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Control Stick Too Tall?

D

Doug Rohrer

Well Known Member
I bought and installed the optional CS-00008T-L control stick for the pilot's side of my RV-14A build. It seems to me the grip is uncomfortably high, as it it added onto the top of the standard stick instead of sliding partly down onto it. The top of the grip is at about the bottom of my G3X screen, but it does not hit the panel because of the internal stops. I don't have my seat pads yet, so I can't really sit in the plane at the correct height to conform this, but it just does not look right. I am thinking about removing 1.5" from the bottom of the stick, but this involves depinning the 12 cavity micro-molex plug, which I cannot do. Any comments from those who have gone before me?
 

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Haha this timing is funny, Mike and I are discussing this very thing on our build. Likely will cut the sticks some.

On the molex front, you are probably best off just buying new connectors and pins. Here's part numbers from Mouser to help.


43025-1200
Molex Headers & Wire Housings
US HTS:8538906000 ECCN:EAR99 COO:CN 2 2

43020-1200
Molex Headers & Wire Housings
US HTS:8538906000 ECCN:EAR99 COO:CN 2 2

43030-0040
Molex Headers & Wire Housings
US HTS:8536904000 ECCN:EAR99 COO:US 20 20

43031-0023
Molex Headers & Wire Housings
US HTS:8536904000 ECCN:EAR99 COO:CN 20 20
 
Just doing the same thing with the same grips. I removed from the top of the stick . Removing from the bottom might remove seat pad clearances. You will also need drill the holes for the two thru bolts along with the wire pass on hey hole. Removing from the top you need to deal with the radius bends which interfere with installing the grip bushing. Quite a lot of work either way you go.
 
Just my opinion, but you might want to leave things alone until after you have your seat bottoms. Depending on their thickness, you may find it to be ok. I did not cut my stick, top or bottom, and fly with my arm on my leg. The grip height is just about perfect. YMMV
 
Controls

Move the sticks toward the control quadrant. Pull the throttle and Mixture. I plan to wait till after final rigging then see how much needs to be cut to clear.
 
If it's like the 7 you can cut the top of the stick without taking the wires out of it, but you have to be careful.

Cut it with a tubing cutter like you use for fuel line. It takes a while, but it will cut through. Don't use your good one, the steel stick will really dull the cutting wheel. Slip a thin piece of curved stainless shim stock or equivalent into the cut off chunk to protect the wiring and cut it long ways with an abrasive disk in a dremmel. You can either pry is apart enough to get the wire bundle out or just cut two longways slits to spit it in half.
 
Just finished aligning ailerons and elevator on the 14. We have the same stick problem but our stick is hitting a switch on the far left when full forward and full left. If one is flying this airplane and, in this stick position, the plane would be in an attitude I really cannot imagine anyone recovering.

I am considering using a tube bender to slightly bend the bottom bend on the stick just enough to get the top of the stick to clear the switch. Although, I think I am going to wait until all interior is in place and evaluate the situation then.

You might consider this option. I think it may be better than cutting the stick.
 
I built and am flying an RV-9A where I shortened the straight stick using the tubing cutter method on the top successfully. This will not work on the -14 stick because it is bent near the top and the grip has an internal plug an inch deep that stops just before the bend. I considered cutting the micro-molex plug off and repinning a new one, but I believe I would need a special tool to crimp the pins. Correct? Has anyone taken this grip apart to see what it would take to disconnect the wires at this end?
 
Give Kevin a call at Tosten Mfg. Advertiser on VAF home page. I’m sure he’ll have some suggestions to resolve your issue. Below is a link for the extraction tool from Steinair and if you call they have a video on how to use it . They sell the crimp tool, housings and pins if you decide to snip them off.
https://www.steinair.com/product/molex-extractor-tool/
 
RVbySDI said:
Just finished aligning ailerons and elevator on the 14. We have the same stick problem but our stick is hitting a switch on the far left when full forward and full left. If one is flying this airplane and, in this stick position, the plane would be in an attitude I really cannot imagine anyone recovering.

I am considering using a tube bender to slightly bend the bottom bend on the stick just enough to get the top of the stick to clear the switch. Although, I think I am going to wait until all interior is in place and evaluate the situation then.

You might consider this option. I think it may be better than cutting the stick.
Click to expand...

We (2 different 14s) had a similar problem, but it resolved itself once everything was mounted and the travels set properly.
 
Thanks for all the input. It seems that others have had the same concern with this grip. I have decided to wait until I have my seat cushions before doing anything drastic. I am starting to suspect the Tosten grip is installed as low as practical. Cutting the bottom might cause interference with the seat cushion and cutting the top would only gain a fraction of an inch due to the bend in the tube. I will give Tosten a call to see if there are any other options in the meanwhile.
 
Tosten

Doug Rohrer said:
Thanks for all the input. It seems that others have had the same concern with this grip. I have decided to wait until I have my seat cushions before doing anything drastic. I am starting to suspect the Tosten grip is installed as low as practical. Cutting the bottom might cause interference with the seat cushion and cutting the top would only gain a fraction of an inch due to the bend in the tube. I will give Tosten a call to see if there are any other options in the meanwhile.
Click to expand...

I thought Tosten had a 14 specific control column but maybe I'm dreaming.
 
Yeah, a lot of the newer grips extend well above your hand to accommodate all the buttons and switches, making it hard to get them to fit under the panel. I tried installing one and if I shortened the stick to get it under the panel, my hand was too low for comfort. If I adjusted the range to put the stop before it got to the panel, it would hit my gut before it got back to full up elevator. (Your personal ergonomics may be different :) I just went back to the old standard Van's grip which has worked well for 7 years.

Also agree with the OP about disliking the tiny Molex connectors. I replaced both the electric trim connector and the stick connector with Db9's. The Db9 can fit on the existing stick bracket with some modifications (see pic), but the upper shell won't fit under the floor so you need to put a lot of RTV where the wires go into the plug to prevent them moving around. It's worked fine for a long time.

IMG_3179.jpg
 
I talked to Kevin at Tosten and thought I would post what he said. First of all, kudos to Kevin for answering the phone personally on the first ring. I was expecting a recording. He said the stick is as short as it can be given the bends required. He counseled waiting until I get the seat cushions installed before doing anything drastic. The Van's demonstrator -14 uses this stick and grip. If I do any cutting, I would do like Jerry and swap in d-sub connectors in place of the micro-molex plug.
 
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