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Continuous duty vs Crossed contactor

You're going to get a lot of opinions here. The old silver can contactors are pretty old technology. Nothing wrong with that. That level of tech can be found in most any auto parts store ( I see you're in South Africa).

I see more people who are building electrically dependent aircraft using contactors with PWM to save the contactor current load. They also tend to have integrated flyback protection. Ex = Gigavac and Blue Sea technology. May be overkill/not worth the price to you; however, a local supplier for such would probably be a wash in cost after deducting shipping costs. Same with the old tech ones.

You have options. Best of luck

Edit = Sorry, should have been more direct to your question. Make sure the duty cycle (continuous vs intermitant) and current rating is suitable for your application, then you'll have a plethora of better/closer/cheaper options. Interestingly, I didn't see where B&C was explicit about current rating. Once again, you/the OP has plenty of options
 
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From another forum, make sure continuous duty for continuous operation... OR ELSE bad things are in your future


I know first hand that if you try to use a starter solenoid (designed for intermittent duty) in place of the master solenoid(continuous duty), the plane can catch on fire...in flight.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org





As Windy says, if you use the wrong relay, bad 'stuff' happens. A start relay will be marked 'intermittent' or 'int.' and a master relay will be marked 'continuous' or 'cont.' on the label. And either relay can be found with one OR two small terminals, so they can look the same but differ in internal connections.

Web

C'mon Windy, the story! Please??


The *******es at the shop that did the upgrade on my -12 to an O-320 engine, along with replacing the generator with an alternator, installed a master solenoid that they picked up off the hangar floor.

After 10 hrs of engine break-in, I was merrily flying over the mountains east of Ogden on my way to a fly-in, when I started smelling smoke. Hoping the smoke was outside, I opened the window to sniff. The open window drew the smoke forward from the battery box area & filled the cockpit, practically suffocating me. If I’d have had a parachute, the -12 would have been on its own.

Not knowing exactly where the smoke was coming from and trying not to panic, I dove toward the ground as fast as possible, which was the only thing I could remember from pilot training about putting out fires. I spotted a dirt road & a field next to each other and opted for the road at the last minute, since there were a bunch of rocks on the field. It turned out that the road was very short and curvy, but I got landed and stopped without hitting anything. There I was, in the middle of nowhere, with no cell phone signal, on top of a mountain at 8,500 msl, after a fire in the cockpit.

I jumped out of that plane and ran like as if I was being chased by a bear. When I turned around after my escape, I expected the plane to be engulfed in flames, but no, it just sat there. I got brave enough to tiptoe over and open the cowling, expecting to see a charred new engine, but no, the engine was still shiny new.

In the meantime, a friend who had also been flying along to the fly-in in his supercub, landed (in the field, past all the rocks) to see what the delay was all about. I’ll spare all the details, but suffice it to say that by the time we both took off, a Bobcat and a D6 loader both ended up stuck in a mud hole in the process of dragging my -12 over to the field, since the curvy dirt road was too short for takeoff. Had to hand prop the -12, since there was no electrical.

After getting back to the shop that did the work, it was discovered that the (intermittent duty) master solenoid had been fried, burnt the positive cable to the battery, melted the battery, burnt the wooden spacer block above the battery in the battery box, and charred the fuselage stringer in that area. I was lucky.
 
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Hi,

I am planning a dual battery system that is intended to run both batteries as standard. I see BandC sell a Continuous Duty Contactor, and a Crossfeed Contactor. Which is appropriate for my setup, because the way I see it both batteries will be continuous duty and crossfeed.
Links:

B&C S701-1 master contactor is a Stancor/White Rogers 70-902 continuous duty contactor with a diode added externally to suppress the coil flyback spike. A jumper is also added to power the coil from the battery.

B&C S701-2 crossfeed contactor is a Stancor/White Rogers 70-902 continuous duty contactor with three diodes added externally; one to suppress the coil flyback spike and two to power the coil as a crossfeed contactor in Z14.

Ref Z14 at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/

A Stancor/White Rogers 70-902 or Cole Hersee 24059 can be used as a crossfeed contactor in lieu of B&C S701-2 if you add the diodes yourself.

BTW the Stancor/White Rogers 70-902 has plastic overmolding on its feet so longer bolts must be used.

What won't work as a crossfeed contactor is the common Cole Hersee 24115 master contactor because it connects one side of the coil to the battery stud internally. Cole Hersee calls it Three-Stud.
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Marc,

Two standard Master Solenoids, one on each battery, is what you want.

Options include the standard Van’s solenoid:
https://store.vansaircraft.com/master-relay-es-24115.html
Note - you can get these at a much better price.

Another option is the Blue Sea 9012 solenoid:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...=1695326514&sprefix=blue+Sea+so,aps,69&sr=8-3

The advantage using the Blue Sea is once latched, holding current is only 0.13 amps. 10% or so of the standard master solenoid. So two standard solenoid would most likely be the largest continuous load on your battery(s) if you have an alternator failure.

Note - shop around. I got these for less than $100 each on eBay.

Carl
 
Gigavac 80 amp cross feed

Gigavac makes a nice 80 amp compact continuous contactor that I’m using as a cross tie. (Less than 100 bucks) It doesn’t have the internal diode like the larger ones they sell but you’ll need to add 2 diodes anyway to insure you can tap power from each bus. I’d be careful with PWM contactors they could cause radio noise and that would drive me nuts.

By the way pretty sure the Blue Sea is just a rebranded Gigavac.
 
Are there any reasons not to use a circuit breaker for the cross tie in lieu of a contactor?
 
Are there any reasons not to use a circuit breaker for the cross tie in lieu of a contactor?

No one chimed in so I guess I'll step in it. A specific answer can't be giving because we don't know the subject architecture, mission intent, redundancy requirements, isolation preference, etc, etc.....

To your question, the basic answer is "no". Breakers make terrible switches, switch breakers s_ck, and that far into the circuit there probably should already be overload protection for that particular wire. So:

A beefy, high quality switch (not Carlton). This approach is usually advocated by Walt.

A Relay with dual flyback protection as inquired by the OP. Lots of options for this already discussed.

Dual relay back-feeds (as opposed to a crossover) as advocated by C Froelich.

A breaker would be my last choice, even without all things being known.
 
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