came with another builder's tool set, so the black one just lives in the drawer.
 
Mike S said:
I found that a one hole bit works much better for me than a three flute.

Cleveland sells them, including one that has a hex shank, this is what I use in a cheap electric screwdriver.

http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DBB40
Click to expand...

I'll add another vote for this one-hole style bit. I get chattering from the three-flute cutter no matter how I use it, but get a nice smooth result from the one-hole bit every time.
John
 
The black one on the left was a cheapy deburring tool I picked up at Harbor Freight for $2. Works like **** compared to the light yellow one from Avery in the middle. Main problem is the extended length of the main shaft makes it hard to control.
 
I'll chime in here too, I guess, and cast my vote for the one-hole bit from Cleaveland Tools. No chattering, sharp as can be, works like a charm. Get one. You won't be sorry.
 
Drill bits

I have found that sometimes an oversize drill bit work just as fast and better than anything with a 100 degree cutter.

Depending on how the hole was drilled, especially if the drill bit is less than real sharp, the burrs may be pressed out to the side. By the time you use a countersink as a deburring tool to remove them, the hole has been excessively deburred. Drill bits have a 118 degree included angle which makes them a little "flatter".

I hold the drill bit as square as possible to the hole and twirl it between finger and thumb using as little pressure as possible so the bit won't cut in. Seems to do a real good job.

The only other recommendation I have is the E-Z burr tool (I think that is the correct name) which deburrs both sides in one pass. It can quickly over-deburr as well but works in tight spots.

Dave A.
6A build
 
FYI... A Van's rep at Arlington told me that at the factory they deburr rows of rivet holes in skins with a scotchbrite pad. It's a lot faster, as you can deburr a whole row in a couple of passes. And there's no chance of over-deburring and leaving a chamfered hole.
 
Snowflake said:
FYI... A Van's rep at Arlington told me that at the factory they deburr rows of rivet holes in skins with a scotchbrite pad. It's a lot faster, as you can deburr a whole row in a couple of passes. And there's no chance of over-deburring and leaving a chamfered hole.
Click to expand...

We used to use these in aircraft manufacturing (copied from Cleveland)

3M DIAPADS SELECT GRIT 60 GRIT - GREEN 120 GRIT - BLACK 200 GRIT - RED 400 GRIT - YELLOW QTY -NONE- 1 2 3 4 5

Flexible foam pad with diamond abrasive on a flexible surface.
3.75" x 2.25"
Use wet or dry, doesn't load up or wear out like sandpaper.
 
I used the single hole deburring bit from cleaveland but actually had bad luck with it. It works great in #30 holes and doesn't work that good in #40 holes. In #40 holes I found that it deburred very smoothly but left a sharp edge at the top of deburring edge. This made my rivets sit high to the metal. I thought this was what I was trying to get rid of so I switched to the light yellow one in the middle from Avery. Yes it does chatter if you press hard, but if you go light it bevels the metal edge real nicely with a minimum of chatter so the rivets sit tight.
 
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