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Confusing Instructions

M

meadeduck

Well Known Member
If any of you guys get as confused as me, look at page 22-02. I had to take the page inside and type each sentence as a 'step'. (It's what I used to teach my LD students.) I misriveted a bunch of platenuts because I 'cross-read' some of the steps. Anyway, it makes it a lot easier to read. This was the most confusing page that we've encountered thus far.
Meade and George
#16
 
Pg 22-02

I just got started on this page late today. I just sent a note off to Van's asking about the 10 ( ten ) CS holes indicated in figure 3. My F-1201-C Fwd plate has only 8 holes CS. What does yours have in it ? ? ? ?

I also agree, the instructions need to be read carefully.

John Bender
Iowa
 
JBPILOT said:
I just got started on this page late today. I just sent a note off to Van's asking about the 10 ( ten ) CS holes indicated in figure 3. My F-1201-C Fwd plate has only 8 holes CS. What does yours have in it ? ? ? ?

I also agree, the instructions need to be read carefully.

John Bender
Iowa
Click to expand...

My page 22-02 also showed the 10 CS4-4 rivets in the firewall. When I called VANS about it, they said to go ahead and dimple the lower two holes as shown in fig. 3, and countersink the corresponding holes on the foreward flanges of the 1217A tunnel ribs. I dimpled the two holes in the firewall by drilling a #12 hole in each of two blocks of hardwood. I then inserted the male dimple die in one block, and the female die in the other block. I put the male die block, face up on the workbench and layed the firewall ( foreward side down) so that the male die was sticking up through the hole to be dimpled. I placed the female die over it, and rapped the wood block it was inserted in, a couple of times with a hammer. Voila! Perfect dimple and no damage to the dies. Steve
 
8 CS holes or 10 CS holes

Hey Steve,

Interesting. I got a written answer from Van's TODAY. They said 8 were needed, the picture is wrong indicating 10 ! ! ! ! ! !

I like the way you did it, I hope I am not sorry later. I have a problem with the FWD 1201 plate anyway, and had to stop. The cooler stiffener holes are off a bunch on one end - are yours ? ? ? ? My lowest set of holes are maybe 1/4" inset from all the others ? ? ? ? ?

John Bender
 
All of us that were in the first 20 fuselage kits had the same problem with the coolant stiffener holes- use a couple of flat squeezer dies to flatten the dimples and then cleco on the stiffener and use it as a guide to redrill the holes in their proper position- then re-dimple. My firewall now has the ten dimples for the CS4-4 rivets- just like they told me to do. Sometimes it seems it depends on who you talk to at VANS, as to what guidence you wind up with. Steve
 
The 9th & 10th CS holes

Hey Steve, I looked ahead a few pages, and can't see where they would be required to be CS. Do you know for sure they will need to be CS at some point ? ? ? ? ?

Also, can we assume approval for E-LSA if we modify the FWD Lower Firewall, or did VAN'S say to do it that way ? ? ? ? ? ( in writing ). The other holes can be filled with Sealant ( once I find some ).

This '22' section has been the least favorite so far may I say ! ! !

John Bender
 
Cooler Stiffener

Vans is sending out a new cooler stiffener with the new corner skins. It is machined for the offset holes. It also comes with info for clearance of the stiffener from the rudder pedal.
 
Beyond the FWD Firewall Plate

I moved on to one of the next items, and have another question. The top 'shelf' that attaches to the FWD Lower Firewall. It indicates the two larger nutplates go UNDER the shelf. The dimples are also up. That would not leave the top surface smooth ( the reason for the nutplates being underneath it would seem ). Are the dimples wrong ? ? ? ? ? ?

John Bender
 
JBPILOT said:
I moved on to one of the next items, and have another question. The top 'shelf' that attaches to the FWD Lower Firewall. It indicates the two larger nutplates go UNDER the shelf. The dimples are also up. That would not leave the top surface smooth ( the reason for the nutplates being underneath it would seem ).



Are the dimples wrong ? ? ? ? ? ?

John Bender
Click to expand...

Yes

They need to be redimpled the other direction (this works just fine since the stainless steel is very malleable).
 
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