Van's Air Force
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connecting wires - wings to fuse
- Thread starter shiney
- Start date
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
IMO, bag all the fittings & use crimp connectors for the big stuff, and soldering with heat shrink tubing for the small wires----when you actually mount the wing. Leave enough wire to pull up past the wing when connected, plus some extra that can be looped for a rewire, should you ever have to pull the wing.
This is less weight, and most likely a better connection.
I went through all the connection stuff too, on one wing and decided against it on the other, after reading many pro's & cons. I ended up cutting several fittings off, when finally mounting the wings permanently. I think the small servo wires (I have an aileron trim servo) have a better connection this way, and I trust my higher amperage heated pitot circuit also, by using a tried and true crimp connector.
BTW--- aircraft style crimp connectors with the additional crimp area over the insulation, are the way to go.
L.Adamson --- RV6A
This is less weight, and most likely a better connection.
I went through all the connection stuff too, on one wing and decided against it on the other, after reading many pro's & cons. I ended up cutting several fittings off, when finally mounting the wings permanently. I think the small servo wires (I have an aileron trim servo) have a better connection this way, and I trust my higher amperage heated pitot circuit also, by using a tried and true crimp connector.
BTW--- aircraft style crimp connectors with the additional crimp area over the insulation, are the way to go.
L.Adamson --- RV6A
FredMagare
Well Known Member
TerminalTown.com has a great locking connector kit with installation tools! Do the wing wiring runs, terminate them at the root with a locking connector, later complete the runs with the connector mate and more wiring runs!
N941WR
Legacy Member
I had planned on using quick connectors but after realizing how little room there is in the wing root area, I elected to bring the wires inside and then use knife connectors for the position and landing lights. The strobe still got quick connectors w/ knife connectors for the shielding wire.
kevinh
Well Known Member
I'd say just go connectorless.
When I built my 7, I kept the wire for the wingtip lights, antennas, autopilot coiled outside the fuse (I built in a one car garage). When it came time to mate the wings (at the airport) it took very little time to pull the wires to the correct location and attach connectors.
It is very unlikely I'll ever be removing the wings, if I do it will be easy to add connectors at the wing root then. In the meantime, I saved the work and weight and I don't need to worry about bad connections in a difficult location.
btw: An EAA friend told me the only way he's ever going to remove his wings is with two appropriately spaced trees.
When I built my 7, I kept the wire for the wingtip lights, antennas, autopilot coiled outside the fuse (I built in a one car garage). When it came time to mate the wings (at the airport) it took very little time to pull the wires to the correct location and attach connectors.
It is very unlikely I'll ever be removing the wings, if I do it will be easy to add connectors at the wing root then. In the meantime, I saved the work and weight and I don't need to worry about bad connections in a difficult location.
btw: An EAA friend told me the only way he's ever going to remove his wings is with two appropriately spaced trees.
Last edited:
Pretty standard
Each wire it runs into the space under the seat, with a bit of slack (technical term is "service loop".
Each wire has a different type of connector or the sex of the connector is unique, IE, you can't connect any of them wrong (plus they are all labeled).
Using AMP crimped (don't scrimp on the crimping tool!) connectors and then put heat shrink over each joint, then used cable ties and anchor blocks to keep everything from shaking around.
The biggies were the NAV/COM antenna wires (I used wingtip antennae), they got a BNC coupler.
I did get lazy with the autopilot wiring and just ran it straight from the servo through the floor and up into the instrument panel. If I ever have to remove a wing, I'll have to split those wires.
YMMV
Each wire it runs into the space under the seat, with a bit of slack (technical term is "service loop".
Each wire has a different type of connector or the sex of the connector is unique, IE, you can't connect any of them wrong (plus they are all labeled).
Using AMP crimped (don't scrimp on the crimping tool!) connectors and then put heat shrink over each joint, then used cable ties and anchor blocks to keep everything from shaking around.
The biggies were the NAV/COM antenna wires (I used wingtip antennae), they got a BNC coupler.
I did get lazy with the autopilot wiring and just ran it straight from the servo through the floor and up into the instrument panel. If I ever have to remove a wing, I'll have to split those wires.
YMMV
tomwebster
Well Known Member
I wired up my wings also without any connectors,
(except for the nav antenna). At 72 hours, I had
to land in a clover field and remove the wings to
bring the plane back to the airport. The wing
wiring in-line connectors were cut off and new
in-line connectors installed when the wings
were remounted. If the wires are marked, and
you leave some extra, the wiring is trivial.
Tom
(except for the nav antenna). At 72 hours, I had
to land in a clover field and remove the wings to
bring the plane back to the airport. The wing
wiring in-line connectors were cut off and new
in-line connectors installed when the wings
were remounted. If the wires are marked, and
you leave some extra, the wiring is trivial.
Tom
Care to say why you had to land in a clover field?
tomwebster
Well Known Member
i needed to land because of severe engine vibration.
#3 cylinder left the case when a rod bolt failed.
The engine builder isn't one of the big shops, I don't
feel he could have prevented the failure and I don't
want to give out his name.
By the way, the cowling held the cylinder in and
only the joining hinge needed to be replaced.
Other than two rows of bare rivets, you couldn't
tell that anything happened.
Also, I replaced two baffle pieces in the right rear
corner and had the exhaust repaired. No other
damage other than some marks on the bottom of
one main and the nose wheel pant. The mains left
a mark in the clover for about 100 yards and the nose
wheel made a mark for about 40 yards. It was soft and
slightly up hill
It is one strong airplane and I feel I was truly blessed.
i've got about three hours on a new warranty engine.
Tom
#3 cylinder left the case when a rod bolt failed.
The engine builder isn't one of the big shops, I don't
feel he could have prevented the failure and I don't
want to give out his name.
By the way, the cowling held the cylinder in and
only the joining hinge needed to be replaced.
Other than two rows of bare rivets, you couldn't
tell that anything happened.
Also, I replaced two baffle pieces in the right rear
corner and had the exhaust repaired. No other
damage other than some marks on the bottom of
one main and the nose wheel pant. The mains left
a mark in the clover for about 100 yards and the nose
wheel made a mark for about 40 yards. It was soft and
slightly up hill
It is one strong airplane and I feel I was truly blessed.
i've got about three hours on a new warranty engine.
Tom
RV7Guy
Well Known Member
Connectors
I used terminal blocks under the pilot seat. One was for electrical such as lights from the wings and tail. I ran one power wire forward for each item. Lights were locally grounded. Another T strip was used for the stick wiring which included trim, radio flip flop and AP disconnect.
I used a Molex connector at the root and again at the tip for easy of removal. Also used BnC connectors for the antennas at the root and tip. As someone noted there isn't much room at the root for connectors so you have to plan things out. After connecting I used that silcone tape stuff to wrap everything.
Everything works great. I can take the wing tips off easy to inspect. Also made things easy when I broke everything down for paint.
I used terminal blocks under the pilot seat. One was for electrical such as lights from the wings and tail. I ran one power wire forward for each item. Lights were locally grounded. Another T strip was used for the stick wiring which included trim, radio flip flop and AP disconnect.
I used a Molex connector at the root and again at the tip for easy of removal. Also used BnC connectors for the antennas at the root and tip. As someone noted there isn't much room at the root for connectors so you have to plan things out. After connecting I used that silcone tape stuff to wrap everything.
Everything works great. I can take the wing tips off easy to inspect. Also made things easy when I broke everything down for paint.
dan
Well Known Member
There's plenty of room for NO CONNECTORS. And then you don't have any failure points, terminals to corrode (moisture DOES get in the wing root area), etc.
