Countersink bits & Microstop

[AlinNS]

Just received my tool kit from Cleavelands. Well packed and everything in order.

I didn't pay close enough attention to what I ordered for countersinks (three flutes), and the microstop (the cheaper one, not notched). I got their catalogue with the order and that was when I noticed the upgraded microstop.

Having now checked everything over, I think that the zero flute countersinks(with the hole) and the more expensive notched microstop would have been better.

It's not worth the hassle to return the items and it was my error.

Anybody used both types of cutters and micrsostops? Is it worth ordering the options that I didn't buy the first time?

By the way, the folks at Cleavelands were a pleasure to deal with.

Any advice welcome.

 

[BigD]

the no-flute bit with the hole is usually used for deburring, while the three- blade cutters with the nipple tip are used for countersinking, the tip matching the size of the hole so the countersink stays centered. As far as countersink cages go, I like the notched ones better, but I have both and still have to do a test piece for depth before going to work, regardless of which one I'm using. More than one is nice to keep each set up for a different size hole, like a #30 and a #40.

==dave==

 

[David Paule]

I like the notched cages (haven't tried the non-notched ones) and recommend replacing the three-fluted countersink cutters with the single-flute ones, which don't chatter. You can get them with pilots.

I've used both and can't see why the three-fluted ones are even sold.

I have a 1/4" non-piloted single-flute cutter in a Black and Decker screw gun and it's good for countersinking, used sparingly. Used non-sparingly it countersinks nicely for the NAS1097AD3 "oops" rivets which work so well for attaching nutplates.

Dave