What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Correct torque for canopy screws?

A

ao.frog

Well Known Member
Hi.

I'm about to begin installing the canopy on the frame and wondering what torque to use on the screws'n nuts holding the canopy? (the AN507-6R8 screws and the AN365-632 nuts, DWG 48, posn C9)

They can't be torqued to the same value as other screws?

The manual only says to "install all screws, washers and nuts" (page 9-8)

Or is it something I've missed??

Regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
RV-7 finishing/wiring
 
My suggestion

CAUTION PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.:eek:

My thought would be to tighten them only tight enough so that you could still rotate the screw and nut assembly with some friction being felt.

The goal is to fully clamp with as little distortion as possible.

My other suggestion.

CAUTION PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.:eek:

De-burr the holes in the plexiglass first.

EXPERIMENT WITH SCRAPS!;)
 
Aircraft Spruce catalog describes how to do it, in their introduction at the start of the plexiglass section. Basically it says screw until snug and then back off (I think it said 1/2-1 turn, or something like that). Definitely torqueing them down to full spec for a #6 screw is not the way to go. So long as the screws hold the sandwich together, you're fine. Remember, the nyloc nuts will alway be in plain site. If the nylocs are backing off at all, you'll notice it when you see fewer threads showing on some and not others. Again, though, check the ACS catalog for the procedure.
 
well

i tightened them down while watchin a flourescent ligh reflection on them as soon as they started to distort/deflect, i backed off till no distortion was evident. IMHO if you leave them distorted they could crack at any time a vibe goes through them.
YMMV.
 
OK, I'm probably going to show my stupidity here, but here goes anyway.

Why isn't there more chipping on the edge of the tip-ups? Because there's a 1/8" gap below the canopy frame on the sides, isn't most of the weight supported actually by the plex itself along the rollbar? Isn't there flexing that happens between the edge and the screws?
 
that

rv9av8tr said:
Actually, AS catalog says to take them "snug" then back off 1/4 turn.
Click to expand...

is about where mine end up.;)
as far as why doesnt the edge crack/chip, well i suppose the entire edge supports the weight and not a single concentrated point. the load is spread out over the entire roll bar, if the roll bar was constructed properly . but ive seen lots that dip in the middle so they can get the width dimension, just like the 725 rails canted out at the bottom to make the side canopy skin flush with the side skin. ive also noted the bulk of builders that ive looked at their build log have narrowed the roll bar by 1/8 of and inch. i only sanded the second one. the first one was a touch to narrow and the second was about a 32nd to wide. i did have to shim between the roll bar and the plexi so as not to distort the plexi. or "pull it down".
now i see why lots of folks build twice. these little rookie mistakes get to them.....mine wont bother me ;-)
 
Last edited:
Thanks!

Hi folks!

Thanks for all the good advices!
The bubble is now installed accordingly.

Now to the fabrication of the dreaded fiberglass fairing in the bubble front... wish me luck.... :)

Regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
RV-7 finishing/wiring
 
dont sweat it

ao.frog said:
Hi folks!

Thanks for all the good advices!
The bubble is now installed accordingly.

Now to the fabrication of the dreaded fiberglass fairing in the bubble front... wish me luck.... :)

Regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
RV-7 finishing/wiring
Click to expand...

this is easier than what you just did. by far. pre cut all your strips and practice laying them all up at once. ive done it twice so far and think i could make a living doin it.:D good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top