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Cowl mounted cooling system

Brantel

Well Known Member
Benefactor
Anyone flying yet with the new cowl mounted radiator and oil cooler design?

If so, how has it been getting the cowl on and off without scratching it?

have you come up with any tricks to make the process of removal and reinstalling easier and safer for the paint?
 
I am. Since installing the cowl-mounted radiators, I’ve only pulled the bottom cowling once. It was challenging (especially with the 3-blade prop), but was most easily done by deforming it side to side a bit. Would be much easier with two sets of hands. My plane isn’t painted yet - I’m trying to refine my technique before that happens.
 
We have one of the first cowl mounted radiator kits on our build. This worked for us: Attach the radiator to the lower cowl and then install it. Now adjust the two support cables. Do that with the bolts in the gearcase that fasten the eyelets. Rotate the eyelets until the cable is taut, and tighten the bolt. On ours. that positioned the eyelets at 90 degrees instead of facing straight down. This compensates for the cables being too long as supplied. Now, use zip ties at other strategic locations on the assembly to more or less hold it from moving around when you remove the cowl, leaving the radiator assembly on the airplane of course. With the cowl removed, install the hoses, but leave the constant tension clamps off of the radiator end for now so that you can make adjustments. Adjust hose lengths and positions to keep the assembly in the position. Remove the temporary zip ties. Reinstall the cowl. It should go on without much fuss because the radiator is now hanging there in the right position. Make any further hose adjustments as needed in case they are still trying to push the radiator out of position. Once the hoses are adjusted just right, the assembly will be positioned so that it aligns well with the cowl. Mark and index the hose locations. Then you can disconnect each hose from the radiator, install the clamps, and put the hose back exactly as it was. Also make sure the oil cooler lines are not twisted and applying pressure to the assembly. A set of hose clamp pliers really helps.

What not to do:
Install cowl with radiator assembly. Install cables with eyelets pointed down as per instructions. Remove cowl. Install hoses per instructions with the specified lengths, and clamp. Reinstall cowl - what you'll get is a radiator assembly that aligns poorly with the cowl. You'll have a heck of a time fighting the Camloc fasteners and overall fit. You'll scratch up the radiator paint before you give up.
 
I think the cables are probably supplied long to allow for engine movement.
Even though the Rotax is pretty smooth, it does shake around a bit. Particularly during startup and shutdown.
High powered slow flight at high AOA also caused quite a bit of lateral movement of the engine because of P factor.
 
I think the cables are probably supplied long to allow for engine movement.
Even though the Rotax is pretty smooth, it does shake around a bit. Particularly during startup and shutdown.
High powered slow flight at high AOA also caused quite a bit of lateral movement of the engine because of P factor.

Good point. Once all of the hoses were connected and final fit was dialed in, we made sure there was some slack in the cables.
 
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