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cutting canopy

uk_figs

uk_figs

Well Known Member
Friend
Started cutting the canopy (not the big cut yet) and my compressor is running out of steam driving the die grinder ( 5hp belt drive and 26 gal tank), I tried a cut-off tool which was even worse. I managed to make one cut with my dremel but it got really hot in the process.
Any tips about how others approached this? :confused:
 
Try your drill

uk_figs said:
Started cutting the canopy (not the big cut yet) and my compressor is running out of steam driving the die grinder.
Click to expand...

I am just finishing up the fwd canopy installation on my -7 tipper. I'd read on someone's website that they prefferred using their pneumatic drill with the Van's wheels chucked... more torque and less air required. Try it on some scrap. I ended up prefering the die grinder but my compressor has lot's of umpfh.
 
Slower tool speed

Dave,

If you are melting your way through the canopy, you are running your tool too fast. Die grinders tend to run very fast. If your cut-off tool has a teasing trigger, you can try cutting at a slower speed ,though this will give you lower torque as well.

I used a cutoff tool with 5 hp compressor (60 gal tank), supplying about 11 cfm. I teased the trigger to go slower. That worked for me. You are looking to make the cut without any melting.

If you are running out of air fast, then you may want to try a variable speed drill. Get an adapter to drive the disks, and using a slow speed setting.
 
I just did my big cut.

I had the same issues with my too-small compressor. I should have spent another couple hundred $$ and got a real grown up sized compressor.

On my canopy, I used a Dremel tool at WOT and made several (2-4) passes along the cut line to get all the way through. Turned out well. It was 105 here in Tucson that day (and in the shop... no A/C out there) so the plastic was about half melted through before I started.

Getting ready to glue it all together now.

Jim
RV-7A slider
Starting to look like a plane!!
 
I have an old compressor on wheels. When I cut the canopy and the compressor started running, I would stop cutting until it stopped. If I didn't, the compressor motor fuse would pop. Just go slow. You need to do that anyway to keep everything lines up.

Cb nank

Western KY. RV7A, canopy
 
I had good luck using a cutting disc and arbor chucked in my air drill. It turns slower with more torque, and seems to use less air. On the downside, it takes two hands to hold it steady, so you either need a helper or else a good way to stabilize the canopy while cutting.

mcb
 
Go electrical!

The best way (IMHO) is to make cuts in acrylic in one quick fluent motion to get a smooth line without (dangerous) nicks. The pneumatic tools just did not have the power for this and the compressor went out of steam. So instead I used a verrry brutal Electric Angle grinder with the Van's disks. Looks, sounds and feels very rude but steady your nerves and your hands and it goes perfectly. The actual BIG CUT took just two minutes (without breathing) See more details on: http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4689 and before and after.
Good luck!
 
We use a 3 h.p. electric driven 14 cfm 30 gallon receiver.

Used a die grinder and Van's wheels.

It was the only time that the compressor ran flat out and got water in the traps - it used a LOT of air, but as others have said, by using the trigger wisely, you can help a lot. Let the compressor rest now and then and don't be in too mch of a hurry, support the canopy well and you should be fine.

I did one orientation run across the canopy, then went through at full depth letting the edge of the die grinder support the cutting edge - ensures a straight cut with a neat finish.

We did the whole canopy (7 tip up) in about 4 hours from start, through big cut to neaten off - I reckon another day will be spent with fit and finish and we will be ready to glue.
 
Let us know..

rvtach said:
I had the same issues with my too-small compressor. I should have spent another couple hundred $$ and got a real grown up sized compressor.

Getting ready to glue it all together now.

Jim
RV-7A slider
Starting to look like a plane!!
Click to expand...
Let us konw how the glue thing works out :D :D
 
I've just finished most of the cutting on the canopy and had no problem using the cutting wheel supplied with my cheap die grinder and a compressor that is exactly as the one cited here. It's not the compressor.

I suspect those who run into problems are trying to cut the canopy with one pass. Bad idea. It'll REALLY heat up the plexi and it'll bind the cutting wheel.

The best way to do this, in my opinion, is to concentrate on about a 4 or 5 inch area (I did this because I like to duct tape the parts together every 4 inches. I made an initial line in the plexi with light pressure and then repeated up to 6 times before I cut through.

Yes, the compressor has to work hard, but I let that work in my favor. It forced me to stop and wait a bit (but not long), tape up my work, clean off the plexi dust and vacuum up around the area.

With all the cuts I made, I kept waiting for the problems like this that I've heard described over the years, and I never encountered it once.
 
Last edited:
I AGREE

Rene Bubberman said:
The best way (IMHO) is to make cuts in acrylic in one quick fluent motion to get a smooth line without (dangerous) nicks. The pneumatic tools just did not have the power for this and the compressor went out of steam. So instead I used a verrry brutal Electric Angle grinder with the Van's disks. Looks, sounds and feels very rude but steady your nerves and your hands and it goes perfectly. The actual BIG CUT took just two minutes (without breathing) See more details on: http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4689 and before and after.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
I agree with Rene. Try the Vans disks in a small electric angle grinder. It really works well.

Fin 9A
 
When I cut mine, I corralled it with boards on my table so it wouldn't splay out during cutting. I then made 1-2" dotted cuts along my cut line. Once I was all the way across, I connected the dots. This will help prevent it from cracking. Once it is all cut, dress the edges with a dremmel 1/2" sanding drum and finish with fine emery cloth on a sanding block. Mine came out nice and smooth like I had it polished.

Once you cut it, you may note that it no longer lines up where you may have thought it would. This is due to the fact that most cuts are made before the canopy actually reaches the finished position (usually about an inch above the roll bar). I mounted each piece, with the screws that eventually permanently mount it, one at a time and remarked the line where I wanted it to finish. In my case it was the center of the roll bar (tipup). I then sanded it back to the line and polished it up. Came out with a 1/16" gap from top to bottom.

Hope this helps,

Roberta

canopy9fd0.jpg
 
I have a Roto-Zip. It could probably cut it OK, but you need to guide it. It tends to wander a bit without some steady support. I just used my die grinder and the wheel that Van's sends along. That 3" wheel helps keep the cut fairly straight. This is a long, slow, putzy job. Be patient. Slow and steady truly wins this race.

Roberta
 
Cutting canopy

Well thanks everyone for all the tips, as it happens while I was pondering what to do I realized per the last poster that I in fact have a rotozip tool which is a lot more powerful than the Dremel, I thought I would try it with the metal cutting disk and it worked like a champ. It made a clean cut straight across with no problems and a fairly clean finish. As it is also powerful it does not sag during the cutting process.I also found it easier to handle than the die cutter or the Dremel and you can adjust the cutting end angle to suit the particular cut.
I finished the edges with a belt sander first and then a 400 grit palm orbital sander similar to Matts RV 7 Project Blog http://www.rv7blog.com/ which also worked out well.

So far everything looks OK just have to do the finish cuts above the side rails and trim the rear
 
which rotozip / bit?

Hi Dave - can you post a picture of the tool / bit that you used? Then I know what to ask Santa for Christmas!!

Thanks!
 
rotozip

Dave
If you go to my web site there is a picture in the fuselage section of the photo gallery dated 8/19. (I cannot seem to figure out how to post embedded pictures)
 
I saw a video a while back showing a builder using an electric Makita rotary cut-oof tool to cut his canopy. I used the Bosch roto tool with the 90 degree adapter and the supplied Bosch metal cutting disk. It worked better than the Bosch ceramic cutting disk. The hole in Vans disk was too smalll to fit the Bosch arbor. The tool sells for $99.00 at Lowes. It cuts canopies like butter in one pass. My old Skil belt sander and Avery edge scraper finished the edges nicely.

Steve
 
you tube

I saw a demonstration on utube about cutting the canopy. Don't remember who did it but it was listed about three weeks ago. Hope this helps.
 
MAY NOT OPEN....

robertahegy said:
When I cut mine, Came out with a 1/16" gap from top to bottom.

Hope this helps,

Roberta

canopy9fd0.jpg
Click to expand...

On a hot day, the canopy will expand and you might not be able to open or close your canopy. :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
data points

i did mine with a 90 deg. air drill (blue point brand)
vans disc.
i did it alone
i always had it tapped on both sides of the cut
on a cage board/jig .
i had to turn it upside down on foam and hold it with one hand and cut with the other hand.(dont try this it was stupid but then god looks out for the stupid :eek: ) did this many times and no problems.
tried the air grinder thought it was more difficult.
my brother argues the opposite. :rolleyes: however both of us now have cut canopys.
 
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