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Condition of an engine in long term storage

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Phlyan Pan

Well Known Member
This is a continuation of my intro thread. I have a friend who's grandfather has an RV kit in his basement unopened. There is an engine included, also never opened from its shipping crate. The grandfather is starting to show signs of some form of mild dementia so getting details out of him is really tough.

Based on what details I've gotten so far, it seems like it might be an 0-320. My question is...A: how do I determine for sure that it is that engine, and B: Being that it's been in a crate for 15 ish years...how do I determine its condition/history? Obviously if it's used, it should hopefully have logs with it, correct? Or, if it's new...how do I know if it's still in new shape? Thanks!
 
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You should be able to find the logbook for the engine someplace, but if nothing else there's a data plate on the right side of the engine block under the cylinders where you'll find the engine model number and serial number.

As for condition, that's a little tougher. Your best bet is to look at the logbook but if you can't find it you may need to have an A&P borescope the cylinders.
 
For a thorough exam....

...a cylinder needs to come off. You can then use a flashlight to examine the cam lobes for rust, crank for the same and look up into the other cylinders.

Best,
 
pierre smith said:
...a cylinder needs to come off. You can then use a flashlight to examine the cam lobes for rust, crank for the same and look up into the other cylinders.

Best,
Click to expand...

Is that something I can legally do as a non-A&P? I'm fairly handy with mechanical stuff but all of my experience is on cars. I wouldn't want to do something that might detract from the value of the engine.
 
If it's a certificated engine and you want to keep it so, you need to have an A&P do it. I would really recommend that in any case. An A&P knows what he is looking for. Aircraft engines are very simple but they are quite different from automotive engines.
 
One thing to watch for

If you do remove the cylinder yourself you should probably get the service manual which has a disassembly procedure. You can damage the case half where the cylinder seals if you're not careful by letting the connecting rod fall against the case and indent it. Make sure you support the connecting rod as you pull the cylinder off and the piston wants to fall down. That is, if the engine is horizontal. With the engine vertical attached to an engine rebuild stand, this won't happen.
 
Update:

Upon realizing some of the issues involved...I will not be doing any work on this engine myself. Too much liability for an engine that isn't my own.

Second portion of the update: we were able to get a picture of the shipping crate with a serial number on it. After about 20 minutes on the phone with Lycoming, it turns out the engine is an IO-360-A1A rather than the original assumed O-320. We're going to look into finding the logbooks and whatnot next...then maybe start looking for an A&P to inspect it.

This is quite an interesting process. I feel like a detective :) Thanks everyone for the help so far. I'm sure more questions will come.
 
If this is a new properly pickled engine, you might have a real gem there!!!

On the other hand, if it was a used motor that was ran hard and put up wet, you might have a pile of junk....
 
Actually the environment in which the engine was stored has MUCH to do with the condition. An engine can be stored here in North Texas for many years without damage if it is in a place where the temperature and humidity have a relatively small "swing". In a basement in New York, I don't know!
 
Just as an update in case anyone was wondering on this one...we opened up the crate and got the log book out along with some other paperwork.

The engine has about 1200 TT on it with 0 SMOH from Lycoming. It was also rebuilt as a 180 hp AEIO-360-B2F at that time. Unfortunately, this was in 1992 and the engine has sat in its crate in a basement since that date. According to Lycoming and Penn Yan, this means it will need a full overhaul since it's over the 12 year mark which could run anywhere between $20k and $25k.

I've made an offer on it based on the core value of the engine (according to Penn Yan) so hopefully I'll hear back soon and can find this engine a good home.

Thanks again all for the help.
 
Phlyan Pan said:
Just as an update in case anyone was wondering on this one...we opened up the crate and got the log book out along with some other paperwork.

The engine has about 1200 TT on it with 0 SMOH from Lycoming. It was also rebuilt as a 180 hp AEIO-360-B2F at that time. Unfortunately, this was in 1992 and the engine has sat in its crate in a basement since that date. According to Lycoming and Penn Yan, this means it will need a full overhaul since it's over the 12 year mark which could run anywhere between $20k and $25k.

I've made an offer on it based on the core value of the engine (according to Penn Yan) so hopefully I'll hear back soon and can find this engine a good home.

Thanks again all for the help.
Click to expand...

FWIW, my brand new 1996 Lycoming was at it's 12 year mark, when it first flew in 2008. The engine had been pickled by Lycoming, and I live in a state with much dryer humidity levels. At the eight year mark, all cylinders were pulled by A&P's for a wrist pin AD check. This engine still looked brand new inside, without a hint of rust. It has now performed flawlessly for about 150 hrs, uses little oil, and has good compression checks. But as stated previously, much depends on the location and type of storage. If the storage area was well air conditioned (refrigerant type), then even a high humidity area "might" be okay. It will just have to be checked to really know. I wouldn't use the 12 year mark as an absolute standard for an engine teardown.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
My O-320 was 13 years in the Lycoming box as shipped, factory inhibited. The plastic bag remained sealed with about 6 large bags of dessicant inside. It did remain stored in a mostly warm dry location.

I discussed the possible condition with Bart Lalond (Aerosport) who suggested just pulling the lower plugs and checking the top of the cylinder walls - since this was where the oil was likely to have drained and where any condensation may occur.

I did this check- absolutely bright as new steel - no hint of rust. I also pulled one of the magnetos off to install the oil pressure fitting - I looked carefully inside the accessory case and didn't find any hint of corrosion there either.

As for the 12 years - I think this should start from time of installation - very few items are likely to deteriorate inside the engine especially without having been run. Besides the SL is a little ambiguous about the actual start date.

I did have the carby rebuilt with the new Tempest float kit and had the seals replaced but this was probably not absolutely necessary. I also purchased a replacement fuel pump thinking that the diaphragm might have deteriorated - the original seems to be fine so the new one is still in the box.

Doug Gray
RV-6 VH-UDG 10.5hours...
 
Unfortunately there is no plastic wrap in the crate and no desiccant. I will be reselling it if the family accepts the offer. I do have a potential buyer in mind (a friend) so I will leave it up to him as to what needs to happen to the engine.

If for some reason that person decides they aren't interested, I'll be reselling it on the open market. Would it be worthwhile to have it inspected before trying to sell it?
 
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