That's the thing with these firmware updates, it seems you keep trading off one problem for another which can be seen by the amount of versions they have for the D180 and I'm sure the Skyview has plenty as well.
Bob --
I don't agree with your assessment of your trim display situation. Being an avid daily reader here on the forums for the last 7 years, I can't remember reading about a D180 software revision causing flaky trim display indications. However, I have read numerous posts where intermittent trim displays have ultimately been attributed to a wiring/connector issue and in a few instances the trim servo unit itself. Although I have a SkyView, I can honestly say I have not seen a Dynon software revision for the SkyView cause any major disruptions in the SkyView's functionality .... in fact, it has been just the opposite.
I have to agree with Jim on this one, removing the trim indication from the D180 display and not looking into the root cause of the problem is not the solution, nor in the best interest of safety ... which we should all be striving for.
Suggest beginning your trouble shooting by either looking at the connector on the back of the D180 or looking first at the tail cone which is easier to access ... so I would start there.
The trim wiring connections at the tail cone have been notorious for developing issues like the ones you mention or the trim motor not moving. (As a side note, the newer RV-12's use a different (much better) connector at this location which you can retrofit to if you find this location to be the culprit). Have somebody GENTLY move the wires around a little while you monitor the D180 and see if the display locks up nice and solid and then can be made flaky by moving the wire(s) at the connector at the tail cone. You may want to actually verify solid voltages at the trim motor side of the connector at the tail cone since it is really easy to do so. The white/blue wire should have a solid 5 volts measured to ground (this voltage comes from the D180 so if it is not rock solid follow the wiring back to the D180). The white/green wire is the actual trim position sense wire and the voltage on it will vary from a low voltage to close to 5 volts depending on the position of the trim motor ... however, the voltage should be constant when the trim motor is not moving. Operating the trim motor will change the voltage higher or lower depending on direction of motor movement ... but when stopped, the voltage should be rock solid. The white/orange wire is ground, to check that, switch the meter to the ohms scale you should read a very low resistance to air-frame ground. If the 5 volts on the white/blue wire is found to be solid but the there is an issue with bouncing voltages on the white/green wire (on the trim motor side of the connector) the trim motor assembly is your culprit (or a bad crimp on the pin for the white/green wire). If all the above checkouts OK, check the white/green wire on the tail cone side of the connector ... if the voltages are bouncing around the pins at the connector are the issue.
If the connector in the tail cone checks out OK, I would suggest removing the connector from the back of the D180 and check to make sure the pins associated with power to the trim unit and the position signal on GP3 are tight in the connector with no corrosion and don't easily push back if a little pressure is placed on them. Obviously this connector needed to be removed to send your D180 in for the upgrade so this connector would be the next best place to look for your trim issue. If removing, checking and reinserting the connector does not fix your issue and the 5 volts was rock solid at the tail cone, I would remove the connector's shell and have somebody slowly move the associated trim wire EMS-37/23 and see if there is any change on your display. Take a voltage reading from pin EMS-37/23 to ground. Whatever the voltage reading is, it should be rock solid ... then move the trim motor up or down ... as the motor moves, you will see the voltage on this pin change wherever you stop the motor the voltage on this pin should remain steady. If it is not, you have a bad connector pin between the tail cone and the D180 connector.
If the voltages on EMS-37/23 & are rock solid at the connector then there is either an issue with the connector on back of the D180 unit or an internal issue inside the D180.
Hope you find the above helpful.
And PLEASE ... don't fly with the trim indicator removed from your D-180 display. Because, even though you may know how to get around the trim display issue, that doesn't mean at some point in the future somebody else may need to fly your airplane and unknowingly become another NTSB statistic.
Good luck with your troubleshooting.