De Burring question

[Trevor778]

Hi everyone, ran a quick search and couldn't find the answer I was looking for. I spent the better part of tonight putting my VS together and found that Im quickly starting to dislike de burring the interior side of the rib flanges. Just looking for any tricks you may have. Thanks in advance for the Replys.

Trevor

 

[hendrik]

I run them over the Scotch Brite wheel on the bench grinder (yes, this is a scrap part):

 

[Paul K]

Edge de Burring

Been there, Done that. This is how I did/do it.

First, de burr before you flute the flanges.

Use a die grinder with the 1" Scotch Bright wheel. Avery, 5 bucks or something like that. It's really fast and will save you tens of hours over the life of the project and you will find a lot of other used for these small wheels and for the die grinder. One of the best tools on the bench, use it all the time.

Finally, a Scott Pad pinched between your fingers works pretty well also.

Hope this helps.

 

[Trevor778]

Those were the replys I was looking for. I was hoping hitting em with some scotch bright was acceptable. Thanks guys

 

[DCat22]

I quickly ended up with that method, even just building the practice kits... Might almost call it fun.

Since then, any metal (most recently the sliding door to a cribbage board) with sharp edges goes out the shop for a deburring. It becomes an obsession...

 

[Mike S]

De-burring

Might almost call it fun.

You are sick.

Since then, any metal with sharp edges goes out the shop for a deburring. It becomes an obsession...

Really sick.........

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

As mentioned above, you really need to debur before you flute and then use a small scotchbrite wheel on your die grinder. Eventually you get a groove on the wheel that nicely deburrs both edges of the flange at the same time. Also works great on wing skins.

 

[N941WR]

Just don't mix steel and aluminum parts on the same rebutting wheel, sandpaper, etc.

 

[GAHco]

I like de-burring, its priming that I don't like

I de-burr holes very fast wit my right angle drill at about 200 rpm regulated with very low air pressure. Just enough that if I press too hard the bit stops,
Works great!

For edges I use the yellow 3m sandpaper 320 grit where I cant get my 8 inch fine mill file. Put some electrical tape in the very tip of the file to keep from scratching the parts like the inside of angles.

 

[MJarreau]

I've been wondering about this....

N941WR said:

Just don't mix steel and aluminum parts on the same rebutting wheel, sandpaper, etc.

Is this strictly related to deburring? In other words, can I reasonably use all other tools on both materials?

Thanks!

 

[Flying Scotsman]

Cogsdill Burraway. Does both sides of the hole in one pass, makes a nice, clean hole.

Oh, and remember to put your battery-powered drill down on it's side, or it will fall over and bend your nice Burraway tool, ruining it. Ask me how I know.

 

[Mike S]

N941WR said:


Is this strictly related to deburring? In other words, can I reasonably use all other tools on both materials?

Thanks!

Grinding wheel is a really bad one for this.

Minute particles of alum, and iron can get mixed together, and then a spark, or hi head from the friction of use, ignites the particles.

Try googleing "thermite" for a bit of interesting data.

 

[Snowflake]

Grinding wheel is a really bad one for this. Minute particles of alum, and iron can get mixed together, and then a spark, or hi head from the friction of use, ignites the particles. Try googleing "thermite" for a bit of interesting data.

I'm about 90% sure this is an urban myth, even after googling. There's a lot of hype but little evidence to support this.

A better reason not to mix grinding steel and aluminum on the same tool is that you'll embed particles of steel in your aluminum parts. They will rust eventually, even if painted over. Personally I find this to be a much stronger deterrent than any theoretical risk of an explosion.

 

[DCat22]

Well... if nothing else, you really don't want to get aluminum in a steel (hard, carborundum) grinding wheel. The aluminum it picks up can cause it to explode.

However.. I admit, I've done fine work on a little steel on my "dirty" scotchbrite wheel.

 

[MJarreau]

Thanks to all....

I appreciate the time each of you took to answer my question. I understand about the grinding wheel. My real question was more about drill bits, reamers, saw blades, and so on.

Mike, I will look up thermite.

Cheers!

 

[tadsargent]

Ignition of a thermite reaction normally requires only a simple child's sparkler or easily obtainable magnesium ribbon, but may require persistent efforts, as ignition can be unreliable and unpredictable. These temperatures cannot be reached with conventional black powder fuses, nitrocellulose rods, detonators, pyrotechnic initiators, or other common igniting substances. Even when the thermite is hot enough to glow bright red, it will not ignite as it must be at or near white-hot to initiate the reaction. It is possible to start the reaction using a propane torch if done correctly. The torch can preheat the entire pile of thermite which will make it explode instead of burning slowly when it finally reaches ignition temperature. Wikipedia

Been trying to ignite the aluminum and iron dust my deburr wheel makes just so I dont have to sweep it up. Just cant seem to light the darn stuff. My hand gets too hot holding the metal I have to put it down. I guess I need to grind on some magnesium, I heard dipping it on water helps, any advise?